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Lone Wolf 2-Pound Connector?


Duane Thomas

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Duane, do you mean the 3.5# connector? I double checked the LW website and didn't see a 2# connector.

If you are referring to the 3.5, it is the connector that I use and am quite happy with it. I feel that it provides a little more crispness that is generally lost when going from a 5# to a 3.5# OEM connector.

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Duane, do you mean the 3.5# connector? I double checked the LW website and didn't see a 2# connector.

If you are referring to the 3.5, it is the connector that I use and am quite happy with it. I feel that it provides a little more crispness that is generally lost when going from a 5# to a 3.5# OEM connector.

+1

I have LWD (3.5#) in mine as well. Significant improvement over OEM connector IMO.

Jim

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LWD 3.5 connector----got one in every Glock I own.

LWD 2 lb connector. There was one in the works, but as far as I know it never got past

prototyping. I heard about it maybe 2 years ago??? and the last time I asked about it

was told that it had problems and was not going to be produced.

Bill

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I helped JR develop this connector. A lot of thought went into the design. It is not as simple as it appears. There are subtle differences in the lip angle, height and leg tension.

Very interesting. I have heard people say that they won't use anything other than OEM because as soon as you change to something else, you have to tweak several other things as well. It would seem to me, then, that changing something as critical as the connector would inevitably lead to having to change at least a few other things.

Your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

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I helped JR develop this connector. A lot of thought went into the design. It is not as simple as it appears. There are subtle differences in the lip angle, height and leg tension.

Very interesting. I have heard people say that they won't use anything other than OEM because as soon as you change to something else, you have to tweak several other things as well. It would seem to me, then, that changing something as critical as the connector would inevitably lead to having to change at least a few other things.

Your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

From what I've read and experienced, the interdependency of Glock parts mostly come from the balancing spring tensions. I've swapped through several connectors (2 Glock, Ghost, LWD) with no change whatsoever in the functioning of the gun, other than the change of the actual trigger pull. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

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I helped JR develop this connector. A lot of thought went into the design. It is not as simple as it appears. There are subtle differences in the lip angle, height and leg tension.

Very interesting. I have heard people say that they won't use anything other than OEM because as soon as you change to something else, you have to tweak several other things as well. It would seem to me, then, that changing something as critical as the connector would inevitably lead to having to change at least a few other things.

Your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

From what I've read and experienced, the interdependency of Glock parts mostly come from the balancing spring tensions. I've swapped through several connectors (2 Glock, Ghost, LWD) with no change whatsoever in the functioning of the gun, other than the change of the actual trigger pull. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I agree, changing connectors has always been simple, gun was completely reliable and no other changes were ever needed.

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I helped JR develop this connector. A lot of thought went into the design. It is not as simple as it appears. There are subtle differences in the lip angle, height and leg tension.

I've got several of them, but have always had to fit them to my glocks as they constantly rub the slide. I like them, just find that annoying.

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Some of the early designs had way too much leg tension. Later models corrected that issue. Too much drag on the slide is easily corrected. You can either slightly straighten the leg angle or remove a little material from the ear.

Another issue with the first design was the lip was a tad too high. The striker would not release on a small percentage of Glocks. That was corrected by lowering the lip a bit.

The worst offender of slide drag is the Ghost.

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Some of the early designs had way too much leg tension. Later models corrected that issue. Too much drag on the slide is easily corrected. You can either slightly straighten the leg angle or remove a little material from the ear.

Another issue with the first design was the lip was a tad too high. The striker would not release on a small percentage of Glocks. That was corrected by lowering the lip a bit.

The worst offender of slide drag is the Ghost.

Well done Joe.

How is the reset - like a Glock 3.5?

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Well, I've tried the LW and all the other 3.5 connectors, but I've come to prefer a stock 4.5, with a LW Ultimate Trigger Stop, replace the trigger and firing pin springs, and polish the heck out of everything. I've ended up with a sub 3# trigger that is nearly as crisp as a good 1911. All the 3.5s still feel too mushy for me for a match gun. Where I still use the 3.5s is stock or self defense guns where I don't want to change the spring tensions, but feel I need a lighter and smoother stock trigger. On those I've come to prefer the Glock over the LW connector. All the LW connectors I've tried need extra work to get them smooth.

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All the LW connectors I've tried need extra work to get them smooth.

This is not consistent with what I have found. Both LW 3.5 connectors that I have acquired arrived with a mirror-like polish. Apparently ymmv.

Now stock connectors need plenty of love to get them super smooth and/or get them to shine.

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I can't speak for jobob on what he had to so, but I ended up - on three different LW connectors - stoning the rounded tab that was rubbing on the slide. It did this on three different glocks it was installed in.

I spoke with JR at LWD on it, and he suggested doing just that, but that it would work itself out by shooting it. Finally got one to work okay and it was a great trigger, but ended up tossing all of them into the parts bin and going back to the Scherer.

The more I fiddle, the more I find myself returning to a near stock condition.

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I meant 4.5# connectors, though I realize Glock calls them 5.5 now. Just demonstrates my age! I still call them 4.5. And Glock calls what use to be 3.5, now a 4.5. It's all SO confusing for old folk!

Every LWD I've tried, 6 or 7 of them, seems to have a little, I don't know what to call it, except a hiccup in their gittyup during the trigger movement. When I closely examined the surfaces involved, they all had a very tiny little bump in the bottom of the angle formed at the end where the nose of the trigger bar rides. It took quite a bit of work with a needle file to get that out of there. If I didn't do that, no matter how well I polished it, there still would be a little bump in the trigger pull. These are connectors I've received in 2 or 3 orders, and are not, I don't think, from one lot, though I suppose they could be.

For some time the LWD connectors were all I used, but I've kinda moved away from them. But, seeing how I'm out voted here, I may dig them out and give them another shot. The LW connectors did seem to change slightly the release point, so I guess I can see how they might be perceived as 'crisper'. Might be fun to play with my Glocks' trigger again, and just when I thought I was all settled with what I like. It's getting toward winter and I need a project. Well, I've really got plenty to do, but at least it gives me an excuse to play with guns a little more.

Oh, another problem I experienced with LWD connectors, while I'm going down memory lane is, is the fact that they did move the contact point farther forward. This caused the trigger bar to cam downward earlier. With some guns (not all) the flat horizontal part of the trigger bar would catch on the edge of the flat of the plastic trigger housing where the trigger bar rests forming the drop safety. Rounding the lower edge of the part of the trigger bar where the contact was made, and also rounding off the angle on the plastic piece, seemed to fix it. I really noticed this on a G20. After I installed the LWD connector, instead of the trigger pull weight dropping, it increased substantially, like to about 7 lb! Rounding those edges relieved the problem, though shortening the nose of the trigger bar might be a better fix.

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Also, PB, my LWD connectors all needed polishing. Maybe I did get a bad lot. Though I will say that I called LW about my little problems and was told I had an early bad lot, so they sent me a couple free connectors. The new ones were just like the old ones, as far as I can tell.

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