jst1tym Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Hello All, Just wanted to get the experts opinion on a small problem. I have a Dillon R550b and I basically only reload 9mm, and all my brass is new. I've narrowed the sticking problem down to the powder and case neck resizing die. When I pull down to dump the appropiate powder charge and slightly bell the case mouth, on the up-stroke I have to basically pop the handle upwards to get it to release the case. I've chacked all the other dies one at a time and none of them have this sticking problem, they work smooth as butter. Upon close examination the tip of the die that enters the case mouth shows some slight wear, somewhat like scrapes or minute groves from being pressured into the case mouth. Will lube solve this problem? And if so, how do you prevent the lube from contaminating the powder if used. I have tolerated this problem so far but I don't think that it's necessary, and I'm sue there is a solution, I just don't know what it is yet. I do have a turbo bearing under my shellplate but I can't see that as being the cause and it seems to be tightened down properly. Any suggestions? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speculatorking Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 (edited) I'm having the same problem with my 650. I am reloading 9mm and I use one shot case lube. Edited January 18, 2009 by speculatorking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D. Manley Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Hello All, Just wanted to get the experts opinion on a small problem. I have a Dillon R550b and I basically only reload 9mm, and all my brass is new. I've narrowed the sticking problem down to the powder and case neck resizing die. When I pull down to dump the appropiate powder charge and slightly bell the case mouth, on the up-stroke I have to basically pop the handle upwards to get it to release the case. I've chacked all the other dies one at a time and none of them have this sticking problem, they work smooth as butter. Upon close examination the tip of the die that enters the case mouth shows some slight wear, somewhat like scrapes or minute groves from being pressured into the case mouth. Will lube solve this problem? And if so, how do you prevent the lube from contaminating the powder if used. I have tolerated this problem so far but I don't think that it's necessary, and I'm sue there is a solution, I just don't know what it is yet. I do have a turbo bearing under my shellplate but I can't see that as being the cause and it seems to be tightened down properly. Any suggestions? Thanks! If you're using new brass, this is a common problem and will pretty well disappear once fired. Some people find tumbling new brass with a little additive for a while helps out. If it's happening with fired brass, take the powder funnel out and polish the expander tip well. Some people use a "Scotchbrite" pad for this...I use "Flitz" and a Dremel tool to put a smooth, chrome-like finish on mine. I've also found that a coating of dry lube seems to help as well. FWIW, this is the type of lube you spray on, let dry to a haze and wipe off. It's available at most HW stores, contains no oils and leaves no residue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I also load 9x19 on a 550. Two things that helped smooth out the process was polishing the end of the powder drop tube, adjusting the powder drop die to where it gives the brass the minimum amount of flare, and adding "One Shot" lubricant to the brass. I've never had a misfire due to powder contamination with "One Shot". Loading 9 Major results in a nearly full case (I use VV N-350) so any grabbing by the dies makes a big mess in a hurry. Try the above and if you still have a problem, let us know. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I also load 9x19 on a 550. Two things that helped smooth out the process was polishing the end of the powder drop tube, adjusting the powder drop die to where it gives the brass the minimum amount of flare, and adding "One Shot" lubricant to the brass. I've never had a misfire due to powder contamination with "One Shot".Loading 9 Major results in a nearly full case (I use VV N-350) so any grabbing by the dies makes a big mess in a hurry. Try the above and if you still have a problem, let us know. Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jst1tym Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 When adding "One Shot Lube" I gues it's made by Hornady correct? If you tumble them, how much would you add to the tumbler and how long would you tumble? Then I would assume you take them out of the tumbler and let the cases sit in the open air to dry for a little bit? I do not have a tumbler yet because I only use new brass and once shot buy more. I guess that I just never got around to picking up my brass yet...but I will, especially if "once fired brass" helps with this problem. So would you use media and case lube when tumbling? Sorry about all the questions, I've only been reloading a short time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 When adding "One Shot Lube" I gues it's made by Hornady correct? If you tumble them, how much would you add to the tumbler and how long would you tumble? Then I would assume you take them out of the tumbler and let the cases sit in the open air to dry for a little bit? I do not have a tumbler yet because I only use new brass and once shot buy more. I guess that I just never got around to picking up my brass yet...but I will, especially if "once fired brass" helps with this problem. So would you use media and case lube when tumbling? Sorry about all the questions, I've only been reloading a short time After polishing the brass, I separate the brass from the media and put a couple hundred pieces of brass into a gallon size zip lock bag. I then spray a three or four second burst of "One Shot" into the bag, seal it up and toss it around to allow the lubricant to spread. I then just dump the brass into a container next to the old 550. Some folks will tumble their loaded rounds to remove the "One Shot" but so far I don;t bother with the extra step. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 When adding "One Shot Lube" I gues it's made by Hornady correct? If you tumble them, how much would you add to the tumbler and how long would you tumble? Then I would assume you take them out of the tumbler and let the cases sit in the open air to dry for a little bit? I do not have a tumbler yet because I only use new brass and once shot buy more. I guess that I just never got around to picking up my brass yet...but I will, especially if "once fired brass" helps with this problem. So would you use media and case lube when tumbling? Sorry about all the questions, I've only been reloading a short time After polishing the brass, I separate the brass from the media and put a couple hundred pieces of brass into a gallon size zip lock bag. I then spray a three or four second burst of "One Shot" into the bag, seal it up and toss it around to allow the lubricant to spread. I then just dump the brass into a container next to the old 550. Some folks will tumble their loaded rounds to remove the "One Shot" but so far I don;t bother with the extra step. Bill 1 again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 One other thing you can check is the amount of bell you are putting on your cases. You want the smallest amount you can get away with. Sometimes if you just rub your fingers on the die the oils from your skin are enough to keep them from sticking. When i use OneShot i just dump my brass on an old T shirt, make sure they are laying flat, and spray the whole works just on the side thats up. No need to make sure the whole case is coated, thats why it's called OneShot. Then just dump them in your brass container and start pulling the handle. The lube will get to where its needed on its own. If you don't use a lot then you don't have to clean everything after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jst1tym Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'll give the one shot a try and get back to you with the results! Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvb Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I only use new brass and once shot buy more. I guess that I just never got around to picking up my brass yet... Doesn't that defeat the point of "RE-loading?" Doesn't going to Walmart become cheaper at that point? If you don't want to pick it up I'd suggest at least buying once-fired brass to save some $. Unless you can afford it and your bullet's jackets are made of gold! agree with the others if the powder funnel is new a little polishing on the funnel helps. Or it will polish itself over time with use. I personally like 0.015" of bell. enough that it positively/consistantly works the powder measure but not so much the case sticks on there or over-works the case. -rvb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragsflh Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 once shot brass is easier to reload.on another forum said to try pure lanolim.its in baby section wally wor walgreens,going to try some today.dont take much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravo2 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I have the same problem and I'm only loading 9mm so far. When I reloaded before with another press 550 years ago on 45 dies I never had that problem. I know I got a good flar and feel like its the best spot set at to keep my bullets from falling or really leaning and easier to go quicker and not have to go slow. A little less flar and its finiky on putting bullets on cases with out them falling. I have forgotten the flar size but will see what it is. It does get annoying when it all the time sticks and I am using once fired cases no new cases too! I bought my dies used though and they look fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 You need to be aware that the powder funnel/flaring insert can collect brass shavings on the surface. Very small, only seen with a microscope. They make the funnel stick to the brass as you try and pull the handle back up. Best solution (beyond what has been suggested) is to polish the thing every once in a while. I wipe it clean with my hands while I reload. I also keep some scotch brite type pad handy to give it a quick polish every once in a while. I gave mine a good polish with my dremel a while back and that helped the most as it keeps the brass from finding as many places to get lodged into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atbarr Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Doesn't that defeat the point of "RE-loading?"Doesn't going to Walmart become cheaper at that point? If you don't want to pick it up I'd suggest at least buying once-fired brass to save some $. +1 to this. Brass is what, 90% of the cost? A.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prreed10 Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 It has been mentioned, but try some case lube. I just gave some Hornady One Shot a try and WOW!. I will never load without it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravo2 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) I check mine with my fingers all the time and keep it clean and never found any shavings or anything on it. I wipe it off a lot but it has never made a difference. I thought about polishing it but though about using some redding tin can of lube forgot what its called but bought couple cans for 50 bmg reloading. Anyone try it? How has it worked? It seems it would be less contaminating with the powder. Edited February 16, 2009 by bravo2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) I check mine with my fingers all the time and keep it clean and never found any shavings or anything on it. I wipe it off a lot but it has never made a difference. I thought about polishing it but though about using some redding tin can of lube forgot what its called but bought couple cans for 50 bmg reloading. Anyone try it? How has it worked? It seems it would be less contaminating with the powder. This is what Dillon Tech told me. "the exanding plug/die can get shavings inbedded in it. You won't see or feel it with your eye. You can polish it off with a scotchbrite pad or similiar. Something very, very fine. " For some reason it's most noticable with new brass. I forget why. Edited February 16, 2009 by 98sr20ve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 It has been mentioned, but try some case lube. I just gave some Hornady One Shot a try and WOW!. I will never load without it again. That's what I tell those new to reloading on the phone - Load some without One Shot, then load with One Shot - and you'll never load without lube again. For some reason it's most noticable with new brass. I forget why. It's because new brass has very sharp edges on the case mouth. And it just takes one firing to de-burr the case mouth. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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