TheGoatMumbler Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 I installed a Wolff spring kit in my 686-6 and it reduced the trigger pull from 10+lbs to 6 lbs. That's great. But now I have nothing but light primer strikes with Rem 130g, Win white box 130g & Federal 158g. I used the 14 lbs trigger return spring that was included in the kit which also has a 13 and 15 included. I've checked everything over, main spring adjustment screw tight, etc and plan to test again. I was gonna change the trigger return spring to the 15 lbs spring, but what does the trigger return spring have to do with the hammer striking the firing pin? What am I missing here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ysrracer Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 When I had my gun done, my gunsmith installed a longer firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 (edited) The Wolff spring has what they call a "Power Rib". That is the raised portion running lengthwise down the spring. It extends downward to where the strain screw contacts the spring. The original S&W spring doesn't have that feature. When you put in a Wolff spring, you effectively have a shorter strain screw due to the extra space created at the end of the screw by the Power Rib. Then the strain screw can't tension the new spring enough to make the hammer hit the firing pin hard enough. The easy fix is to get a #8-32 x 1/2" long set screw (these have no head) and install it with some Blue #242 Loctite. Then you can just keep putting more tension on the spring until you don't have any more misfires. The Loctite keeps the screw in place wherever you turn it to, but still allows for easy adjustment. Once you get the mainspring working, start with the lightest rebound spring. If that doesn't return the trigger as snappy as you want, put in the next heavier one, etc. If you work up the mainspring from having misfires to working right, and work up the rebound springs from lightest to heaviest, you will have the best (lightest) action you're going to get out of that setup. I drill an access hole in the grip on my guns so I can easily make adjustments without removing the grips. If you prefer having a strain screw with a head, and tighten it down all the way, you can find the right tension with the set screw, weigh and record the hammer pull with a trigger pull gage, then use a too long strain screw and shorten it a little at a time until you get the same hammer pull as before. If the firing pin is shorter than .495", you probably need a longer one. I like the Power Custom ones the best. Edited January 27, 2020 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGoatMumbler Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 Thanks. I noticed that difference in main springs and the indention and there was little tension on the new Wolff spring. A longer screw make sense. I'll measure the firing pin as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 I'm not a fan of the Wolff power rib mainsprings. I just took them out of two customer guns this week and put a tuned factory mainspring them.Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRBerg Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 all guns are different I run a 13# rebound spring and a reduced power rib spring in my 686 with no problems but a extended firing pin or longer screw should fix your light strikes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 If you are getting all light strikes, you will probably need a longer strain screw as others have counseled. On the other hand, if you're only getting some light strikes, the easiest solution may be to bend the Power Rib mainspring slightly straighter. Revolversmiths routinely bend the mainspring during the fine tuning process. The rebound springs will have no impact on the primer strikes, but are included because a gun with lighter mainspring tension will allow the rebound spring tension to be lightened, which will reduce the DA pull somewhat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGoatMumbler Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 My stock firing pin is .493 so an extended one is on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 The other option, I used, was to add a square of 0.010" shim stock between the spring and the screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Take a trigger gauge, place the hook so when the trigger is pulled it holds the hammer from falling, then measure the ounces it takes to hold the hammer steady at halfway through it's fall. I've found it takes 60 ounces to light off most factory ammo. If you use well seated Federal Primers anything 42 ounces and up have been reliable. If you need to change the pressure you can either bend the main spring or adjust the strain screw. I like to set it close by bending the main spring, then using different length strain screws I fine tune it. Then pick the rebound spring that gives you the feel you like for the trigger return. With Federals, 42 ounce hammer fall and a 5.5# action I usually end up using the 13# rebound spring. With other primers, 60 ounce, 7.5# action takes a 14 or 15 rebound. To get the rebound rate right you need to polish some parts of the action. The rebound slide, DA sear, cylinder bolt face and the trigger where all meet. Lightly polish, doesn't need to be mirror smooth. JM makes a good video on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 If you shoot PPC, the trigger pull on SA is 2.5# and a 14# rebound spring is what you will need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 12 hours ago, RePete said: If you shoot PPC, the trigger pull on SA is 2.5# and a 14# rebound spring is what you will need. Single Action on a S&W DA Revolver, they have those still? Jeez next you'll say they still wear spurs on the hammer! Seriously I know PPC had 50 yard shots, about like a Bianchi Cup match and I never use the SA on either COF's. But the S&W SA pulls are usually very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Single Action on a S&W DA Revolver, they have those still? Jeez next you'll say they still wear spurs on the hammer! [emoji1787] Seriously I know PPC had 50 yard shots, about like a Bianchi Cup match and I never use the SA on either COF's. But the S&W SA pulls are usually very nice.Cocking the hammer? Are you a cowboy?Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 9 minutes ago, PatJones said: Cocking the hammer? Are you a cowboy? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Well pardner I still have my spurs on Both my 627's! I just never use 'em they just slow down the getty up! I'm just too lazy to lop'em off when they don't get in my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Well pardner I still have my spurs on Both my 627's! I just never use 'em they just slow down the getty up! I'm just too lazy to lop'em off when they don't get in my way.You look good in the hat though....Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 @pskys2 and @PatJones You guys cracked me up! Thanks for the laugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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