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Glock Swap


KAL

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Has anybody purchased a slide and barrel to swap their G35 or G34 back and forth. Is it cost effective. I would like to shoot both and thought if I could save a couple bucks I would. I can get a new 35 for $549 so If a slide and tube are close to that I might as well get the whole other gun. Any thoughts?

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Because 34 and 35's go for a about 100 bucks more than the standard Glocks. I guess it must be that Ext. mag realease button, And the not quite a 1/2 inch longer barrel with slide lightened. I was looking more towards a aftermarket set up for .40. Although it now seems like it will not be worth the money to try to go that way.

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KAL, before I started reloading the .40 cal, I went the cheap route for practice ammo and bought a 9mm conversion barrel for my 35. It worked out great since 9mm el cheapo ammo costs 1/2 of the cheapest 40 cal that I could find. The only caveat to this was stove piped jams of up to 5% of the time since the 40 cal extractor didn't quite have enough bite on the 9mm case, but I looked at it as good built-in weapon clearing practice. The barrel and 3-10 rounders mags cost me a whopping total of $197.

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I purchased the KKM 9 mm conversion barrel and picked up a 9mm Glock clip and my 35 now shoots 9mm with out any problems (so far). The ejector will help your forehead out because with the 40 cal ejector and the stock spring/guide rod setup guess where the brass flies. I used a 13 lb spring in a captured guide rod and had no more black marks on my forehead from the brass. Check out KKM's website http://www.kkmprecision.com/Prod.asp?SubCatID=6

Jim

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  • 4 weeks later...

FFK

The 40 barrels actually have a larger OD than the 9mm's which is why you can go from 40 to 9 but not from 9 to 40. Also the 40's use a "reinforced" (3rd pin) locking block for additional strength. Some of the new 9's have this design but none of the older ones.

If you want a 40 my suggestion would be to buy a used/police trade in 22. Also I seem to remember that Flex said he bought his 35 reconditioned, he might give you some clues of where to look.

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  • 2 months later...

New shooter,

I own a G23 also and was eventually going to get a 9mm barrel for it.

After reading your post I took off the top ends on both my G23 and G26.

It appears that the ejector on the 9mm is bent in and the .40 cal is straight.

Number 1882 on the G23's ejector and number 336 on the G26's ejector.

Not sure what that means. :blink:

But if you were going to put on a complete G19 top end I'd think you'd

just have to change out the ejector and mags.

Glocks are so simple. :D

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Hey no problemo man. :)

Since you're putting a G19 top end on a G23 frame I don't think you

have to change the locking block. Especially if you have the newer

version with the finger grooves. As stated earlier, the recent .40 cal

frames are beefed up with a 3rd pin.

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  • 5 months later...

I'm joining the Res. Police Department, and I need a GLOCK .40 cal. I 'm looking to buy a G22 or G35, however, I have one of the GSSF G17. Can I put a G35 upper on it, and have it work with no prombles? What are the P & Q's to this?

Thanks,

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Kevin

You can go from 40 to 9mm, but I would not go the other way.

The 40 frames are designed with an extra pin to hold the locking block in place. The old 9 frames don't have this extra pin. I was told the newest 9 frames do have the pin. So to a large extent, it would depend on whether the extra pin was in your 17.

Don't get me wrong you could still swap top ends even if your frame doesn't have the extra pin you will just be giving your 17 frame more of a beating than it was designed to handle. On the other hand, it has been said the 40 recoil spring is too light anyway, but competition shooters will install a 13 lb spring on a 40 it make it run flatter.

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