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Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'll give the one shot a try and get back to you with the results! Thanks again.

When adding "One Shot Lube" I gues it's made by Hornady correct? If you tumble them, how much would you add to the tumbler and how long would you tumble? Then I would assume you take them out of the tumbler and let the cases sit in the open air to dry for a little bit? I do not have a tumbler yet because I only use new brass and once shot buy more. I guess that I just never got around to picking up my brass yet...but I will, especially if "once fired brass" helps with this problem. So would you use media and case lube when tumbling? Sorry about all the questions, I've only been reloading a short time

Hello All, Just wanted to get the experts opinion on a small problem. I have a Dillon R550b and I basically only reload 9mm, and all my brass is new. I've narrowed the sticking problem down to the powder and case neck resizing die. When I pull down to dump the appropiate powder charge and slightly bell the case mouth, on the up-stroke I have to basically pop the handle upwards to get it to release the case. I've chacked all the other dies one at a time and none of them have this sticking problem, they work smooth as butter. Upon close examination the tip of the die that enters the case mouth shows some slight wear, somewhat like scrapes or minute groves from being pressured into the case mouth. Will lube solve this problem? And if so, how do you prevent the lube from contaminating the powder if used. I have tolerated this problem so far but I don't think that it's necessary, and I'm sue there is a solution, I just don't know what it is yet. I do have a turbo bearing under my shellplate but I can't see that as being the cause and it seems to be tightened down properly. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Thanks for all the replies. A little background, I shoot mainly all 9mm consisting mostly all Sig's except my SA EMP. I purchased a dillion RL550B w/most goodies. I've purchased MG 115gr CMJ, new Winchester brass all 1k's worth. Two different powders, Blue Dot #5 and VV320#4 and winchester small pistol primers. Once I get setup I plan on loading to OAL for the 9mm and start working up loads for both different powders. I have the Lymans 48th handbook, a Speer manual, and a Sierra 50th Anniversary relaoding manual, and a VihtaVouri manual and that one came with another manual as a bonus.....So, I'm basically equipped and ready to go. The information presented has helped me understand the idea and it's importaqnce to the relaoding of the 9mm. I have read that it needs just a small taper crimp, just enough to take the bell out from resizing aqnd opening up the casemouth for bullet seating. I think all this will make more sense when I actually start to reload. I'm glad to see that I wasn't the only one that had interest in this question....and please any further comments, keep em coming

Though I'm not totally new to reloading, I reloaded in the 80's for my .357 and .44 mags. I'm now strictly a 9mm reloader..or at least when I get finally set up. I've bought several manuals and have read in a couple that " this cartridge headspaces from the case mouth"....Just what exactly does this mean?? Thanks for any help!

Thanks all for the info, I'll be off to the gun show in a little bit and will look for a Sierra Manual. Additionally, all my pistols are (with the exception of my python, diamondbacks, ruger mk3 and trooper) are 9mm. They consist of the sig p229 elites, sig p250, sig p239, sig p225, sig p228, a hk p30 and a sa emp. So the barrel lengths are going to vary. Most of the sig's withe the exception of the 225's and the 239 and hk p30 are similiar in barrel lengths, and the emp has a 3" barrel. Does this mean ideally I have to work up loads for each or just go with a good generic that I can load? I usually shoot wwb 115gr at the range....and yes, these will be for range use only. I seem to have fairly good luck with all my sig's and the wwb from wally world. I do however have fiocchi and remmington and some hd tactical ammo. I have a ccw but do not carry as of yet, it allows me to cut down the wait time when purchasing a new firearm.

Hey there, and thanks for all the info. Thank you Steve for providing your load data. However, I wished that what I'm looking for specifically existed some place, and I've conducted plenty of searches already. I'm either going to change the bullet or the powders to get something more exact to start. MG loading data is as mentioned, difficult to say the least to find I should have started with a more widely used powder and bullet, of which data exist's in some manuals. I'm going to a gun show today so maybe I'll search for more info, or just buy something different. Thanks agian for the welcome guy's and I'm sure I'll come up with something....

Hey Fellas, And thanks for the welcome...I took the advice of some here and ordered the Montana Golds CMJ's. I ordered a 1,000 to start and some VV320 and Blue Dot powder, CCI smalll pistol primers and Winchester brass. I must have outdated manuals but I have not found any load spec's for the MG 115gr CMJ's using VV 320 or Blue Dot powders. I've found all other bullet loading specs but not Montana Gold using these powders....Can anybody point me to this info. I just plqan on using them as target loads. Thanks Will.

Hello, this is my first post here. I am members of a few pistol forums. I desided to start reloading once again. I used to load for my .44mags and .357's on a green machine progressive loader in the early 80's. I just purchased from Brian a RL 550B with a set of 9mm dies.Can somebody tell me a good 9mm round? I plan on using a 115gr or 125gr fmj rn for all my Sigs and EMP. I pretty much decided on VV Powders or Power Pistol and/or Blue Dot. These days I'm just not sure which bullet is good/best ie Speer, Nosler, Sierra, or Hornady? For my magnums in the past it was mostly Speer/Blue Dot. Which do you suggest?