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Gun Safe Purchase


Rob Bartley

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I am looking to purchase a gun safe. I have read the posts that indicate they will only keep out the "honest" criminal (read smash and grab), but really are only bumps in the road for a professional. I am mostly concerned with two-bit theives and really don't think a pro would pay me a visit. My local Gander MTN has Liberty and Timber Ridge (by Liberty). A local dealer also carries Cannon. Any thoughts on which is better buck for buck. It appears as though the Timber Ridge is the same as the Liberty Colonial Series and is about $200 less ($899 vs. $1099 for a 23 cubic foot model). I don't have current pricing on Cannon yet. Any thoughts? is there better for the money? Thanks.

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I've got a nice Cannon with an electronic lock.....love it. Nice fire rating, heavy bolts, secured to the floor.....I sleep much better when I'm away knowing my guns and valuables are secure.

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Whatever you get, make sure you buy the next size bigger than you THINK you need. Better yet, if they make two sizes bigger, get that one.

+1 on that.

Its easy to get one to small as they dont hold near what they are advertized at, also you will end up keeping all sorts of things in there besides your guns for fire and theft prevention.

Take a look at fire ratings, also take off the inner door cover while shopping to see the insides and what you are really buying.

Figure the cost of moving into your price, its worth paying someone for a decent size safe.

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A gun safe might hold what they say it will, but only if you really never want to get out he ones int he rear!

I have three, all too small. I am seriously thinking of either building a vault or buying a really large two door safe and building it in. Measure your longest barrelled rifle and then buy a safe that will allow two rows of hand guns above that if you can. Certainly a 72" tall unit is better than a 60". Wider and deeper is also better. Fire rating is questionable. You lose a lot of room, but you might save your collection. Question is, is it insured? What else are you protecting? If you have a lot of valuable papers and computer disks, then that stuff is usually irreplacable whereas your collection for the most part can be replaced.

Essentials: two sizes bigger! Good lock, check the relockers and drill plates. Warning, certain safes will relock if tampered with and then the only way in is break in. It is the failsecure as opposed to failsafe design. You do want this for ultimate security.

Jim

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Yes all the affordable safes are just road "bumps" to a pro.

I bought a Cannon safe. They have a really good warranty.

http://www.cannonsafe.com/warrantyinfo.nxg

Compare Cannon's warranty it with the other brands.

If I was in your shoes I'd pick a max price with delivery and any installation costs (bolting to the floor and/or installing the dehumidifier) included. Then get the biggest one that will fit in the space you have.

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A little advice, if you have the space you may be better off with two smaller safes rather thatn one big safe. Simply it is twice the effort for a thief to breaak into two safes than one. Also, if yo go with two safes, put the lesser value guns in the safe nearer the door, the thief will likely go to that safe first.

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A little advice, if you have the space you may be better off with two smaller safes rather thatn one big safe. Simply it is twice the effort for a thief to breaak into two safes than one. Also, if yo go with two safes, put the lesser value guns in the safe nearer the door, the thief will likely go to that safe first.

The only problem with this approach is that it is easier to carry off one or two small safes than a single big safe. Best bet is two large safes :).

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I have a Cannon with the electronic lock and I'm very satisfied with it. It is a large one and weighs about 800lbs so I'm not worried about a burglary issue. I'm a police officer and I can tell you that most residential burglaries occur during the day and items stolen are usually easy to conceal on a person or in a car (money, credit cards, medication, guns, jewelry, tools, and whatever else the scumbags can fit on them). If you get a smaller safe then I would suggest you bolt it to the floor or a stud in the wall and conceal it somwhere. If a burglar is suprised by it, it is less likely they will have the tools with them to defeat it. Like already stated in another reply, you will more than likely find yourself putting all kinds of other things in it besides guns. I would go large, fire resistant and if possible concealed somewhere in your home.

Got mine from AG English.

Gary

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A couple pieces of advice I was glad to get: Get one size bigger than you think you need. And, get the combo style lock instead of the electronic lock. When I was shopping for safes, many dealers told me that the electronic locks were the vast majority of service/warranty items that customers made claims on.

I bought a Herritage Safe (Tradition series, 30x60x25) and recommend you look at their products. It looks like they've got many dealers in NY, not sure how close you are to them. Mine is comparable to the Liberty Lincoln 30x60.5x24.5, but was a few hundred $ cheaper. I would recommend you look at their products. I liked that the door was solid 3/8" plate steel and the body is 1/8". Cannon, Liberty, and others use thinner 12 or 10 gauge sheet metal for the body and door (of models of similar price to mine, ~$1600). It is definitely one of the best purchases I've ever made. The peace of mind is well worth the money.

Edit: Oops, I forgot that 10 gauge is 0.135" thick, and 1/8 is 0.125". So a 10 gauge body is great, but most novice theives attack the door. I still like my 3/8" solid door.

hope that helps,

splashdown

Edited by splashdown
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A couple pieces of advice I was glad to get: Get one size bigger than you think you need. And, get the combo style lock instead of the electronic lock. When I was shopping for safes, many dealers told me that the electronic locks were the vast majority of service/warranty items that customers made claims on.

Talk to the electronic lock vendors at the Shot show, and you'll hear two interesting answers:

1. No, our locks don't fail and lock people out.

2. No, we will not pay for the service and repair of the safe if one of our electronic locks fail.

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I've got a Cannon safe and I love it. I like the action of the door and the way it locks. Simply close the door and the bolts automatically lock. What a great feature. I love this safe and when it's full I'll buy another one just a bit bigger.

Pete

photobucket002.jpg

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The advice about taking the front door pannel off is very good advice if the retailer will let you do it. You want to look for a lock cam system that will move all of the pins (a large portion of safes have a handle connected to a single lever that will just move the three bolts on the opening side of the door). This may go against conventional thinking but it is absolutly true, make sure your safe has external hinges. This has more to do with a truely improved fire rating and it will make the safe easier to move as the door can be easly detached (when the safe is open), that will lighten the load for you if you are relocating it. From a security stand point the external hinges are a good thing! You can take an angle grinder and cut off the hinges but the door will remain in place because of the bolts and the thickness of the door (you get a thicker door with external hinges) keep the door in place. Look into Browning/Pro Steel (certain models, careful what you get) or if you can really afford it a Fort Knox safe.

Phil

p.s. I used to sell them

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At least around here you could also go to the largest gun show nearest you and check out some of the manufacturers who show up. The Cannon distributor was there. I also got to check out Fort Knox safes that way and ended up buying one. Very expensive. Incredible warranties and tradeins.

I got the electronic lock. If a thief unsuccesfully tries to break in and ruins the lock they will come out and replace for free. Same if it breaks. If I want to trade up I get a 80% trade in value. They delivered and installed it including bolting it down.

+1 on the bolting down too. There are examples around here of bigger safes then mine being cabled, tipped over, and drug out of the garage. At which point the thiefs decided that maybe it was to heavy for them to haul it off cause they probably couldn't get into it anyway. Not the sharpest knives in the drawer as it where.

--bjet

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+2 on what Sestock said. It seems difficult to buy one big enough when everything inside keeps breeding, so two are better than one. I like Cannon and the warranty is awesome. Besides something in the 700-900lb range can be moved if necessary (not easily mind you) whereas a super safe is stuck where it is. Always bolt them to the floor.

edit: As for pricing heres an idea. I bought from him and got a deal on a blemished model. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZgotsafesQQhtZ-1

Edited by rwmagnus
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If you want security, fire rating and all around peace of mind go with a Ft. Knox

Think about what you really are protecting......

An $800.00 to $1500.00 Safe holding an average shooters fire arms collection let say $10,000.00 to $20,000.00 in guns.

Don't skimp on this.

+100 on Bolting it down. If you will have it on a slab I would not use anything less than 1/2" x 4" concrete anchors.

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A couple pieces of advice I was glad to get: Get one size bigger than you think you need. And, get the combo style lock instead of the electronic lock. When I was shopping for safes, many dealers told me that the electronic locks were the vast majority of service/warranty items that customers made claims on.

Talk to the electronic lock vendors at the Shot show, and you'll hear two interesting answers:

1. No, our locks don't fail and lock people out.

2. No, we will not pay for the service and repair of the safe if one of our electronic locks fail.

Not a good sales pitch. :unsure:

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