Rob Bartley

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will let you know what I go with.

I am looking to purchase a gun safe. I have read the posts that indicate they will only keep out the "honest" criminal (read smash and grab), but really are only bumps in the road for a professional. I am mostly concerned with two-bit theives and really don't think a pro would pay me a visit. My local Gander MTN has Liberty and Timber Ridge (by Liberty). A local dealer also carries Cannon. Any thoughts on which is better buck for buck. It appears as though the Timber Ridge is the same as the Liberty Colonial Series and is about $200 less ($899 vs. $1099 for a 23 cubic foot model). I don't have current pricing on Cannon yet. Any thoughts? is there better for the money? Thanks.

You know, I am relatively new to this game and have only been seriously shooting (non-competatively) for a year. If the gun or the cartridges were the problem, then why do they work fine with every other mag that I own, and every other round (other than the first) in the Wilsons???? It does not make sense that the cartridges or the gun are faulty...

The first round out of the magazine, after I shoot the one in the pipe, does not feed completly into the chamber, and the slide does not go into battery. After I clear this round the remainder cycle without any problem.

I disagree, I think it's purely old-school thinking that makes people think they need to use 7-rounders for carry. Factory hardball (or any non +P defense loads that are the equivalent of hardball) just isn't all that hot. I shot Wolf factory hardball the last several years in single stack matches all over the place (including two Single Stack Classics). It's fairly mild stuff. My current Single Stack load just chronoed 179 p.f. at the WI Sectional yesterday, making it approximately equivalent to most factory hardball (traditionally a 230 gr. load marketed at 825-850 that actually goes somewhat under 800 fps). Have you changed anything about your ammo? You gotta watch using plated bullets, some guns don't like them. I briefly owned one pistol (an XD-45 Tactical) that shot anything I fed it except it would choke nearly every round with plated bullets (which are quite soft compared to hard cast or jacketed). I would be very curious to know how your gun functions with something other than those plated bullets. (By the way, plated bullets work great in my revolvers, I shoot lots of 'em!) After I purchased a press, this load is the only load I have shot. This is the same load that has been running well in the 7 round mags.

What kind of target do you shoot at when you are practicing? Do you buy USPSA/IPSC targets, shoot at steel/paper...?

I have not shot full house .45 with the magazines. I don't know exactly the power factor of my loads since I have yet to chronograph them (no chronograph at the match yesterday). I know it should be close to 165-170 PF being 4.0 Clays and 230 gr. Rainers. I will keep them loaded, and keep shooting them to break them in. Thanks for the help.

Shot my first local shoot this weekend and had a blast! However, the mags are still acting up. I had three FTF's in five stages with the Wilson's. I hope they loosen up soon.

Thanks...I will give that a try. I thought the issue might go away with use of the mags.

Actually they are the first or second round. Can it be that the spring is too strong? I have also noticed that releasing the slide lock is more difficult than with the other 7 round mags.

So I finally picked up a couple Wilson 8 rounders about a week and a half ago. I have a Kimber and have never had any malfunctions with my Kimber mag or two old military mags that I have...never. Since using the Wilson's I have had a couple FTF's. The Wilson mags have been loaded since I have owned them. Any thoughts?

They look great...how did you make them if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks for the info. I have a few clubs near me and really see no need to spend money that I need for ammo on different club memberships. I will join USPSA however. Thanks again

I want to start shooting competatively this season. I have not yet become a member of a shooting club yet; I am fortunate enough to be able to shoot in my back yard. My question is this. Do I need to be a member at the local club level for each shoot and USPSA to compete? How does this normally work?

I went to my local gunsmith who had only Wolf springs. I purchased one and compared it to the original in my gun. The old spring was a half inch shorter so I replaced it. I will purchase a couple new ISMI springs to have on hand and replace as needed. Thanks for all of your help.

I shoot 230 over 4.0 gr Clays. I have reloaded the same "set" of brass around 10 times. I reload on a Dillon SDB and find the primers go in nearly effortlessly. Cases are a mix of Win., Fed., and UMC. What issues will I run in to due to the primer pocket not being as tight as lets say a new piece of brass or one that has not been loaded that many times? What signs will I see?

I like the Rainer plated 230 gr RN. I like the idea that I am not handling all of that lead. I just ordered 1000 from Cabella's; $80.11 shipped. I might have missed something in all of the posts, but I think this is the cheapest for plated bullets.

How many times do you reload .45 brass before throwing it out? Do you shoot it until it cracks?

I called Kimber today. They told me that the recoil springs were 16 lbs. and needed to be replaced every 1500 rounds. I like the idea of comparing spring length and will probably base replacement on this. They also indicated that the main spring and firing pin spring need replacement every 5000 rounds. Does this sound right?

Thanks for all of the information. My Kimber is a Stainless Steel Target II in .45. I guess it is time to change the spring, but I am new to this. I know how to change it, but "trim to length"? Do I need to trim it, or just install it. If a stock spring, 18 lbs. on a Kimber I think, is over sprung what weight should I change to? What are the benifits of lighter springs? To my way of thinking, the lighter the spring the shorter the lifespan of the spring and protection to the gun??? Like I said, I am new to this so if I am all wet tell me so. I guess I should also add that I shoot a 230gr. Rainer ahead of 4.0 gr. of Clays. Thanks.

I shoot a Kimber 1911 and was wondering when I need to start thinking about replacing the recoil spring. What signs should I look for? I have shot about 2500 rounds with no observed problems yet. Thanks

I guess it would have been a good idea for me to indicate what my plans were. I am just starting and will be shooting a Kimber 1911 in USPSA. Probably in the Single Stack or Limited 10 Divisions (I think I got that right). I would also like to try IDPA; however, I think the closest events are about three hours away. There are some local USPSA events.

Thanks for all of the input. I have been reading the posts on this forum and decided on the CR over the Safariland. I will also need mag pouches. Are there any that will not fit this belt that I need to stay away from?

I am looking to purchase a belt and was wondering how wide the CR Spped Belt is. I have a Wilson Combat Practical holster that I would like to use with the belt that has 1.5 inch belt slots. Will the CR fit? Thanks. Where is the best place to buy the CR Speed Belt?

Thanks for all of the help. I will be ordering a SDB and looks like 4.0 Gr. of Clays...Thanks