D. Manley

This. S&B is actually good, tough brass as is the military WCC. A little bump with the Dillon tool turns "junk" into excellent brass. Sent from my Droid RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk2

Can't let this thread go by without a plug for N330. IMHO, it don't get much better for 9MM.

I love 'em...I use 1.120 with no problems.

I'm almost embarrased. How about a used SDB with 2-caliber conversions, RCBS Jr. press, Lee Production Pot, Lyman Lube/Sizer, 6-bullet molds plus, assorted manuals and other goodies for...$50.00 total.

Yes. +1. Flex has it right and in some cases, by a long shot. I saw come .40 caliber ransom rest comparisons a couple of months ago between popular gaming handloads and WWB factory and the results were stunning. The difference was so great the person running the test went back and re-ran the WWB for another go-round...same conclusion. There are some very accurate factory loads but I would'nt call it "the rule" by any stretch.

WCC is good stuff. You can usually find some up on the auction sites like Gunbroker or, from one of the milsurp vendors. It's available at GIBRASS for $50.00 / 1,000 or &48.00 per in lots of 5,000 but with a little careful digging around on the auctions you may find a better deal.

I've noticed that when loading on my SDB, the .45 cases will frequently hit the edge of the die and "hang" unless they are perfectly placed in the shellholder although, I don't encounter the same thing with 9MM, .40 or .38/.357. The case mouth catches on the little groove between the carbide insert and the outer die shell. I've just accepted it as the nature of the beast and slow down loading .45 while taking a good look at the #1 position last thing before stroking the handle. If there were a way to eliminate that groove, I think they'd funnel in a lot better...at least, on a Square Deal. Thanks, Sounds very similar to my issue, I just can't find the "perfect" placement. Maybe I need to learn patience. "Perfect" on my machine, is with the case fully inserted into the shellplate at station #1 and in contact with the back side of the slot. If it wiggles out the slightest bit, it will hang on the edge of the sizing die. Somewhat curiously, other calibers seem to be far more forgiving and require no special attention. Once, while talking to Dillon about something else, I mentioned this .45 quirk...their suggestion was to just slow everything down.

I've noticed that when loading on my SDB, the .45 cases will frequently hit the edge of the die and "hang" unless they are perfectly placed in the shellholder although, I don't encounter the same thing with 9MM, .40 or .38/.357. The case mouth catches on the little groove between the carbide insert and the outer die shell. I've just accepted it as the nature of the beast and slow down loading .45 while taking a good look at the #1 position last thing before stroking the handle. If there were a way to eliminate that groove, I think they'd funnel in a lot better...at least, on a Square Deal.

Imperial does work fine but IMO, way too slow for volume use in a GRX. I generally use HOS for normal sizing operations but find the Dillon spray lube a little more 'substantial' and works better for the GRX die.

Flex's load is a good one and is my personal favorite using TG powder. TG runs my G-35 100% down to 3.2 grains (wife's favorite). I do find that 3.5 provides surprisingly good benched groups out to 25 yards and bests the 3.2 load there a bit. Shooting a 180 Rainier or Zero JHP over 3.5 TG or 3.2 N-310...just can't help but smile.

Two Delta, that sounds more suited to a .45 load, you're shooting it a .40? Quickload puts a .40 caliber 180 JHP @ 1.135 OAL reaching nominal max PSI at around 3.8 grains of N310 and 4.2 grains hit 42,060 PSI. If that data's even close, seems 4.5 grains would be well into the freaky zone. Just curious.

You might want to shoot Vihtavuori an email and see if they can provide a little (safe) data...(on this one, they may and may not but don't hurt to ask). I've been shooting 3.2 grains VV N-310 under 180 Rainier FP's @ 1.130 in a G-35 and it's a sweet shooting, accurate load but I can't help with 165's or 200's. I would'nt recommend "extrapolating" from someone else's load using N-310.

I don't think you'll have any problems with the Wolf primers in a stock gun but they are a bit harder to light and a few people here have reported problems seating them. I've not really had any seating issues with Wolf but did have ignition problems in my Glocks running tuned triggers and have gone back to Federal. As a baseline check, I can run the Wolfs 100% in the same guns with stock triggers.

Yep. I could hardly believe it when I saw a G-17L and G-24 side-by-side in the counter last trip to Academy.

Same here. I give cases a minimal "pre-cleaning" and run them through the U-Dies set up on a LCT for my (4) pistol calibers. After sizing/decapping I'll re-polish them and check for defects as I inspect primer pockets for any media in the flash holes. I find flawed cases a lot easier to spot on clean, shiny, brass and while it does involve extra steps, the end result is a butter-smooth load process when they're ran through the Dillon...not for everyone but worth it to me.

+1, my sentiments exactly.

Sidetracking the thread a bit but still close to topic... I'm curious about your setup running the RPFPS on a stock OEM striker. I'd have thought the extra FP weight would be a negative for good primer hits using the 4 LB spring but, maybe not. Have you ran this setup very long? The Sotelo trigger kit comes with the Wolfe competition spring kit. I've ran two of these kits on my production guns, g17 and g34, for about 4 years now. Definately long enough that I've changed the springs in each gun at least twice. If it doesn't light off a primer, it was military, a CCI, or my fault during reloading. Opinions do vary about this, and many are running lighter strikers. I haven't ran into the need. Thanks, interesting tidbit and dutifully noted. I have one of Ralph's kits although I no longer use it but that should have no impact either way. I'd just not ran across anybody using the stock OEM firing pins with the lighter springs before. I would not have expected the 4 LB Wolff to give the heavier FP the inertia needed for reliable ignition but never too old to learn something. Good to know since I've got a box full of 'em. Thanks.

Let me put it to you this way. I have a couple of G-17's, a G-34, G-35, G-21 and my wife has her own G-26. She recently had to re-certify her CCW permit and...chose my G-35 to use.

I run everything short of +P defensive type stuff through mine with a 15 LB ISMI spring.

Sidetracking the thread a bit but still close to topic... I'm curious about your setup running the RPFPS on a stock OEM striker. I'd have thought the extra FP weight would be a negative for good primer hits using the 4 LB spring but, maybe not. Have you ran this setup very long?

"CLICK" for Rob's Explanation.

I shoot both and think it's a tossup. My G-35 using TG or N-310 under 180's at minor PF feels every bit as soft-shooting as the G-34 shooting minor 147 grain loads. For some reason I can't really explain, I seem to shoot the .40 a little better but both are sweet.

I checked a few Winchester cases that were ran through the GRX and U-Dies. Largest diameter was .421 and was at the case head. Case mouth varied from .415 to .417. Understand that the GRX does not resize the case mouth sufficiently for loading, running through a normal sizing die is still required. I did not have any fired, unsized cases to give you a yardstick of what changes the GRX only would make toward the case mouth. It's pretty much a mute point anyway since the case mouth has to come down some more for bullet tension. I can tell you from using the GRX that you need a very rigid bench and you will use lube. I find HOS too light but a liberal coat of Dillons spray works OK. Most go through without a lot of effort but you frequently have to really man-up on 'em even with, no visible bulges.

I run 'em around 1.10 in my G-34.

Almost guaranteed. S&B actually markets the brass and steel separately but unfortunately, a lot of vendors do not specify. I've noticed in the Natchezs catalogs that they are one of the few that offers both versions and prices accordingly. And you're right, without a magnet, almost impossible to detect visually...however, the priming station seems to have no trouble at all spotting the fake brass.