Rolex Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 How do you break loose the rod in the cylinder- must have red locktite, what type of wrench is used, want to try a Ti cylinder that I have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 If it's red loktited, you have to heat it up to something like 400 degrees. ....just heat it up until it smokes. D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 uummm...you DO KNOW that the extractor rod on all S&W's since the late 50's is a LEFT-HAND thread, right? If you attempt to "Loosen It" the "Conventional" way, you are really just TIGHTENING it!...let me know if this does NOT help!....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 And check the female rod end to see if it cracked when you were tightening it...been there done that..... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41mag Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 How do you break loose the rod in the cylinder- must have red locktite,what type of wrench is used, want to try a Ti cylinder that I have? I use a keyless drill chuck that I removed from an old cordless, works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolex Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 So what do I do? Put it on the drill, put in rev. and hold on?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 It would probably be safer for the threads to hold the drill chuck and cylinder and turn it by hand. Once it turns freely, you can take it out of the drill chuck and undo it the rest of the way with fingertips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intel6 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 I have had one of these for many years and beats vise grips and all the other things people come up with. Extractor rod tool Neal in AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I have had one of these for many years and beats vise grips and all the other things people come up with.Extractor rod tool Neal in AZ Ya, thats what I use too. BTW the threads are reversed so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) That tool is far less expensive than replacing the parts you can screw up using something else. Edited April 8, 2009 by Jaxshooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrooper Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 +1 on the extractor rod tool. It is worth every penny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 First off, there is no need for loctite (of any flavor) on the extractor rod threads. Not blue, and certainly not red. Second, there is no need to pay good money for the Wessinger tool when a drill chuck (as Pat mentioned above) is so much faster and easier to use anyway. You simply chuck the rod in there as deep as you can so the knurling on the rod doesn't get buggered, then (and here's the key) tighten the chuck up very hard so it doesn't slip, then pop a moonclip into the cylinder to give it support, hold the drill in a fixed position and gently turn the cylinder to the right--i.e. the opposite way you would ordinarily turn a fastener to unscrew it. Third, very rarely is there a need for a revolver shooter to take out the extractor rod. Unless there is a problem, leave it the hell alone. There are only two reasons I can think of: to add a shim to reduce endshake, or to replace a bent rod or center pin. If you are not extremely careful, you can dick things up real quick, for example cracking the extractor by overtightening (like Doug mentioned), or bending the rod, or stripping the threads. I can't remember the last time I had the extractor rod out of my 625--in fact, I'm not sure it's ever been unscrewed. Seriously, leave it alone. (Rick, call me if you need any further help, OK?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolex Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 First off, there is no need for loctite (of any flavor) on the extractor rod threads. Not blue, and certainly not red.Second, there is no need to pay good money for the Wessinger tool when a drill chuck (as Pat mentioned above) is so much faster and easier to use anyway. You simply chuck the rod in there as deep as you can so the knurling on the rod doesn't get buggered, then (and here's the key) tighten the chuck up very hard so it doesn't slip, then pop a moonclip into the cylinder to give it support, hold the drill in a fixed position and gently turn the cylinder to the right--i.e. the opposite way you would ordinarily turn a fastener to unscrew it. Third, very rarely is there a need for a revolver shooter to take out the extractor rod. Unless there is a problem, leave it the hell alone. There are only two reasons I can think of: to add a shim to reduce endshake, or to replace a bent rod or center pin. If you are not extremely careful, you can dick things up real quick, for example cracking the extractor by overtightening (like Doug mentioned), or bending the rod, or stripping the threads. I can't remember the last time I had the extractor rod out of my 625--in fact, I'm not sure it's ever been unscrewed. Seriously, leave it alone. (Rick, call me if you need any further help, OK?) I am going to leave it alone- I sold the Ti cylinder to a person doing a job on his gun. See there is a god watching over me! Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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