49COE

Is that from the back, front, or center of the pin?

The STI feed lip dimensions for 38 super, listed in the link on this thread are .355-.365. Does this mean that they should be somewhere between these measurements or is it a taper from one dimension to the other? If it is a taper which dimension is the front and which is the back? My mags are running like crap right now and I need to get them running at least well enough to survive the backorder time for Howard's mags. Any help would be appreciated. - Jeremy

After my gun fell out of my Safariland 012 I replaced it with a SSI Ribas holster. It has a positive lock that when engaged will not allow the gun to fall or be knocked out. The only drawback is you have to remember to disengage the lock before you try to draw.

I like the idea, and the technical execution is excellent, however I think that they look cluttered. I really like the "Howard Smith" and "40 S&W" on the second mag, but the DVC overpowers them. Maybe put the DVC on the front of the mag. I would consider the font that you used to be "elegant" and in my opinion lends itself to a simple and understated design. These mags strike me as being loud. Just my opinion though. - Jeremy

You can also just use a pencil, just rub the lead (graphite) on the surfaces that you want to lube. It works well and is a lot cleaner than trying to control powdered graphite.

Thank you everyone for your replies, the informative ones as well as the ones pertaining to range wear. The need has been filled so I am no longer in the market. Thanks again - Jeremy

Actually it is a big, purple dinosaur suit and I skip through the stages singing "I love you, You love me......" Unfortunately I missed that one on the classifieds last night, so I am still in the market. The grip is actually not for me. A lady shooter friend of mine has very small hands and I went a little too far grinding down her current grip to try and make it easier for her to hold. It looks great, but the front strap it too thin and you can hold the mag in by squeezing the grip. She likes purple, so I figured I'd see if I could hunt one down. As for the outfit, she might be partial to the power ranger one Thanks - Jeremy

I was wondering if STI still makes the purple grip. If so, where can I get one, and if not, does anyone have one that they are looking to get rid of? It is very important for me to have my blaster match my outfit, you see Thanks

Wow, you have to love a forum that you can post a question and within 24 hours get loads of good advice from people who actually know what they are talking about, including the person who made the product that you are asking about. Thanks to all. With the two part epoxy method is it possible to get the comp off if need be, or is it permanent?

Thanks guys, I'll add a set screw.

Maybe someone can explain to me what is happening. I installed a Bedell Titanium comp onto a Schuemann Hibricomp Barrel, used 271 red locktite, let it cure 24 hours, and then machined the top and sides to match the slide. Used a piloted comp reamer on it and there is no evidence of bullets hitting the comp. There was about a 4 thousandths gap between the barrel rib and the comp but I could live with that for now. After about 200 rounds or so the comp is twisting on the barrel and tightening itself further. What I don't understand is that aside from the fact that the locktite should be preventing it from turning at all, why it is tightening instead of loosening. The bullet is twisting clockwise, so the gun should torque counterclockwise, so I would think that it would loosen the comp if anything. Any thoughts, experiences, or insights about this would be appreciated.

I just had my super comp aftec snap. Who is this Derek person and how do I contact him. Also, is there a warranty on Aftec extractors, and if so what is it? Thanks.

Both my timer and my friend's timer did the same thing. I called up CED about it and they said to send it back to them and they would fix, or more likely replace it. They said something about the first batch of timers were all doing what you described.

My Para fit in my 012, but not well. The aluminum on the outside of the holster that comes up to completely cover the the trigger was hitting the frame near the mag catch. The gun would go in the holster, but it was cockeyed and wasn't fully engaged with the retention system. I ended up removing some metal from the holster in this area, and now it fits fine. - Jeremy

Well, I got the Dawson spring and it does fit, but just barely. Certainly not well enough to inspire any confidence in it. When the trigger is pulled it looks like it is almost ready to slip under the sear. I don't think that it is supposed to be any longer than a regular spring, this particular on is just a bit longer.

You guys are evil, I can barely afford the 650!

I currently have a 550 and I have decided that I want to get another press because I am lazy and I hate changing my setup when I want to load another caliber. At first I figured I would just get another 550 because I do like it and all of my conversions and tool heads would fit. I even thought about getting the casefeeder for my volume caliber press. Then I started looking at the difference in price between a 550 with a case feeder and a 650 with a case feeder and saw that there wasn't much of a difference and so the seed of the 650 was planted in my head. I then went and tried out my friend's 650 and lets just say that I am hooked. My question is about the caliber conversions, I plan to get the 650 in 38 supercomp but I also want to be able to load 40 and 9. I know with the 550 the shell plate for the 9 and 40 is the same, and the powder funnel for the 38 and the 9mm is the same, so on a 550 I would only have to get a 40 conversion to load all three. Would this be the same on the 650? I guess the potential problem would be in the case feed adapters. Would the adapter for 38 supercomp be the same for 9mm? Thanks - Jeremy

Thanks for the replies guys. The Dawson spring is on the way so I guess I'll just have to wait and see if it is longer when it gets here. If not I'll look into that SVI spring.

Thank You, I feel a little dumb, but I am much relieved. I just placed an order to Dawson and hopefully I can get through the rest of this build without inventing any more problems that aren't really there. - Jeremy

I am in the process of building a Limited gun using a Para Ordnance gunsmith frame kit. Unfortunately I have hit a snag and I am posting this partially to vent, but mostly to see if anyone else has run across this before and/or has any suggestions for how to remedy it. Basically the problem is that the "notch" in the frame, under the mainspring housing that the "tab" of the sear spring fits into is too low and the sear spring won't reach the sear or the disconector. I have tried several sear springs from other guns, as well as several different brands of new, untouched, springs, and none will work. I checked my set of 1911 blueprints and found the the "notch" was supposed to be .420 from the center of the mainspring pin, mine measures .308, a .112 difference that seems to jive with about how far up the sear spring should go to function correctly. My options, as I see them, are as follows: The first option is to call up Para Ord and see if they will replace the frame since it obviously has a manufacturing defect that won't allow it to function. The problem with this is that I have already fit the slide, bull barrel, made the para ramp cut, machined the bottom of the frame for a S&A magwell, among other things. In short, I have a lot of work into this frame and a lot of expensive parts that are fit to this particular frame. Getting a new frame has some appeal in getting Para to fix their mistake, but I'm not sure that it is worth it. That is even assuming that they would replace it. I bought this frame kit from a local gunshop that had it on consignment and I don't know how that combined with some of the machine work done to the frame figures into Para's perception of thier warranty responsibilities. The second option is to suck it up, tig weld the original notch, buy a 1/32 end mill, and make a new notch. This is probably what I will end up doing, but I think that it sucks because I think that it goes a little beyond what I should have to do to build this gun, and because it is more than likely that I will break at least one end mill trying to cut a slot that small. The third option is probably just a pipe dream, but what the hell... Does anyone know if there is such a thing as an extra long sear spring? This would obviously be the easiest and best solution. Anyway, thanks for letting me vent and hopefully there is someone out there with a good idea or some advice, or even just a "that sucks dude". Oh, actually I just thought of the best option yet, I call up Para and they agree to send me a S_I frame. - Jeremy

Thinking about getting one of these but there is a post further up that says that it would not work with his Para. Has anyone else found this to be the case? Thanks - Jeremy

Just a little FYI on the 1/4" Luan plywood, most of it is made with interior glue, meaning that if left out in the weather it will soon delaminate and be worthless. However, there are exterior grades of Luan that are availible that will stand up to the weather, usually they will need to be special ordered, but in the long run are worth the effort. Price isn't too bad either, I just ordered 10 sheets for my club for $14.40 a sheet.

Hey guys - Just got my first Open gun yesterday and man am I psyched. This forum is great, I can't belive how much information is here. Thanks to all the veterans for passing their knowledge on to us noobs. Anyway, a** kissing aside, I was wondering what affect this 50/50 Peroxide/Vinegar lead remover would have on bluing?