Dan Bone Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 So I wanted to build a .22 Steel gun. I got a used M41 from Gunbroker after hearing all the hype. You kiddin me.... this thing is a brick. Accurate, yeah, no doubt. But weighs a ton and feels like a plow handle in your hand. Having the need for instant gratification I went for the CLARK barrel which slid right on. At first I went for a Jpoint site thinking I'd have an additional weight savings (and it does). Unfortunately the one that I have is only a 4 MOA and rather dim for my liking (for sale). So I put on an old C-more. This helps the gun considerably not only from the aspect of weight savings but it now has a feel / alignment very similar to that of my Bedell shorty. I think a little sandpaper and patience and we can have these grips feeling like a 2011 in no time. This thing will rock, but it prefers Blazer or Mini-Mags when it's throwing down on some steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got Juice? Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Buy a new extractor, tune and shave it, wolff reduced power springs, and that M41 will eat anything short of a complete dud. On my 46, I did not like the factory pin that tensions the extractor so I built a ball peen tool steel .171" longer than factory and a new peened extractor... and this gun will flat out cycle my Tanfoglio eating .357sigs on an open and comped top end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 (edited) So I wanted to build a .22 Steel gun. I got a used M41 from Gunbroker after hearing all the hype. You kiddin me.... this thing is a brick. Accurate, yeah, no doubt. But weighs a ton and feels like a plow handle in your hand. Having the need for instant gratification I went for the CLARK barrel which slid right on. At first I went for a Jpoint site thinking I'd have an additional weight savings (and it does). Unfortunately the one that I have is only a 4 MOA and rather dim for my liking (for sale). So I put on an old C-more. This helps the gun considerably not only from the aspect of weight savings but it now has a feel / alignment very similar to that of my Bedell shorty. I think a little sandpaper and patience and we can have these grips feeling like a 2011 in no time. This thing will rock, but it prefers Blazer or Mini-Mags when it's throwing down on some steel. That's a good start. I'd save yourself some time on the grips and just get a set of Herrett Trainer grips...I spent about 45min with a sanding drum on the dremel to round a few edges and tweak them here and there, but it now feels, indexes and points like my 2011 Open guns...it's right there. I would also be careful with Mini-mags or anything similar...they can beat the heck out of the slide/breach. The best way to go is to get the Wolff calibration kit and start with the heaviest spring and work down until it runs...only three in the kit, but it's worth it. R, Edited December 23, 2010 by G-ManBart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twikster Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 Has anyone here ever owned a Bob Loveless chopjob "trailgun" version of the M41? He cut it to 7" OAL and about 28 ozs of wt, and claimed it still retained 2" or better groups at 50 yds, firing two handed, unsupported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hello: I just got some parts for my Model 41. The Herrett trainer grips came but the one is broken and needs to go back I received the Wolff 6lb spring kit. Are you guys changing both springs or just the recoil spring? I am thinking of getting the other weight springs as well to try with the CCI SV ammo I am getting. Let me know. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hello: I just got some parts for my Model 41. The Herrett trainer grips came but the one is broken and needs to go back I received the Wolff 6lb spring kit. Are you guys changing both springs or just the recoil spring? I am thinking of getting the other weight springs as well to try with the CCI SV ammo I am getting. Let me know. Thanks, Eric I haven't changed any of the springs in mine using either the factory 5.5 or the Bully Barrel. Sorry to hear about the Herretts. I have the same ones on mine and love them. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hello: The grips look great and I will have some new ones coming. Bullseye Gear are sending some new ones and a call tag for the other ones I am going to try the lighter spring to see how it feels and shoots. I will then change the firing pin spring if I need to. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Hello: I tried the 6lb recoil spring today and it works great with CCI SV ammo. I did have some fail to ejects with the stock spring and the 6lb. I tore the top all apart and found grease and other crap in there. It may have been in there since new back in the 1970's I also found that the firing pin spring is lighter than the Wolff replacement spring so I will keep it in there since it gives nice/good hits on the ammo. Going bang everytime is great Now I want to order up some spares fot it. Hope this helps others wanting to try different recoil springs. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 (edited) Here is my modified S&W Mod 41. Not much to look at, but a great shooter. It can be returned to its original bullseye version by changing out the top end which I have, removing the grips & magwell & installing the original grips & bullseye top end. In both cases it shoots the same ammo CCI Std. Vel. Lead 40 gr. roundnose. Both setups run 100%. What is pictured is a 7" barrel cut to 5.5" & fluted, also rear tang removed. 7" barrel is lighter than the standard 5.5" barrel. Went the 7" barrel route because I didn't want to spend $550.00 for the Bully Barrel. Edited April 12, 2011 by 40S&W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Hello: Your model 41 looks great to me. How do you like the magwell? I am on the fence to get one since I will need to make the base pads. I am going to mill down a 5.5" barrel and see how that works out with a C-More on top. I didn't think you could still get the Bully barrels? Try a 6lb recoil spring it calms the flip down some and is relable also. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 (edited) Aircooled6racer: The mag well is great. No more trying to get the mag in a small opening, also with the alum. base pads the mags drop quickly. Used "2 Ton Tape" to attach the base pads to the mags. Once the tape is on,it is not going to come off so don't be in a hurry when making the attachment. You can get the tape at a Lowes Store. Thanks for the complement. As far as the Bully Barrel I was on the list last year but just didn't think $550.00 was worth it, at least not for me. The 7" barrel cut,fluted,fitted,ramp work, & crowned, grips, magwell, base pads, and tang removal cost me a total of $465.00 including gunsmith labor. Gunsmith is Randy Hollowbush of The Handgunner Custom Guns in Topton, PA. Eric: Thanks for the complement, greatly appriciated. Edited April 12, 2011 by 40S&W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Hello: Here is a barrel I am working on for Rimfire steel matches. I want to play with the weight of the barrel some and this is what I am starting with. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Eric that is an awesome set up. Do you intend to lighten the nose? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Dave: I want to shoot it first and then decide where to lighten the slide. I like a quick reacting pistol so it may need alot of lightening up front. I also have to make a fixture to hold the barrel so I can thread the end for a comp if I decide it needs a comp. I am thinking it won't need the comp if I get the weight correct. After all it is a 22 I plan to shoot it next week with a match on the weekend. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Eric: Usually when you mount the C-More with the short screws there is very little left of the barrel in the screw areas and there will be the possibility over time that the screws will become visible in the barrel. The reason I mention this is that three well know gunsmiths told me this when I was considering mounting a C-More directly to the barrel. They say there is just not enough barrel thickness to do a direct mount safely and not have very early premature barrel wear in the screw areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I have the same magwell on my 41. I went the route of cutting down the Herrett Trainer grips and shaping them to the magwell. Don't waste your time doing that, by the time you cut them off and blend the back of the grip to the magwell you have the same shape and size as cutting the stock grips I chose the magwell because my hands are big and it gave me more room for my weak hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Hello: The screws are threaded in there twice the diameter which is actually stronger than the screw itself There is over 0.150" from the bottom of the screw hole and the barrel chamber and bore. If you flat topped the barrel more than I did then you might have a problem. I shot it today and it is very accurate. I will try it at a Rimfire match next weekend to see if more weight needs to come off. So far I like it I appreciate the info on the magwell. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TG Reaper Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Has anyone here ever owned a Bob Loveless chopjob "trailgun" version of the M41? He cut it to 7" OAL and about 28 ozs of wt, and claimed it still retained 2" or better groups at 50 yds, firing two handed, unsupported. I have one....tried to insert a pic but it's not working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TG Reaper Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Has anyone here ever owned a Bob Loveless chopjob "trailgun" version of the M41? He cut it to 7" OAL and about 28 ozs of wt, and claimed it still retained 2" or better groups at 50 yds, firing two handed, unsupported. I have one....I tried to post a picture, but it won't work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herm1963 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Well buddy of mine got me shooting steel plates and I love it! Just mounted the Burris Fast fire III to my Model 41 cannot wait to sight it in and shoot sat steel. M41.bmp Edited May 31, 2012 by Herm1963 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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