340PD or 360PD

[Tom Mainus]

Looking to get something a little lighter and smaller for travel purpose. Hauling around my full size Kimber is a pain. What can you highly educated revolver people tell me about these two guns? The only difference I see is the one doesn't have a hammer which I like, but is that a good thing or not? Can you still lighten up the action on the hammerless gun? Are there any other things that the hammerless gun is known for, problems etc.

Tom

[Wildman]

Concealed or hammerless is the way to go. Standard carry trigger job will slick it a bit, and the 340 will not hang-up as easily on the draw. Forces the use of intentional double action only pull, which in most areas is a good thing.

[vrmn1]

Don't shoot Corbon ammo in them. Nothing against Corbon, it is great ammo but sticks in the chambers, something you don't want in a gun to save your butt.

Recoil is FAST but not bad. Not enough weight to build any momentum. I like them.

I don't know about the trigger on the hammerless gun.

[festus1]

Ihave had a 340 since it came out. I'd recomend the enclosed hammer 340 because there is no worry about snagging and I can't imagine a situation where you'd want to use it single action. I have had the action smoothed up by a local smith and it is not too bad. I have several Randy Lee guns and if you had him do your 340 I'm sure it would be even better. I have shot 2 inch groups at 12 yds with it (that was a slow fire string for sure though!). Federal 357 Personal Defense 130 grain hydra-shock ammo goes just under 1200 fps over the chrono even after having the barrel magnaported. The box lists the ammo at 1300 fps. The recoil is not pleasant, but if you grit your teeth and go it is not too bad for 10 rounds or so. With light 38's it is not bad too bad to practice with . I had the lock removed and the hole plugged so no worries of unintended locking. The front sight is from Trijicon and I put a stainless cyl in it. Now you can buy it that way with a stainless cyl and tritium front as the "M&P" model. The magnaporting does help a good bit and as far as flame, it is not much more than is there with the stock barrel. I have shot it at night and with a good flashlight seeing after a shot is fine. Without a good light though it is like a camera flash in a dark room. It is very easy to tote around - no excuses for not having a gun.

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/Fes...nt=IMG_2239.jpg

[Tom Mainus]

Ihave had a 340 since it came out. I'd recomend the enclosed hammer 340 because there is no worry about snagging and I can't imagine a situation where you'd want to use it single action. I have had the action smoothed up by a local smith and it is not too bad. I have several Randy Lee guns and if you had him do your 340 I'm sure it would be even better. I have shot 2 inch groups at 12 yds with it (that was a slow fire string for sure though!). Federal 357 Personal Defense 130 grain hydra-shock ammo goes just under 1200 fps over the chrono even after having the barrel magnaported. The box lists the ammo at 1300 fps. The recoil is not pleasant, but if you grit your teeth and go it is not too bad for 10 rounds or so. With light 38's it is not bad too bad to practice with . I had the lock removed and the hole plugged so no worries of unintended locking. The front sight is from Trijicon and I put a stainless cyl in it. Now you can buy it that way with a stainless cyl and tritium front as the "M&P" model. The magnaporting does help a good bit and as far as flame, it is not much more than is there with the stock barrel. I have shot it at night and with a good flashlight seeing after a shot is fine. Without a good light though it is like a camera flash in a dark room. It is very easy to tote around - no excuses for not having a gun.

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/Fes...nt=IMG_2239.jpg

Why did you put a stainless steel cylinder in it? Was the recoil to much with the Ti cylinder. I would think you would want it as light as possible for carry. Thanks for the info, that is what I waslooking for.

Tom

[AustinMike]

I've got a 360PD and I like it. Truth be told, I'd rather have the hammerless model, but I saw the 360PD in a used gun display case for $450. Looked like it had never been shot, still had some factory grease on it. No idea why it was so cheap, other than the dealer said he didn't have the box for it - like I care. It followed me home and my wife said I could keep it as long as I took care of it. I carry this gun most of the time, but sometimes I carry a Glock 23. I like the little J-frame because it's light and easier to conceal. I often carry it in the front pocket of 5-11 pants in an Uncle Mike's pocket holster. The holster covers the hammer and when I draw, I've trained myself to cover the hammer with my thumb just to make sure there are no snags. Lots of practice draws and no snags. I also sometimes use an IWB holster, again with no snag issues. My only complaint is the stupid Hi-Viz front sight. A night sight would have been a better choice in my opinion, but I've yet to find one anywhere.

I carry with the Speer Gold Dot 135gr .38 +P loads, which were designed for snub nosed revos. I tried a few .357 loads, all of which were, shall we say, unpleasant to shoot, to say the least. Due to excessive recoil, extreme noise, and blinding flash, I personally don't feel that .357 is a good choice for a 2in barreled gun. I'm not a ballistics expert, but I'd venture to guess that a lot of the energy of full power .357 loads is wasted as a lot of powder is burning outside of the barrel, as evidenced by huge fireballs. Given the short length of barrel to burn in, I think a hot .38 load is just fine.

[Carmoney]

Everybody needs a nice J-frame for the pocket!

I owned and carried a 340SC for several years, but wound up selling it. I've shot lots of hard-kicking guns, but the recoil with full-house .357s through this little gun was torturous.

So I just went back to my old 80's-vintage Model 38 Bodyguard Airweight nickel, and couldn't be happier. As long as you don't go crazy with it, the older airweight Smiths will handle +P .38 loads just fine. (Actually, I use the Winchester 110-grain +P+ Treasury loads in mine.)

[shred]

Personally I think the 3-series guns are actually a little too light-- great for carry, but it's so not-fun to practice with them that I rarely do. There's a reason a bunch of them with only one cylinderful through them are for sale.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Ihave had a 340 since it came out. I'd recomend the enclosed hammer 340 because there is no worry about snagging and I can't imagine a situation where you'd want to use it single action. I have had the action smoothed up by a local smith and it is not too bad. I have several Randy Lee guns and if you had him do your 340 I'm sure it would be even better. I have shot 2 inch groups at 12 yds with it (that was a slow fire string for sure though!). Federal 357 Personal Defense 130 grain hydra-shock ammo goes just under 1200 fps over the chrono even after having the barrel magnaported. The box lists the ammo at 1300 fps. The recoil is not pleasant, but if you grit your teeth and go it is not too bad for 10 rounds or so. With light 38's it is not bad too bad to practice with . I had the lock removed and the hole plugged so no worries of unintended locking. The front sight is from Trijicon and I put a stainless cyl in it. Now you can buy it that way with a stainless cyl and tritium front as the "M&P" model. The magnaporting does help a good bit and as far as flame, it is not much more than is there with the stock barrel. I have shot it at night and with a good flashlight seeing after a shot is fine. Without a good light though it is like a camera flash in a dark room. It is very easy to tote around - no excuses for not having a gun.

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/Fes...nt=IMG_2239.jpg

Why did you put a stainless steel cylinder in it? Was the recoil to much with the Ti cylinder. I would think you would want it as light as possible for carry. Thanks for the info, that is what I waslooking for.

Tom

I am just getting ready to put a stainless cylinder in my airlite ty hammerless. I find the rounds stick too much when shooting magnums making it a five shot only gun. Also the MagNaPorting really tames these little beasts.

Edit to add: The 5 shot moon clip conversion was nice, but I would not do it again. Very difficult to carry the spares and not bend the clips. Safariland speed loaders work just as good.

Edited July 1, 2007 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[festus1]

Ihave had a 340 since it came out. I'd recomend the enclosed hammer 340 because there is no worry about snagging and I can't imagine a situation where you'd want to use it single action. I have had the action smoothed up by a local smith and it is not too bad. I have several Randy Lee guns and if you had him do your 340 I'm sure it would be even better. I have shot 2 inch groups at 12 yds with it (that was a slow fire string for sure though!). Federal 357 Personal Defense 130 grain hydra-shock ammo goes just under 1200 fps over the chrono even after having the barrel magnaported. The box lists the ammo at 1300 fps. The recoil is not pleasant, but if you grit your teeth and go it is not too bad for 10 rounds or so. With light 38's it is not bad too bad to practice with . I had the lock removed and the hole plugged so no worries of unintended locking. The front sight is from Trijicon and I put a stainless cyl in it. Now you can buy it that way with a stainless cyl and tritium front as the "M&P" model. The magnaporting does help a good bit and as far as flame, it is not much more than is there with the stock barrel. I have shot it at night and with a good flashlight seeing after a shot is fine. Without a good light though it is like a camera flash in a dark room. It is very easy to tote around - no excuses for not having a gun.

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/Fes...nt=IMG_2239.jpg

Why did you put a stainless steel cylinder in it? Was the recoil to much with the Ti cylinder. I would think you would want it as light as possible for carry. Thanks for the info, that is what I waslooking for.

Tom

I bought the 640 J frame cyl so that I could use the gun while I sent off the Ti cyl to get cut for moon clips (which I haven't gotten around to doing yet). The steel cyl only adds about 2 ozs of weight vs. the Ti cyl but it is easier to clean. The main reason I chose a 357 version of the J frame is that you don't have to worry about ammo selection and for me it will use what my primary L frame carry gun uses so speed strips w/ 357's will feed either gun.

Here are the numbers when I tested some 38 +P UMC, 38+P Speer, 357 short barrel Speer, and Federal 357 personal defense low recoil 130 gr ammo in my magnaported 340 and non ported 3" 66. I shot 5 rounds of each in both guns.

UMC 38+P 125 gr.

340 = low: 818 high: 837 ave: 825

66 = low: 857 high: 928 ave: 898

Speer 38+P 135 gr Gold Dot

340 = low: 840 high: 859 ave: 851

66 = low: 915 high: 956 ave: 939

Speer 357 short barrel 135 gr. Gold Dot

340 = low: 867 high: 944 ave: 909

66 = low: 972 high: 1044 ave: 1028

Federal Prem. 357 Personal Defense Low Recoil

130 gr. Hydra Shock

340 = low: 1067 high: 1178 ave: 1109

66 = low: 1268 high: 1332 ave: 1294

[Barrettone]

Hey Tom,

I carry the 340 PD airweight, and I must say that it is an excellent choice. In the summer, I just drop it in my pocket holster and go. The recoil is a bit much, but as they say: "A gun only does you any good if you have it on you." So, rather than carry my G26 every now and again due to its weight, I ALWAYS have me trusty 5 shot and a Bianci speed strip in my front pocket. They say most gun fights are over in 4-5 rounds, and if you haven't hit your mark by then, you are probably dead anyway. That in mind, I opted for the 340. The absence of a hammer insures that I don't snag on my pocket when drawing it, and I can practice with 38's and load up the full-house .357's for concealed carry. I use the Federal Personal Defense 130's with the Hydra Shock bullet as well, and they run quite nicely. I only run 5 of them through the gun after a practice session of 50 rounds of 38's. Gives me the feel and lets me know what to anticipate without having to punish myself the entire time at the range. All in all, a damn good pocket rocket!!!!!

Edited July 2, 2007 by Barrettone

[Bill Nesbitt]

I recently switched from a model 37 S&W with a bobbed hammer to a Kel-Tech P-11 9mm. Carries just as easy if not easier in a front pocket.

I know it's not a revolver but the trigger is double action only like a revolver. Sort of.

edit for spelling.

Edited July 2, 2007 by Bill Nesbitt

[DougCarden]

I carry an aluminum Bodyguard daily, for the last 11 years. It was a welcome switch from the stainless 940 I carried. I picked up a 340 and put it back down. People that know me know I am not recoil sensitive. I have no desire to buy a gun that is twice as much as a Bodyguard that will hurt me with Duty ammo. The hammerless guns have a ledge in the back that smacks my thumb, and I can only imagine what the Scandium would do. If they made a Bodyguard in scandium I might consider it, but the aluminum gets carried every day, no problems here. Just something to consider....

DougC

[High Plains Drifter]

Everybody needs a nice J-frame for the pocket! smile.gif (especially for dispatching wounded deer) eh Mike ???

Tom,

I also carry a 340 stoked full of corbon 125 JHP's and a speed strip in the "other pocket !!!!

Duty type trigger job r e a l l y....smooth.

I had it Magna ported and it is very comfortable to shoot now...... Oh !!! I was warned that the porting would blind me if I "had" to shoot it in the dark..... The reality is I practice with it in near total darkness on a weekly basis (benefit of working at an indoor range) and the barrel cylinder gap flash is much greater than the small flash from the porting !!!!!!!!

Funny, just today I was told that carrying a revolver as a personal protection gun was putting myself in danger because I was only carrying 5 rounds ??? Knowing that mine was in my pocket I asked to see what "they" were carrying......mmmmmmm well it appears they left it at home ???? :surprise: huh ??

OBTW..... never never never have had Corbon stick in my 340....YMMV

You will like the 340

Kevin

Edited July 2, 2007 by High Plains Drifter

[dgarrity]

tom you might want to consider taurus total titanium in 45,this is what i have been carrying for about a year now,it shoot great,recoil is not that bad and it is really light

[Carmoney]

Everybody needs a nice J-frame for the pocket! smile.gif (especially for dispatching wounded deer) eh Mike ???

Did I tell you that story, Kevin?? Hopefully the statute of limitations has run.....

[Keith]

I happen to have my 442 in my front pocket right now. But, I am looking into one of the new M&P 340's. It's a little lighter and it has the front night sight. I'm just not sure about putting many .357's through it.

[Tom E]

If you're just going to use it as a carry gun, buy a 642 and spend the money you saved on some grips that fit your hand well enough that you can point shoot with it. J frame sights are terrible. If you're going to shoot snubby matches with it, buy a steel version like a 640. Much better to put some rounds thru. An original .38 640 went everywhere with me for years along with a 3" 629 in the console. Speedloaders in the cup holders are an interesting conversation piece. Tom

[dirtypool40]

Everybody needs a nice J-frame for the pocket!

I agree, just don't tell anyone I'm a round gunnner.

I've carried my lil' 11 ouncer like car keys or a cell phone every day the last five years. If I am going to carry a gun, then I strap on one of several 1911's IN ADDITION to the .38.

If I don't feel like caryring, lazy, liberal streak whatever, then I just take the lil' Smythe.

[Rogan]

The hammerless model will be better for concealed carry. Easier to draw and rides nicer no matter which concealment system you use. If you chose a small 5 shot revolver, get one with contrasting sights. By that I mean, get one that has a front sight of a different material or color than the rear sight notch. I've assisted/instructed several shooters who owned the 642 version and had difficulty seeing the sights. The front post is fixed/machined as part of the barrel, which means it's the same color as the fixed rear sight notch, making it very difficult to differentiate between the two sights and therefore more difficult and slow to shoot accurately.

Yes, you can paint the front sight, but I've seen the paint rub off. I think the models with pinned front sights are more shooter friendly and allow you the option of picking the front sight that works best for you.

Others might argue that you don't need to see the sights, since it's a "point and shoot, I'm so close I can't miss" type of weapon, but I still want usuable sights on all my guns.

[Tom E]

You can never be too close to miss. I shot an ipsc stage once, with a table, box, T-1 at 10 feet. Hole in uprange side of box just big enough to get your hand in, downrange side open, 4" S&W model 19 in box. At the beep, reach in box, grab the gun, and try to put six rounds on target, gun in box not visible. Was very educational. Sorry if I got kind of off topic. Tom

[FL Wheeler]

Hi All:

I carry a 642 in a pocket holster and a speed strip. I have never had to use it and I hope I never do. I cut a few coils off the rebound spring to make the action a little lighter. I was told by my local gunsmith that you should never modify your carry gun. He said some low life lawyer that defends dirt bags that try to kill people can turn a case against you because you have a gun that has been set up especially to kill people and that is the only reason you carry it.

I'm not sure of the merit in this statement, maybe Mike can ring here as a lawyer on the good side. As far as sights go you better be able to hit your target by point shooting with one hand because you will not have a lot of time to aim with both hands and you will probably be less than 15 feet away. Don't worry about the trigger pull or the recoil. If you have to use your gun in a bad situation, there will so much adrenalin you will not feel either

Bob

[shred]

The hammerless model will be better for concealed carry. Easier to draw and rides nicer no matter which concealment system you use. If you chose a small 5 shot revolver, get one with contrasting sights. By that I mean, get one that has a front sight of a different material or color than the rear sight notch. I've assisted/instructed several shooters who owned the 642 version and had difficulty seeing the sights. The front post is fixed/machined as part of the barrel, which means it's the same color as the fixed rear sight notch, making it very difficult to differentiate between the two sights and therefore more difficult and slow to shoot accurately.

Yes, you can paint the front sight, but I've seen the paint rub off. I think the models with pinned front sights are more shooter friendly and allow you the option of picking the front sight that works best for you.

Others might argue that you don't need to see the sights, since it's a "point and shoot, I'm so close I can't miss" type of weapon, but I still want usuable sights on all my guns.

Long ago I won a certificate from Ashley Outdoors and spent it on a big-dot tritium front sight for my 342. It makes it a lot easer to find at night on a table and if the big round ball is on the target, it's a hit far enough out to be useful.

[slflr]

Tom,

This morning I found a crack in the frame of my 340PD, just below where the barrel screws into the frame. I wonder what SW will say about that.

[AustinMike]

Tom,

This morning I found a crack in the frame of my 340PD, just below where the barrel screws into the frame. I wonder what SW will say about that.

That stinks, but I'm sure they'll take care of you. Do you shoot a lot magnum loads through yours? Your threshold for pain must be pretty high if you do!