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S&W 625


Rolex

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uummm...you DO KNOW that the extractor rod on all S&W's since the late 50's is a LEFT-HAND thread, right? If you attempt to "Loosen It" the "Conventional" way, you are really just TIGHTENING it!...let me know if this does NOT help!....mikey357

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How do you break loose the rod in the cylinder- must have red locktite,

what type of wrench is used, want to try a Ti cylinder that I have? :unsure:

I use a keyless drill chuck that I removed from an old cordless, works great.

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It would probably be safer for the threads to hold the drill chuck and cylinder and turn it by hand. Once it turns freely,

you can take it out of the drill chuck and undo it the rest of the way with fingertips.

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First off, there is no need for loctite (of any flavor) on the extractor rod threads. Not blue, and certainly not red.

Second, there is no need to pay good money for the Wessinger tool when a drill chuck (as Pat mentioned above) is so much faster and easier to use anyway. You simply chuck the rod in there as deep as you can so the knurling on the rod doesn't get buggered, then (and here's the key) tighten the chuck up very hard so it doesn't slip, then pop a moonclip into the cylinder to give it support, hold the drill in a fixed position and gently turn the cylinder to the right--i.e. the opposite way you would ordinarily turn a fastener to unscrew it.

Third, very rarely is there a need for a revolver shooter to take out the extractor rod. Unless there is a problem, leave it the hell alone. There are only two reasons I can think of: to add a shim to reduce endshake, or to replace a bent rod or center pin. If you are not extremely careful, you can dick things up real quick, for example cracking the extractor by overtightening (like Doug mentioned), or bending the rod, or stripping the threads.

I can't remember the last time I had the extractor rod out of my 625--in fact, I'm not sure it's ever been unscrewed. Seriously, leave it alone.

(Rick, call me if you need any further help, OK?)

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First off, there is no need for loctite (of any flavor) on the extractor rod threads. Not blue, and certainly not red.

Second, there is no need to pay good money for the Wessinger tool when a drill chuck (as Pat mentioned above) is so much faster and easier to use anyway. You simply chuck the rod in there as deep as you can so the knurling on the rod doesn't get buggered, then (and here's the key) tighten the chuck up very hard so it doesn't slip, then pop a moonclip into the cylinder to give it support, hold the drill in a fixed position and gently turn the cylinder to the right--i.e. the opposite way you would ordinarily turn a fastener to unscrew it.

Third, very rarely is there a need for a revolver shooter to take out the extractor rod. Unless there is a problem, leave it the hell alone. There are only two reasons I can think of: to add a shim to reduce endshake, or to replace a bent rod or center pin. If you are not extremely careful, you can dick things up real quick, for example cracking the extractor by overtightening (like Doug mentioned), or bending the rod, or stripping the threads.

I can't remember the last time I had the extractor rod out of my 625--in fact, I'm not sure it's ever been unscrewed. Seriously, leave it alone.

(Rick, call me if you need any further help, OK?)

I am going to leave it alone- I sold the Ti cylinder to a person doing a job on his gun. See there is a god watching over me! :devil: Thanks all!

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