whizz

I have used a 1917 (made 1936) for competition and they sure works fine with major PF loads. They do not have the peening problem of the 625 cylinder, and that I like. To be honest: The trigger will never get as good as on a modern gun. Soft and smooth but never as light. The sights have to be filed quite a lot, both front and rear. Tiny and not as fast as the options you find today. Accurracy is OK but nothing to write home about. Ligher than modern 625's it will also behave a bit more snappy when firing major PF. That aside I really like mine and have plans to rebuild it for real rear sights and possibly swap to a new heavier barrel.

Now you scare ME, Mike... I am planning to do the opposite as I have always shot more accurately with my 29-3 than the 625 and sort of like the "grasp" of the grooved trigger. In my 1917 I have the perfect combo a narrow trigger with slightly smoothed grooves

225gr Copper Plated Round Nose, 4.40 grs. N320, COL=28.40 mm = 1.118". About 175 PF.

Glad you are all right Cliff a revo ka-boom is no fun experience. Have seen a Ruger Vaquero in .45 Colt go the same way. The top strap was significantly bent on that revolver. Greg, are you sure N310 is good for .45 GAP? I suspect it will be difficult to reach major PF safely with N310 and 230 gr bullet. Most shooters here that has turned to the GAP-way use N320 to reach around 175 PF which is a healthy margin to 170. Does major PF differ in USPSA vs IPSC? Conny

I do the same, with or without stock cylinder release.

Tom, The grip is a Hogue monogrip. Finger grooves cut away and most parts of grip sanded with coarse grit. Then plastic padding (the flexible type) applied and gripped with oiled hands. After hardening excess plastic cut away. Then sanded with two component epoxy and Silicon Carbide grit 60/90 mesh. The grip is lightly brushed with steel brush to get the sharpest grit away before use.

Here are some links to images of the gun. Right side. Left side. Ready to rock... Thanks to RGS on this forum for helping me out with the bobbed hammer and some other goodies!!

HB Cliff!

It does have the lock. I mean it had the lock. The action was... well not so good, especially the cylinder lock - trigger engagement was extremely gritty and rough. It is fine now though. A good oil stone took care of that, as well as the rest of the parts that needed stoning. Just waiting to put a bobbed hammer into it and it should be ready to rock. Wish I was in as good shape as the gun... Got myself an inflammation in my right elbow just in time for our nationals. Glad I'm a southpaw. Some painkillers and a wooden dowel to bite into and I shall be good to go.

Got my 625-8 yesterday and noticed a strange discrepancy. The markings on the barrel are roll markings, not laser engraved. The text is also unusual as it on the right side reads: .45 cal model of 1988. Had a 625-3 a couple of years ago and it said model of 1989. Left side reads Smith & Wesson also in roll markings. The gun is manufactured in 2004. Is it common practise with S&W to use older stuff when assembling a new gun? It shoots really well. Held 3" at 25 yds offhand today. Reckon the gun holds even tighter with a good bullseye shooter behind it. Now I have to prepare it for the upcoming nationals in a couple of weeks.

It all worked out fine. Millett has shipped the item. Nice and fast service.

http://twotandogs.com/moonclipholders.html the area code might say something to an american...

Anyone know where to get a replacement rear screw for a Millett N-frame sight? Checked Millett's site but found nothing but a 1-800 number which is pretty useless for us europeans... Is it a special type of screw and some other part needed or can I use the S&W original? Conny

Regarding a to narrow notch I think it's nothing a steady hand and a good file can't cure. Think nothing will be worse than the sights on my 1917 anyway Really looking forward to get my 625 in a couple of weeks. A bit narrow rear... Edit: Ooops just realized that line could be misinterpreted Hope you understand I meant the rear sight... Writing in other than my native language sometimes keyboard tapping gets faster than my internal interpreter.

Almost the same around here Yellow marked are from our local club. Slight misstakes are costly when it is close like this. Makes it very fun and exciting during all match.

Yes LPA's are easy to get around here. Think I will go for the Millett plain black as I am not really sure I will like the overall look of my gun with the LPA. If I change my mind I can always get them later. Thanks for the input guys.

Anyone have experience from the mentioned rear sights? Please share your thoughts as I am in the process of deciding which it will be. Anyone think a original S&W rear with a widened or standard notch would do as well? Conny

Thanks for the kind offer RGS. Will get the stuff via a friend in California. Nice being so close to the source. Sometimes I wish I was... Conny

Are you sure that the moonclips is the problem? What ammo?

This might belong in a whole new thread but in that case I ask some moderator to move it. Cliff and Carmoney, in my opinion, you are entitled to be as harsh as you wish towards me or anybody else that bothers you. But before you call another man a thief you better be sure you are on the right track with your allegations. I am not sure if I am considered one of the presumed thieves. Anyway I feel I have to speak up on this matter as I have made moonclip holders that are similar in design to the one from NM. I have already told mr Carmoney that this is not a business for me. Merely a part of my shooting hobby. I have made a few holders and recieved money in return, of course. In the same way as I have made holsters, mag holders, bobbed hammers and other shooting related things for friends and fellow handgunners and also recieved money in return for my work. Any problems with that? Below you can see a several years old "moonclipholder" based on a idea I got from a fellow wheelgunner who by words described a holder he had seen used. The one he described was made from steel and wood. I made mine from leather and steel. They are pretty heavy as you can understand. From this design my present holders evolved and are today made from plastics only. Of course I can be accused of stealing the idea to use kydex instead of leather but that would be like bashing one maufacturer of cases because he too is using brass just like his competitors. There is a totally different thing if someone have a patent on a product. Then you would have to make sure not to infringe. If a patent exists there are still no problems making improvements with different solutions based on the same concept. As I have told mr Carmoney before: "I do not think I or anyone else would find it profitable to hand make clip holders on a when-I-feel-like-it basis." That is how they are made by me. I have also made the statement that I will never sell any holders to anyone in the US and you may believe whatever you like but I do keep my word. I have never seen or held a NM-holder and can not swear I have not made any solution which would be the same. But I am pretty confident my solutions to the challenges of making a smooth, light and reliable holder differ pretty much from the solutions of the NM, which I of course recommend before anything else. I am of the belief that competition is good during a match as well during business. Business competition leads to evolution of products and usually ends up as beneficial for the consumer. In the best of worlds both qualitywise and pricewise. If someone prefers a product wich is equal to another but the first has a more attractive price, the second producer have to lower his profit or cut his cost to stay in business, that's how it works. Thought that was what capitalism was all about... If you did and still like to call me a thief, actually I could not care less. Conny Forsberg

Thanks for all the answers. Think I will stick to Brownells. Have heard different opinions about Numrich. Some people say their parts are bad quality and some say they work just fine. RoundGunShooter, I live in Scandinavia. Would a 625 hammer for a FMFP be different here than in the US? And if so, why?

Is the frame mounted firing pin the same for L and N frames or is it different items? Want to get a spare one and I am not sure which one to order. Have been looking at Brownells site. Any other suitable places they can be found? Also where do I find a MIM hammer for a N-frame at the best rate? Conny

Most wheelgunners around here use the CR Speed. I use a modified Amadini Ghost. As a southpaw there has been few opportunities to sell a not used GRU and as recycling is good I have two Amadini Ghost modified from CZ to Revolver. One I use together with my S&W 1917 (also fits 625). The other is used with a 6" 29-3. Da recycled rig...

If you do not as I, use the hammer bound firing pin...

Congrats Cliff!! I had no opportunity attending in Kongsvinger but a club mate of mine was there, Anders. He told me Cliff won in Kongsvinger despite the fact he had extensive ammo trouble on a couple of stages. Makes it even more impressive.