Opinions Wanted On My Plan For Shooting Limited

[PLINK]

I am currently shooting the single stack class with my Springfield 1911 and want to start gearing up to shoot limited with my G35.

I have been doing a lot of research on a few different boards and received some advice from a few friends on this idea. I want to ask you guys what you think about my gun mods/ gear that I plan to getting soon.

G35 mods:

-Glockworx level III trigger

-Sights - undecided (any recommendations?). I think I want a fiber optic front, solid black rear. I would also like them to be around the same height as the stock sights if possible. I checked out Dawson's and I don't know which to get as far as the rear (.115 notch or wide notch).

-Barrel - KMM drop in. I will be reloading with a 155 grain or 180 grain moly coated bear creek bullets, still need to research reloads.

-magwell - Dawson ice - Heavy or standard?

-mag extensions - Dawson

-Someones tungsten guild rod/ recoil spring - I am not sure what the stock recoil spring is but I think I want to start with that spring rate. Any recommendations on what brand to get (guild rod/ spring).

Rig:

-CR speed belt

-CR speed versa mag pouches X3

-holster - undecided (Blade-tech DOH, a race type - ghost, CR speed, etc)

I appreciate any info, feed back or links you can provide. TIA

Edited April 23, 2007 by PLINK

[billdncn]

Trigger - I did my own trigger work. 3.25 lbs. with no stacking. Very nice if I do say so myself.

Sights - I use Dawson's adj. rear with there .100" X .285" f/o front. Very nice. No complaints. I just installed some Bomar (drop in) on my G17 also with Dawson's f/o front (same size), and I think I like the Bomar sight picture a little better. These do overhang the rear if the slide, which some don't like. For me I look at it as an extended sight picture

Barrel - I guess you want a KKM for shooting coated lead? I currently shoot Zero's 180gr JHP's, and they group under 1.5" at 25 with my factory barrel.

Magwell - I think this will be a matter of trial, and error. If you can, handle others and see which you like. I'm using a JP Enterprises (alum) because I sometimes use my G35 for IDPA ESP. I would like a larger opening, but other then that I really like it.

Mag extensions - I just installed 3ea. Arredondo's, but have yet to use them in a match. I don't know how they will hold up on concrete. Most of my shooting will be on grass, dirt, gravel. We'll see. A lot of people like the Dawson's too.

Rod, and spring - No experence with tungston. I'm using an extended steel rod (self made) with ISMI 13# spring. I think factory is 17#. This too is going to be trial, and error. Depends on your load, and what type of recoil you like. Of course reliablity is number 1 here.

Rig - I just got a CR Speed rig from Angus at Ghostholster. WSM II, 3ea. Versa mag pouches, and there Tourque belt. Love it. I can't compare it to others, with this being my 1st limited rig. No complaits at all. I have yet to use it in a match, but have done a lot of dry firing, and practicing at the range. Note; the holster came properly steup, and pretty much adjusted for my G35. No problems. The mags can move a little on the belt, but this has not bothered me yet. they come with wedges for security once properly positioned.

Hope this helps a little.

Bill

Edited April 23, 2007 by billdncn

[Micah]

Okay, here's my two cents:

Trigger-if you want to pay for this mod, get it right the first time and have Charlie Vanek take care of you with his Ultimate Trigger Job

Sights-I'm a HUGE fan of Heinie rears and a Dawson fiber optic front

Barrel-IF you're shooting non-jacketed stuff, the barrel is a great idea. If you are shooting jacketed ammo, save your money and skip the barrel. More people get duped into this money waster than anything else.

Mags-Arredondo you say? I wouldn't use anything else!

Magwell-You are behind the curve on Limited gun weight, so heavier=better

Rod/Spring-I'd suggest the THE Accessories tungsten extended guiderod and whatever spring from ISMI. Don't start cutting coils immediately.

Rig-Sounds right on point.

Best of luck to ya!

[dfwmiket]

When I was shooting a 35 in Limited, I had the THE Accessories brass magwell, tungsten guide rod w/ 15 lb. spring, Heine rear and Dawson fiber front sight, Arredondo basepads ( I did use Dawson, they are good too), TruGrip grip tape, and stock trigger. Used the rest of the cash for ammo.

I was shooting 4.3 Titegroup w/ 180 JHP and it wasn't bad. I switched to n320 but it isn't really more than personal choice. Good luck.

-Mike

[Joe D]

Keep the stock barrel. It is more accurate than you are. I use a 12# Wolf spring. I personally don't like the little thin front sights. The Heinie rear is OK. I like the Novak better. Another good choice is the Ameriglo rear. It is a fraction of the cost.

Arredondo pads work well also. I get 21+1 in my mags.

[Jman]

Trigger. Mine. Anything but stock is good.

Sights. Warren-Sevigny Comp. Simple. No distractions.

My eyes are aging. Distractions annoy me.

Barrel. Stock. 'Till it wears out.

Magwell. Seattle Slug. 3oz of pure inertia. Love it.

When round counts start averaging 40 or more I'll

re-install my 'speedy funnel'. Until then I can find

the sweet spot in a stage to perform 'the' reload.

Mag extensions. Dawson. I have Arredondos too. Like them.

I lose the tool. Then I like them not so much.

Recoil Spring and guide. Stock. Gaston got it perfect IMO.

Holster, belt and pouches. CR Speed

Jim

[DanM]

+1 on keeping the barrel stock. Mine's better than I am.

[Micah]

Used the rest of the cash for ammo.

-Mike

Keep the stock barrel. It is more accurate than you are.

Barrel. Stock. 'Till it wears out.

Jim

+1 on keeping the barrel stock. Mine's better than I am.

Wanna know how I know this isn't some other shooting forum? No bullshit answers solutions to problems that don't exist. I just had to point this out

[Flexmoney]

Grip tape

Warren/Sevigny sights

25 cent trigger job

Zero 180's and TG

Dawson mag pads.

lose the extended slide stop/release in favor of stock

That takes care of the gear.

Learn good technique. Make Grand Master.

[Micah]

lose the extended slide stop/release in favor of stock

That takes care of the gear.

Learn good technique. Make Grand Master.

Ahh sweet Moses, I forgot to mention that. Just that extended slide stop lever now before it starts funking with your shooting later.

And, of course, like Flex (Glock GM) Money said...practice practice practice

[billdncn]

Grip tape

Warren/Sevigny sights

25 cent trigger job

Zero 180's and TG

Dawson mag pads.

lose the extended slide stop/release in favor of stock

That takes care of the gear.

Learn good technique. Make Grand Master.

I agree with, and forgot Grip-Tape. I love it.

I also use Titegroup under my 180gr Zero's.

The factory extened slide stop can, and will get in the way of your grip. I have filled mine some, and need to do some more.

Auh yes....Technique. You are coming from a 1911 trigger to a Glock

With me, it's one or the other. They are really different. I, unlike others, can't switch back, and forth.

Glock for me G35 Limited/Limited 10. G17 IDPA/USPSA Production. G27 carry

[JFD]

I think you've got it about right. I went with Bomar rear and Dawson front sight.

Dawson extensions without a doubt. My most problematic mags (after trying 20 different tubes) have had Arredondo extensions. This is baseed on only 2 Arredondo extensions, so take it for what it's worth. The good thing about Arredondos is they work with the ICE magwell without modification (for me anyway).

I love my KKM barrel. Did I really need it? No

Did I really want it? Yes.

It's far more important IMHO to set up your gun in a way that makes you happy and confident than to save some money. I spent a fortune on golf clubs and 50% of the reason was that I'd never have to look in someone else's bag and think "I wish I had those". Much better to look in someone else's bag and think "those are crap".

If you don't have a strong opinion on the barrel, then stick with stock.

THE tungsten guide rod is a good one. I like a 13 lb ISMI spring with major loads.

I prefer the standard ICE magwell. While the tungsten guide rod gives me a hair more stability when shooting one the move (I normally shoot a heavy para), you may as well take advantage of the light, fast transitioning gun instead of trying to add weight to it with an expensive heavy magwell. I've tried one and it was a non-factor.

Without grip tape I have to regrip a Glock after every shot. Tru-Grip is a must-have item for me.

CR Speed belt, 773 mag pouches, and Ghost holster. The race holster will only give you maybe 0.10 on the draw, so the coolness factor has to be a big part of this purchase. I like skateboard tape on my slides, so carry holsters aren't for me. I also started USPSA with a Ghost, so I either use a Ghost or Guga Ribas.

I'm also guessing no 2 people will ever agree on the best way to set up a Glock for Limited, so take any advice with a grain of salt

[PLINK]

WOW. I am speachless. Thanks a lot!!!

You guys have really helped an I am glad I asked the questions here. I though I would have a better reponse here too. This is great.

So as for the barrel. I want to shoot a lead moly coated bullet that I can get locally for about $24.00 for 500. http://www.pathfindersports.com/p/pathfind...;CategoryID=523 I am not married to these bullets for .40 but the price is really good and getting them locally is a big plus. I use them in my 1911 and they work very well. This was one of the reason for the aftermarket barrel.

The second reason is the cases coming out of the stock barrel are a little buldged. 2/3 of the front half of the case look bulged and the back 1/3 looks to be like a unfired cased size. I thought that a KKM barrel would help cure that. I am currently using a Dillon 550B. I just ordered Dillon dies from Brian. I am going to use the Lee Factory Crimp die in stage four (this die is working really well for my 1911 loads). I also case guage every reload for match ammo quality control.

So I guess my questions are:

1. Can I reload the cases shot from my stock barrel with the dies I currently have coming? I hear the EGW U die really make the press harder to cycle and thins the body of the case.

2. If I can, should I be concerned about case failure due to resizing bulged cases? Can these cases be used more than once?

I know these questions open up cans of worms on other sites but if anyone is doing this it would be you guys.

My gun appears to be made in July 06 if that really means anything.

Most Glock shooters in my clubs do not reload .40 S&W.

Thanks again for everything.

Edited April 24, 2007 by PLINK

[sfinney]

I use a EGW U die to resize all my .40sw, most of it is once fired Glock brass..... it runs equally well in match 1911 barrels and factory Glock barrels after that.

The EGW U Die is your friend. Use it. Love it.

.40 will hold up to several loadings, bulged or not, if properly sized and loaded. Personally, I usually leave my .40 brass on the ground, and just buy more cheap range brass (unless I have a huge pile from a practice session)...... but others seem to load it many times just fine.

[Joe D]

I used the U/EGW die briefly. Did not like the hour glass shape it gave my bullets plus the extra effort required to size the case. I went with the standard Lee sizing die and never looked back.

[JFD]

I can't say for sure since I've used a EGW "U" die since day 1, but I don't think "glocked" brass would work very well in a tight KKM chamber.

The U die certainly makes the press harder to cycle, but it's not an issue if you use case lube. Brass from the KKM barrel would be good to go using the Dillon sizing die. The FCD also increases the loading effort (especially with non-jacketed bullets or when loading .45 auto), so case lube is pretty much a must if you use both.

Personally I could care less what the "U" die makes my brass look like. Eliminating any chance of bullet setback (IMHO) is much more important. That's why I use the "U" die on brass shot in my KKM barrelled G35.

A search will result in a method to grind down the Dillon sizing die to enable it to "un-glock" brass, but I've never tried it.

[DanM]

I can't say for sure since I've used a EGW "U" die since day 1, but I don't think "glocked" brass would work very well in a tight KKM chamber.

The U die certainly makes the press harder to cycle, but it's not an issue if you use case lube. Brass from the KKM barrel would be good to go using the Dillon sizing die. The FCD also increases the loading effort (especially with non-jacketed bullets or when loading .45 auto), so case lube is pretty much a must if you use both.

Personally I could care less what the "U" die makes my brass look like. Eliminating any chance of bullet setback (IMHO) is much more important. That's why I use the "U" die on brass shot in my KKM barrelled G35.

A search will result in a method to grind down the Dillon sizing die to enable it to "un-glock" brass, but I've never tried it.

I use a EGW U die and a Lee FCD in my 650. I give the cases a good dose of One-Shot and it seems to really help. I have brass that's been through a stock Glock barrel at least 10 times Now that I get free LEO range brass, I don't bother picking much up anymore.

[Carlos]

I use a EGW U die to resize all my .40sw, most of it is once fired Glock brass..... it runs equally well in match 1911 barrels and factory Glock barrels after that.

The EGW U Die is your friend. Use it. Love it.

.40 will hold up to several loadings, bulged or not, if properly sized and loaded. Personally, I usually leave my .40 brass on the ground, and just buy more cheap range brass (unless I have a huge pile from a practice session)...... but others seem to load it many times just fine.

Agreed. The Dillon instructional reloading video - the one with Brian as narator - shows that you should use OneShot on ALL BRASS - even if you are using carbide dies & it only takes a second to apply & never needs to come off (just shoot the reloads as they come off the press).

Also, I firmly believe that all the .40 S&W case-head separations you see posted on the net are due to set back. The U die prevents set back. I confess that I used some of the worst brass available (from an un named commercial range) and with the U die I never had a single case head let go with Major .40.

Also, I followed your link and look to be Bear Creek moly coated bullets. If they are anythng like Precision bullets, then they SHOULD be able to be safely used in your stock barrel (can anyone confirm?). You may want to really clean out all the copper before switching to moly. And the money you save will buy a lot of practice components.

[Jman]

This one drifted a bit.

[Unleashed]

I wouldn't say the thread drifted too much since PLINK has asked for a wide variety of advice.

I have been shooting Glocks for the past ten years and have seen many "myths" come and go. There are a few that I can confirm from my own experiences.

1. You don't need to add a great deal of weight to the Glock to make it shoot flatter, just hang on a little tighter! The grip angle in designed to help the shooter reduce recoil on their own.

2. Glock's unsupported bbl isn't that weak. I had the opportunity to fire a 205gr cast lead bullet through a Glock 35 (after about 3K) across a chrono. The one round in particular happened to be double charged! The brass was Winchester and the powder was Universal Clays. The bullet crossed the chrono at 1175fps! And the only thing I had to show for it was a confused looked and a swollen case! The case may have been pregnant but it was completely intact and so was the gun.

3. Contradictory to #2 I have had 4 case head separations(CHS) in a Glock with varying degrees of loads, though none of them were ever double charged again! All CHS's occurred with PMC brass. There might be a trend there, but I'm no expert.

4. I shot L10 with my G22 last year and used the Storm Lake bbl. The accuracy was excellent and the bbl dropped right in. The only thing I lost was about 30fps over the factory bbl. Accuracy between the two was negligible. If I was shooting all quality brass through the gun (even with major loads) I would just stick with the factory bbl and save yourself some money and velocity. By quality brass I mean starline, remington, or winchester. I don't have a lot of experience with the rest so I can't speak on them.

5. If you like the Glock sights you might want to look into the heinie as well as the CGR .090 front. It gives a very precise sight picture. I couldn't deal with the Dawsons because they were way too high and too damn sharp!

6. I reload using the EGW die. It doesn't work well for all cases when it comes to my 1911's but I have never had a problem with any loads in the Glock. I can't speak for some of the aftermarket bbls though.

Just my opinion.

[Jimdoe]

Thanks in advance for your reply, suggestions and advice.

First: I was wondering what everyone, who has a G35, has on their gun to run for Limited. From stock to decked out limited, just need an idea and advice on what I should do or change. I know a lot of you will say to run the gun as is for 1k rounds which I'm planning on doing, but I'm also open to any suggestions you all might have. Well the gun is stock right now, with ice heavy magwell and thats pretty much it.

Second: I am also looking for a load to meet major with it. I have 180gr Zero Trunc and TG powder which is what I was running with my EDGE. If you have any other/better alternatives feel free to reply.

If you have pics with your tricked out limited G35 will be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Jim

[Rye]

Hey Jim! I'm using solo1000 on mine. I have a G35 with caspian slide and kkm barrell. I use the factory grip. Vanek ultimate trigger. Use wolf guide rod and springs. Running about 12lbs. Works great. No hiccups...

[triplesinglestack]

I have a stock G 35 I run for limited, only mods made are:

swapped factory adjustable sights for factory fixed sights

dawson extended base pads gives re-loadable 19 rds easy

Storm Lake Barrel-because I cast my own bullets

C class Limited, I am trying to get at least to the top of C class w/current setup w/out investing any money, kind of a rewards system, if I can shoot a couple B class classifiers maybe add decent sights or a magwell etc.

[ede]

i have a G22 i use for limited, i think the standard size gun transitions quicker. I lightened the slide a bit.

heinie fixed rear dawson FO front

did my own trigger

heavy mag well, not allowed to say who made it

THE mag release

skate tape

glock barrel but if i were shooting lead i'd run aftermarket but not allowed to say how's barrel i'd run.

[Nik Habicht]

Grip tape

Warren/Sevigny sights

25 cent trigger job

Zero 180's and TG

Dawson mag pads.

lose the extended slide stop/release in favor of stock

That takes care of the gear.

Learn good technique. Make Grand Master.

Other than preferring Arredondo basepads to Dawson's, Flex's post from 2.75 years ago is still spot on --- nothing else is really necessary for a G22, 35, or 24 in Limited....