Original Glock Parts Vs. "match" Parts

[Dowter]

I'm thinking about getting a glock for Limited Division competition and am considering getting a caspian slide and a match grade barrel.

Has anybody every compared the results of factory glock parts vs. aftermarket parts. I would like to get some quantified number as to how much accurate one is over the other. An inch at 50 yards might be a lot for bullseye, but won't really do anything for me in IPSC.

[ryucasta]

If your on a budget spend your money on a trigger job (1.5 pounds and all factory safeties work) from Charlie Vanek aka gunner5 and some sights like what Dawson Precision currently offers for Glock's. Total Cost for these add ons shouldnt exceed $350.00 with shipping. IMHO, that the Caspian slide is way over rated for a Limited gun and the competition barrels aren’t really necessary.

BTW, I own a plethora of aftermarket barrels for my competition Glock's from Jarvis, Bar-Sto, Briley, and KKM and I also own an Open Glock with a Caspian Slide.

Here's a picture of my Open Glock http://www.handgunneroutlet.net/profiles/P...eOpenGlockB.htm which Tom Novak built for me.

[Custom Glock Racing]

I used to run Caspian slides but they are more trouble than they are worth.

Factory slides work just fine. A great barrel like Bar-Sto or one of the other decent barrels is a good investment but good sights, trigger and respringing the gun are far more important.

[Dowter]

Dowter,

I know you will enjoy reading this:

http://www.montac.com/glock/index.html

Thanks,

That's a good one. The numbers between the KKM barrel and the stock glock barrel were what I was looking for.

With group diameters of 3.1 and 2.7 at 25 yards, I'm looking at point of aim radiuses of 1.55 and 1.35. So at 50 yards, the KKM barrel will get me a whopping .40 inches closer to where the the sights were lined up on.

To me this is negligible accuracy for IPSC.

[Bob Hostetter]

A lot of it depends on what kind of accuracy you are getting with the stock stuff. It is entirely possible to get a stock Glock that groups excellent without any modifications. At that point all you really should be looking at is better sights, and maybe trigger work. Some people also like to use a magwell. Then you can start balancing your springs against your load, and how you like the gun to feel.

If the gun won't group with the stock barrel then you need to look into a replacement barrel. I don't think the aftermarket slide is of value unless you are getting really creative with lightening the slide. The barrel and the fitting of the barrel are where you will gain accuracy.

Glock's are capable of excellent accuracy with a good barrel that is properly fit.

[Matthew_Mink]

Speaking of Glock accuracy, has anyone had any experience with that oversized takedown latch? I have heard it locks up the barrel a little tighter but don't know anyone that has used it. Something to ponder for Dowter's game Glock.

[Joe D]

You really do not have to do a lot to a G35 to make it competitive. I have replaced the sights with a Hi-Viz overmolded front and a Novak low mount rear. Stock spring was replaced with a 13# ISMI and THE tungsten rod. I use a Seattle Slug rather than a regular magwell like THE offers in brass. This is just a personal thing with me as lots of shooters like the THE brass magwell. There are several makers of extended base pads that allow you get 20 rds. into the mags. Trigger jobs are simple with Glocks. I have done well over 100. The trigger pull can be reduced to 2 pounds or less pretty easily. A good competition trigger job should not cost you over $85. Most of the stock parts in a G35 work fine with just a little modification. I have seen some really overpriced trigger jobs out there and no I am not looking for trigger work. I have all I care to do.

The stock barrel is more than accurate enough. We shoot at very, very large targets. My G35s will shoot golf ball size groups at 25 yds.

I tend to take a different approach than some in that I prefer to spend as little as possible to have a gun that will be competitive. I know I probably annoy some of the posters here that sell accessories. That is not my intent, I just like to provide a different perspective that shows what can be done with a Glock by spending very little money. I see shooters try to improve their shooting by spending money on accessories when they would be better served to buy more practice ammo.

If you can only afford to do one thing then have someone do a good trigger job for you, the rest can come latter.

BTW the oversized latch, IMO, is a waste of money.

[MoNsTeR]

I thought the point of aftermarket barrels for .40 Glocks wasn't better accuracy but rather better case support. I mean clearly you could install one to get better accuracy, but I know if I was going to do up a G35 or G24 for Limited I'd swap out the barrel out of KB paranoia alone.

[Joe D]

The KB myth is just that a myth. I have seen 1911s, Sigs, Glocks and HKs all KB. 99% of all KBs are caused by either improper powder charge or bullet set back. I have had several .40 cases split due to reloading them too many times. A .40 loaded to a 168-170 PF will actually expand the case less than some factory loads. I have checked the unsupported portion of fired cases many times and found the unsupported portion to be only .001" larger than the rest of the case.

I would encourage shooters to investigate some of the "urban legends" rather than just parroting something they heard.

There were some defective factory loads that did cause genuine KBs, not the guns fault just a defective case. I don't recall if it was a Federal load or Speer. I personally saw a Sig that had blown up due to the bad case.

[eric nielsen]

I've owned 3 Glocks: 9mm, 10mm, and 40cal. None of them had any problem with brass, multiple reloadings. All were accurate to 1" at 25 yards, or better (I shot them standing).

I think an aftermarket barrel would be a favor more for your 1911 buddies than for yourself. They could shoot your brass with no problems. But now YOU might have problems with brass out of another shooter's Glock.

If your barrel is accurate, I say leave it in there.

[Duane Thomas]

The KB myth is just that a myth.

Gee. I guess when SAAMI lowered the pressure ceiling for .40 S&W, specifically citing KBs in Glocks, they didn't know what they were talking about.

[Joe D]

I guess not.

[Flexmoney]

Moderator hat on:

This thread is about Glock accuracy (please read the original question) with comparison of factory and after-market parts.

If you want to talk Kb's start another thread...or just add to one of the many that are already debated back and forth all over the internet.

Thanks.

[Joe D]

I guess it did drift off of the original subject - sorry.

[Flexmoney]

No problem. A few posts in that direction are/were fine...but, we don't want to whole thread going down that well-beaten path.

MM asked:

Speaking of Glock accuracy, has anyone had any experience with that oversized takedown latch? I have heard it locks up the barrel a little tighter but don't know anyone that has used it.

MM, I don't know of anyone that has used them either. All I remember reading about them is that they are an improvement over stock if the stock part is a bit out of spec. (which is certainly more than possible on a high production part like that).

I don't have any real info on them though, just what I've read.

[PacMan]

I have a Caspian 22 slide and it's cool/different, but that's about it. I used to think that factory Glock sights, specially the front one, are good enough, until I put a Dawson fiberoptic front sight on my G35 (and left the stock adjustable rear alone.) You can spend a minimum $ on a Glock and make it fairly competitive, a good trigger and good front sight will do the job for any Glocks, IMO. Save your money for ammunition.