49COE Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Maybe someone can explain to me what is happening. I installed a Bedell Titanium comp onto a Schuemann Hibricomp Barrel, used 271 red locktite, let it cure 24 hours, and then machined the top and sides to match the slide. Used a piloted comp reamer on it and there is no evidence of bullets hitting the comp. There was about a 4 thousandths gap between the barrel rib and the comp but I could live with that for now. After about 200 rounds or so the comp is twisting on the barrel and tightening itself further. What I don't understand is that aside from the fact that the locktite should be preventing it from turning at all, why it is tightening instead of loosening. The bullet is twisting clockwise, so the gun should torque counterclockwise, so I would think that it would loosen the comp if anything. Any thoughts, experiences, or insights about this would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianH Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Steel and titanium don't get along very well....mainly because the ti can't dissipate the heat of the barrel. Probably the expanding and contracting of the barrel as it heats and cools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcic Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Maybe someone can explain to me what is happening. I installed a Bedell Titanium comp onto a Schuemann Hibricomp Barrel, used 271 red locktite, let it cure 24 hours, and then machined the top and sides to match the slide. Used a piloted comp reamer on it and there is no evidence of bullets hitting the comp. There was about a 4 thousandths gap between the barrel rib and the comp but I could live with that for now. After about 200 rounds or so the comp is twisting on the barrel and tightening itself further. What I don't understand is that aside from the fact that the locktite should be preventing it from turning at all, why it is tightening instead of loosening. The bullet is twisting clockwise, so the gun should torque counterclockwise, so I would think that it would loosen the comp if anything. Any thoughts, experiences, or insights about this would be appreciated. Steel and titanium expand at different rates as they are heated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Yep the different rates of expansion between Ti and steel are what you're seeing. Most everyone I know uses a set screw (on the bottom) with the Ti comps to keep them from moving. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 ... uses a set screw (on the bottom) with the Ti comps to keep them from moving.... Ding ding. We have a winner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49COE Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 Thanks guys, I'll add a set screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I have used quite a few of those comps and haven't needed a screw to keep them from moving. They stay put for me. The thing I have run into is that if you don't open the last two baffles to about .390" bullets will hit them, it is just a matter of time. The end of the comp dips down and the top ports stretch out. Bear in mind this is VERY slight movement, but it doesn't take much at the end of the comp to bring the baffle down into the bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianH Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 And don't forget the primer. That's essential to making the loctite hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I've never used the primer, and not had the loctite loosen, unless the shooter used a lot of lube on the barrel and it got pumped into the joint. I also never used 271, it's not the best available. Get some Loctite 680, retaining compound. Prime if you want, I clean everything with alcohol. Let it sit, or WARM it up with a propane torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebg3 Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I've got a 3 port steel comp on a 5 port schuemann barrel. Loctite wouldn't keep it from turning/tightening after a 1000-2000 rounds or so. I finally used Acraglas from Brownells and problem went away. Bullets were not making contact with the comp. Maybe the comp/barrel thread fit wasn't tight enough for Loctite to properly bond.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEDELLCUSTOM Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 To keep the comp from turning I use 2 part quick set epoxy on the threads and always put a set screw in the bottom,either #8-36 or 6-48. The difference in the rate that the 2 different metals expand and contract may have something to do with your problem, also how well the threads mate together on the comp and barrel will have an affect on it staying tight,putting the set screw will prevent any movement. It's best to drill the set screw hole with the comp on the barrel and drill into the barrel about .040-.050" to make a seat for the screw. Also to take up the gap between your barrel rib & comp you need to turn some material off the backside of the comp until you can screw the comp onto the barrel to the point where you eliminate the gap since the .004" gap you have is not enough to get another full turn out of the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Meek Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 To keep the comp from turning I use 2 part quick set epoxy on the threads and always put a set screw in the bottom,either #8-36 or 6-48. The difference in the rate that the 2 different metals expand and contract may have something to do with your problem, also how well the threads mate together on the comp and barrel will have an affect on it staying tight,putting the set screw will prevent any movement. It's best to drill the set screw hole with the comp on the barrel and drill into the barrel about .040-.050" to make a seat for the screw. Also to take up the gap between your barrel rib & comp you need to turn some material off the backside of the comp until you can screw the comp onto the barrel to the point where you eliminate the gap since the .004" gap you have is not enough to get another full turn out of the comp. Dan, Can you provide the Name/Brand of the two part epoxy? Thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Wow, forgot about that 2 part epoxy idea. Dan I think I had seen you post that before. Name would be great? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 i had a set screw installed, no problems since. lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49COE Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 Wow, you have to love a forum that you can post a question and within 24 hours get loads of good advice from people who actually know what they are talking about, including the person who made the product that you are asking about. Thanks to all. With the two part epoxy method is it possible to get the comp off if need be, or is it permanent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Wow, you have to love a forum that you can post a question and within 24 hours get loads of good advice from people who actually know what they are talking about, including the person who made the product that you are asking about. Thanks to all. With the two part epoxy method is it possible to get the comp off if need be, or is it permanent? you'll have to put a torch to it when you want take it off. lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEDELLCUSTOM Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 (edited) Any quick setting or 5 minute 2 part epoxy from your local hardware store or Home Depot will work fine, you don't need a lot, just a bit on the barrel threads and in the comp threads, after screwing on the comp on wipe the excess off before it sets up and put your set screw in before the epoxy that ends up in the set screw hole hardens. Some of the epoxy will end up around the end of the barrel inside the first baffle of the comp, this can be cleaned out easily with a damp q-tip before it hardens(dampen the q-tip or the cotton will just stick to the epoxy inside the port) and anything left will disappear once you start shooting the pistol. As Lynn said, you will need to heat it with a torch to melt the epoxy and remove the comp. Edited March 27, 2008 by BEDELLCUSTOM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 awesome thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmon Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 any two part epoxy will work? harmon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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