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Super 1050 has a hitch?


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Ok just bought a used Super 1050 haven't run anything through it yet and can't until the basement is done (probably take me 2 more months AHHHH!).

But in cycling I see the following issues:

1) The head doesn't return all the way up, needs a nudge.   Sure the Toolhead Spring is weak and have a Level 10 Spring Kit on the way.

2) On the down stroke as the front Alignment Pin enters the Guide there is a noticable hitch.  Looks like the Pin is rubbing on one side/front? of the Guide.  It still works but the Shell Plate seems to have a bit of play?  Have no idea how many rounds through it.  Is this normal?  Just need cleaned, lubed, tightened and adjusted or is it a symptom of a deeper issue?

 

I'm a long time 550 user and pretty handy but looking for info so when I can get up and running I won't have to spend weeks extra. 

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The alignment issue is control by the bolt that sticks out the back of the press. Its near the bottom and controls how far the bearing rotates. It serves no other function. You should see it with no problem. About 1/4 of the way up from the base of of the press and sticking out obviously.

 

This bolt should be carefully adjusted to perfectly index the shell plate so that NO movement of the plate occurs when the guide pin comes down.. It's easy.

 

Alignment should be perfect. No realignment by the pin..

 

As far as the spring that assists in raising the toolhead, it isn't even necessary. You should be moving the handle full cycle from top to bottom to top. Not depending on the spring to return the handle.. Some people take the spring out and some automation requires it. If you like it fine but don't depend on it to run your press full cycle.

Edited by Brooke
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5 hours ago, Brooke said:

The alignment issue is control by the bolt that sticks out the back of the press. Its near the bottom and controls how far the bearing rotates. It serves no other function. You should see it with no problem. About 1/4 of the way up from the base of of the press and sticking out obviously.

 

This bolt should be carefully adjusted to perfectly index the shell plate so that NO movement of the plate occurs when the guide pin comes down.. It's easy.

 

Alignment should be perfect. No realignment by the pin..

 

As far as the spring that assists in raising the toolhead, it isn't even necessary. You should be moving the handle full cycle from top to bottom to top. Not depending on the spring to return the handle.. Some people take the spring out and some automation requires it. If you like it fine but don't depend on it to run your press full cycle.

Thanks, that will probably be it.  

 

Thanks to all who've responded.

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20 hours ago, Dwbsig said:

I would only losen and tighten the tool head bolt with the tool head all the down you can bend the pins or stress all your linkage parts if the bolt is very tight.

I'm pretty sure the manual says to fully raise the ram to lock in the tool head, will have to recheck.  But tightening it seems to be best with it raised to align everything, as long as one doesn't over torque the thing.

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Well i was wrong, I got a used 1050 about a year ago and the bolt was super tight and when I was trying to remove the bolt the head when down just enough to in gage the pins because the spring was bad and I bent one of the pins. So be careful.

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Yep Sprig that's exactly what it was doing and I'm sure that was why.  

Dwbsig mine was torqed down real tight too but pins looked good (had a spare Tool Head with it if need to I can use it) and with the ram all the way up everything loosened up and then lined up.  

Now I just need to get the basement finished so I can get back to it and hope I don't foul things up when I tear it all the way down to clean & lube it!

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On 12/30/2019 at 5:01 AM, Brooke said:

The alignment issue is control by the bolt that sticks out the back of the press. Its near the bottom and controls how far the bearing rotates. It serves no other function. You should see it with no problem. About 1/4 of the way up from the base of of the press and sticking out obviously.

 

This bolt should be carefully adjusted to perfectly index the shell plate so that NO movement of the plate occurs when the guide pin comes down.. It's easy.

 

What bolt is this?  Are you talking about the set screw right below the shell plate?

 

Do you have a Dillon part number?  ...or a picture?

 

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Good question and I gave you some bad info.. I typically run an RL1050. It has a bolt in the U shaped piece in lower back of the press that controls how far the index travel is.. Its insanely easy to adjust it exactly and have no jitter in the shell plate.

 

I recently added a Super 1050 and never looked for the adjustment because it came perfectly adjusted from Dillon. After answering you I went and looked and no such bolt exists.. I have looked all over for the adjustment mechanism and so far have not found it.. It is adjustable. It has to be.. I'll keep looking because I need to know. Meanwhile why don't you call Dillon and ask how to adjust index travel. It should be perfect to avoid resulting issues.

 

I will also call and we can compare notes. My experience is you don't always get great answers from the guys who answer the phone.. Sometimes you get the right person so both of us should try.

 

The bolt on the RL allows you to precisely adjust the index travel. The Super has to have a similar adjustment.

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8 hours ago, Brooke said:

Good question and I gave you some bad info.. I typically run an RL1050. It has a bolt in the U shaped piece in lower back of the press that controls how far the index travel is.. Its insanely easy to adjust it exactly and have no jitter in the shell plate.

 

I recently added a Super 1050 and never looked for the adjustment because it came perfectly adjusted from Dillon. After answering you I went and looked and no such bolt exists.. I have looked all over for the adjustment mechanism and so far have not found it.. It is adjustable. It has to be.. I'll keep looking because I need to know. Meanwhile why don't you call Dillon and ask how to adjust index travel. It should be perfect to avoid resulting issues.

 

I will also call and we can compare notes. My experience is you don't always get great answers from the guys who answer the phone.. Sometimes you get the right person so both of us should try.

 

The bolt on the RL allows you to precisely adjust the index travel. The Super has to have a similar adjustment.

I ended up just operating the handle so the alignment pins were engaged then loosened the bolt holding the Tool Head on, wiggling it to settle everything in and then tightened back down without over torquing.  Hitch went away so it was just a set up thing.  It may be once I start actually using it I may have to go deeper but not now.

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11 hours ago, Brooke said:

Good question and I gave you some bad info.. I typically run an RL1050. It has a bolt in the U shaped piece in lower back of the press that controls how far the index travel is.. Its insanely easy to adjust it exactly and have no jitter in the shell plate.

 

I recently added a Super 1050 and never looked for the adjustment because it came perfectly adjusted from Dillon. After answering you I went and looked and no such bolt exists.. I have looked all over for the adjustment mechanism and so far have not found it.. It is adjustable. It has to be.. I'll keep looking because I need to know. Meanwhile why don't you call Dillon and ask how to adjust index travel. It should be perfect to avoid resulting issues.

 

I will also call and we can compare notes. My experience is you don't always get great answers from the guys who answer the phone.. Sometimes you get the right person so both of us should try.

 

The bolt on the RL allows you to precisely adjust the index travel. The Super has to have a similar adjustment.

 

No need to call Dillon...  It's the set screw under the shell plate on a 1050.

 

 

3 hours ago, pskys2 said:

I ended up just operating the handle so the alignment pins were engaged then loosened the bolt holding the Tool Head on, wiggling it to settle everything in and then tightened back down without over torquing.  Hitch went away so it was just a set up thing.  It may be once I start actually using it I may have to go deeper but not now.

 

This is exactly how I have done it for years.

 

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