C&S Ext. Firing Pin

[10mmdave]

I have been useing the C&C FP on my 625's for about two years and haven't had any problems. I Don't count the rounds but i'm about out of a keg of WST.

I use WW primers and only dry fire 20-30 times a week.

I'm wondering if my use of harder WW primers is giving some protection to the FP.. Federals being softer would let the FP hit the limit pin harder.

Does this make sense? I'm changing over to Federals as I want a lighter DA trigger.

I hear what your saying earplug, I've been using the C&S's for a number of years without a problem (kow )

Here's a past thread about it http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...c=56801&hl=

I asked how many had breakage but I don't think I asked in what, myself I have them in 1 610, 2 627's, 1 686......

and I think in a 627 Super. I don't think they're all breaking in 625's are they ??

[sargenv]

Hmm...

I have a C&S in a 610 and a 627. I just had one placed into my other 627. The 610 has at least 20,000 rounds on it and the 627 (older) has at least 10,000 rounds on it, a mix of Winchester and Federal small pistol primers. The 627 ignites both pretty well but use the winchesters only for practice since I get a misfire maybe one out of about three hundred rounds. A second strike on that particular round usually ignites it. The 610 will only reliably fire Federals.

I don't own a 625 so I can't comment on that one..

[Toolguy]

Misfires are a mainspring tension and hammer weight issue. Breakage is a firing pin issue.

[bountyhunter]

Misfires are a mainspring tension and hammer weight issue. Breakage is a firing pin issue.

Except back when they first marketed these, C+S said or implied that the "longer" pins would "restore the full strike power" or some similar claim. I remember that vivdly because that is the one and ONLY reason I bought them for my guns. And, after some extensive testing using reduced power mainsprings and the stock hammer, I found out they do EXACTLY NOTHING to increases striking energy over the stock FP. The C+S pin does extend slightly farther forward when you dry fire, but in live fire the primer stops the forward travel so it is the same as stock. No improvement that I could measure at all.

[earplug]

Just broke one of my C&S pins. Dry firing. Lucky I was inside so I could hear it hit the wall.

If you keep your SA functional, you can replace your firing pin without taking any parts off. I hate it when I have to mess with the strain screw after its been well Locktited.

[Greg Q]

I had a C&S break 2 months after installing in a 625. Around 800 rounds.

[Carmoney]

Are we seeing a pattern here, folks?

[RePete]

I installed a C&S pins in my 625-8.

I've fired over 1000rds and it hasn't broken, but I'm going to reinstall the original anyway.

[EEH]

I called C & S they will replace any broken pins and want old ones to test so send them in.

[Taildraggerdave]

I called C & S they will replace any broken pins and want old ones to test so send them in.

That's good to hear. I've got a few hundred rounds live and dry fire on a C&S pin in my 625. We'll see how long it lasts then I'll send it back. I keep the factory one in my tool kit so I guess in a worst case, I'll have to repair it at the match and then rerun the stage or something...

Take care,

Dave

[Carmoney]

I guess in a worst case, I'll have to repair it at the match and then rerun the stage or something...

Unfortunately, that is not an option in any real match that's following the rules. A malf like that will usually cause the shooter to zero the stage, which will ruin the entire match effort. Obviously, in a duty or defense gun, the result could be far more catastrophic....

[Carmoney]

I called C & S they will replace any broken pins and want old ones to test so send them in.

Did you happen to ask if a cash refund is available for those who are no longer willing to trust the product?

[Toolguy]

There seems to be a lot of C&S bashing lately. I wonder if they're really that evil or if maybe just unlucky and got a bad

run of parts from a supplier.

[pskys2]

Knock on Wood, I've used them for a couple of years. Broke a Randy Lee modified Factory, then a c&s and all due to constant dry firing (I also wore out an extractor at the same time). Since I've backed off a bit I've had a couple thousand thru the one I have. I have several spares just in case.

But Dr. Dremel's got me spooked so I'm hoping Bubber was able to score a couple of Randy Lee Next Gen FP's at the IRC for me!

Edited June 11, 2008 by pskys2

[10mmdave]

There seems to be a lot of C&S bashing lately. I wonder if they're really that evil or if maybe just unlucky and got a bad

run of parts from a supplier.

Comes up once or twice a year Toolguy, kinda suprised the thread hasen't been closed what with the bashing comments.

Gone through this peeing contest in the past, maybe I should mark it on my calendar to see if it's a seasonal event

But I do see a pattern appearing, seems they break in 625's most of the time.

[whizz]

I have found that polishing the tip of the original firing pin can actually improve the ability to ignite primers. If there are many scratches or pitting on the surface of the firing pin some of the striking force will be used to overcome unnecessary friction when hitting and deforming the primer "wall". It might seem like a small gain forcewise but I have empirically seen improvement. Easy solution when it works. Does nothing if main spring tension is set way too low though.

Do not forget that polishing is what you can do. No grinding on the tip, as a too short firing pin is nothing you want to end up with.

[bountyhunter]

I have found that polishing the tip of the original firing pin can actually improve the ability to ignite primers. If there are many scratches or pitting on the surface of the firing pin some of the striking force will be used to overcome unnecessary friction when hitting and deforming the primer "wall". It might seem like a small gain forcewise but I have empirically seen improvement. Easy solution when it works. Does nothing if main spring tension is set way too low though.

Do not forget that polishing is what you can do. No grinding on the tip, as a too short firing pin is nothing you want to end up with.

Good idea, couldn't hurt.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I have found that polishing the tip of the original firing pin can actually improve the ability to ignite primers. If there are many scratches or pitting on the surface of the firing pin some of the striking force will be used to overcome unnecessary friction when hitting and deforming the primer "wall". It might seem like a small gain forcewise but I have empirically seen improvement. Easy solution when it works. Does nothing if main spring tension is set way too low though.

Do not forget that polishing is what you can do. No grinding on the tip, as a too short firing pin is nothing you want to end up with.

I go one step further on this. I chuck the pin into a dremel and polish the entire pin with Jewelers rouge on a piece of leather. It makes the pin smooth and allows it to move freely.

[whizz]

If you do not as I, use the hammer bound firing pin...

[bountyhunter]

There seems to be a lot of C&S bashing lately. I wonder if they're really that evil or if maybe just unlucky and got a bad

run of parts from a supplier.

I don't have a guilty conscience, I think it's fair. C+S specifically markets their products as superior to standard, and if they are not they have no excuse. The other point was the defects I saw in the ones I ordered was not "hidden", they had flash lines from the mold which caused them to drag in the firing pin channel. I had to smooth them all, as well as extend the cut out to keep them from dragging on the primer heads in the resting position. IMHO, a simple visual inspection would have detected the mold lines. Ergo, this junk was not given any QA.

My other gripe was that these "extended" pins were marketed as restoring the "lost" strike power going from the hammer mounted pins to the frame mounted pins. They don't increase striking power in any way I could measure, so that's a false claim and means they actually offer no benefit.

IMHO, they are a scam because they don't give you anything for your money. If they also fail sooner than OEM products, that is an inexcusable offense for an aftermarket part.