PLINK

Can someone please post up a new video or a working link? For some reason every video link in this thead with the 550 case feeder in action does not work. TIA

I use this also. I am getting 1143 fps (unofficial) with the factory G34 barrel and 1050 fps with the KKM barrel. The KKM results from my G34 was the official chrono reading from the 2009 Golden Bullet match. I just started experimenting with the 14lb Wolff recoil spring. Still undecided on that spring. I just tried a friend’s reload which is 147 CMJ with 3.2 of TG (chrono'ed from my factory G34 barrel at 899 fps, 132 PF) and I can not believe the difference. So much softer with the 147's and the front sight is really easy to track. I am still having a hard time bringing myself to purchase a case of 147 MG's though. Getting 750 bullets less for the same price is what is making the call difficult, especially because I have full case of 124's left.

I can't seem to find the option to change it back. How do I return it back to no outlines? Thank you. *Nevermind - I found the answer*

I am not sure if any of this can help you but I had a similar accuracy issue with MG 124 grain CMJ's and Win 231. I was using 4.2 grains of 231 with a 1.160 OAL in a Glock 34 with a KKM barrel. I fired 10 shots over the CED chrono. The PF was at 123 PF low and 130 high with a 126 PF average (1018 fps average). The gun felt great but the groups were not so good. To verify it was not me or the gun, I did try some Atlanta Arms 147 minor ammo a friend had and the Glock shot as it should. Had two different people try it with both types of ammo and the results were the same. I went back home and pulled the barrel from the slide. Placed the loaded round and the chamber and noticed that the round would not spin freely in the chamber by hand. In my case the round must have been hitting the rifling or something. So I changed the OAL to 1.150 and bumped the charge .3 grains. I have read on BE that Win 231 likes a little more pressure to be accurate so I bumped the charge plus I was barely making minor. Repeated the test above an all is good. *I still need to officially chrono this load.* Something I also noticed is the nose on the CMJ's are not all shaped the same. Some are a little pointier that others. So my actual OAL varies from 1.145 to 1.155 when measuring with calipers. I am using a Dillon 550B with all Dillon dies. Crimp set to approx. .377 to .378. Again I am not sure if any of this helps but maybe there is something in there for you to check or try. Please use load data at own risk. Keep us updated on your progress.

I am sure you guys know this but if you break a trigger spring during a match, just keep pinning the trigger back after each shot (using the reset). I have also read that while holding the Glock with a broken trigger spring, turn your hand over 180 degrees so that the slide is now horizontal to the ground, the grip side up, finger off trigger with the muzzle still facing down range and rack the slide. This will reset the trigger with out using the reset. I tried this during a dry fire session to confirm that it does work. Make sure your Glock is unloaded with no mag, remove your trigger spring, reassemble and try it both ways. You will also notice the trigger is much heavier. (Note: I have only tried both of these methods during dry fire).

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have few questions on carry sights. I am looking for some carry sights for a G19. I think I like the look of the Warren Tacticals (not Sevigny carry). I noticed that a few posters in this thread only have the front night sight and a plain rear. Is there a particular reason to get the lamp on the front only and not the rear? Can you still line up the front and rear sights in the dark with only the front lamp? I was considering the two lamp system until I started my research. TIA.

I also use trugrip for both Limited and Production guns. I use the glue that Eric sells to seal the two pieces together. http://www.ericwesselman.com/store/GripGlue.html I have not had any pealing problems after using this stuff. To get the dead skin off of the grips I use the "air in a can" to remove it. Don't use water, I found it to remove some of the grit. FWIW I had a stipple job done before but I liked feel of the grip tape better.

FWIW I use clays for minor out of my G35 with a Lone Wolf Barrel. 3.0 grains of Clays 180 grain TC Bear Creek moly bullets 1.120 OAL Win small pistol primers mixed brass Average Vel. 811 fps PF: 146 Standard Dev. 9 fps Springs: 15 lb ISMI recoil spring on stock guide rod Stock trigger spring Wolff reduced power striker and plunger spring

Buy the Bladetech with the DOH. You can remove it for IDPA if that time comes. I actually use the Bladetech without the DOH for USPSA and obviously IDPA but it is nice to have around.

I use a Glock 35 for SSP with: Dawson Adjustable rear, FO front Vanek Classic Trigger LWD barrel - use moly bullets Trugrip tape Standard slide lock Rear plug 15 lb ISMI spring on a stock guild rod Back up game gun is a G22 with all the above except I have the Heinie Rear, Dawson front FO sights Gear: Uncle Mikes instructor belt Comp-Tac mag pouches Bladetech holster

I agree with SA's post. I would rather have the Dawson FO front and Adjustable rear than a tungsten guild rod if weight is an issue. I use the same G35 for SSP and Production so I have to use a plastic guild rod anyway. I tried the Heinie/ Dawson combo, DS w/ FO front and Dawson FO front and Dawson Adjustable. The Dawson adjustable combo is my favorite so far.

I use .40 Bear Creek 180 grain tuncated cone bullets with the LWD barrels with no problems at all. The only thing I remember having to do is use a shorter OAL (1.120 IIRC). Edit to Add: I use these bullets for matches and practice.

Could you please tell me more about your Carver mount? I can't seem to find the Jpoint option on their web site. Are you using the CR speed holster with it? Thanks

I use them for .40 SW and .45 ACP. Can't beat the price. I use the 180 TC with 4.0 grains of TG and 1.120 OAL for a G35 with a LWD barrel. Using mixed brass. Dies are EGW U die, Dillon seat and Lee FCD with a pretty good crimp.

I use 1.120 OAL with 180 grain Bear Creek truncated cone bullets and a Glock LWD barrel.

I really like the way My G21 shoots, have you seen a lot of G21 used in IDPA matches? As far as I know, I think I am the only one using the G21 for SSP at my local club matches. A few others may be using the G21 for CDP.

The G21 is one of my favorite Glocks. I felt it was not getting enough attention so I started using it for IDPA SSP. It is also my only Glock that is still in the stock configuration.

Please post up a review on the SJC conversion mount. I am interested in how it performs. A Burris Fastfire review would be cool also.

So if I can't use a 9mm conversion barrel in a factory Glock 35 .40 slide, can I swap out the complete upper to the LWD G34 (9mm) slide/barrel for ESP? I would probably down load .40 before doing such a thing but I was wondering if it would be legal. I can't find anything in the rules about aftermarket slide replacement for ESP.

Yes, but I believe you have to call them. 209-874-4322 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ek+phone+number http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ek+phone+number I still get them from my local gun shop.

Link no worky. I believe the JP magwell fits in the box.

Does the striker move freely? Field strip the gun, pull the striker back so it is locked out by the firing pin plunger, hold slide with muzzle end towards the floor, then push the firing pin plunger. The striker should drop/ move freely. I have found that not all Wolff springs are the same even if they are rated at the same weight. Some are different colors and some seem to be wound tighter than others. I have found some that do not allow the striker to move freely. May be worth a look. Also, Charlie Vanek does custom work to the firing pin plunger to allow the stock striker to have more room for less chance of drag or light strikes. He also does some work to the spring cups as well. I use to get ocassional light strikes with the OEM striker, 4lb striker spring and 3.5 stock connector. Never had one since installing Charlie's trigger kits (the classic or his newest one). FWIW I currently do not use a lighten striker or Charlie's striker. Let us know what you find.

So if reports turn out that the slides are reliable and equal to OEM maybe a better setup would be a LWD slide and a KKM barrel. I want a fully supported chamber, but I don’t want to be fiddlefarting around with shorter cartridge OAL and making them fit the chamber. I load to a length of 1.135-40 right now. You can load some dummy rounds up and send them to LWD. Have them test the rounds in the barrel to make sure they fit, if not, they can throat the barrel for you. LWD is cool like that. Dan from LWD recommended that I do this for my 9mm major project. I told Dan how long I wanted to load my reloads (based on Coltgov's info) and it turns out he found some dummy loads in the shop that a previous customer sent him that was close to the bullet profile/ OAL I wanted to use. He tried the ammo in the barrel and ended up throating it a little then shipped it out. Had it in less than a week. So far everything is working fine. If I order another barrel 9mm barrel to use for major, I will make up some of my own dummy rounds and send them to LWD. As far as my OAL using the LWD .40 barrels, I had to shorting it a little. I use Bear Creek truncated cone moly bullets and they seem to sticking at 1.135. I shortened them to 1.120 and re-chrono'ed. All is good. +3 on having a tight chamber. I use one of the .40 barrels as a case guage. I met the guys/gals of LWD at the SHOT show. They are a great bunch of people to work with. I even got the chance to thank Dan in person. Coltgov, my clone of your open Glock is complete. Zeroing the Jpoint this weekend and first match will be on the following weekend. Thanks again for all of your help. I appreciate it.

I can't comment on LWD slides because the one I want (G17) has been on back order for a while now. I can comment on LWD barrels. I have 3 barrels total. 2 are for G35's and are chambered in .40 S&W and the other is for a G17 which I am using for 9mm major. The .40 barrels have about 4-5000 rounds through them and the 9mm has about 150 rounds through it (9mm barrel was throated by LWD to allow long reloads). So far I have no complaints and the fired brass looks great.

I had this same problem. This is what I did. -put the brass plug in the hole -start the screw that goes in the back strap, do not tighten yet -push the plug in as far as I could. I even got it a little past the bottom of the hole. The screw now appeared to be at a little angle. -firmly tighten screw -now put on magwell The screw that goes through the back strap is touching the top of the magwell. This is how I got mine to stay tight. YMMV I did not use any epoxy and after 5 matches it is still tight. Since you bought this new I will assume that you have the new and improved magwell insert. It should have a slight groove in the magwell opening area. Good luck.