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How to find the most reliable safe for your home


AnnaSmit

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I see a large variety of safes on sale. Many people write that these are simple boxes and poorly protect its contents. I want to buy a truly reliable safe for the house to keep valuables and a gun.

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talk to who your getting the safe from and they will try to sell you on how the front door is made and

fire rating . Think about where you will place the safe . Mine is in a small room against 2 walls and bolted to the floor . Bottom line any safe can be compromised given time . don't think most home burglars carry proper tools either .

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You probably can’t afford the “most reliable safe” or don’t want to at least.

Size needed? Do you have an alarm system? Police response time? Does it need fire insulation or will it be somewhere that doesn’t matter?

A good value in the middle of the market is sturdysafe.com. Mostly security (meaning thick steel) and not much bling :-)


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3 hours ago, JimP42 said:

Size needed? Do you have an alarm system? Police response time? Does it need fire insulation or will it be somewhere that doesn’t matter?

 

Can it be bolted to a wood floor (better than nothing) or anchor bolted to a concrete basement floor (better yet).

 

I'm big on cyber safety. Post your real name only if essential (you need it here only if you sell items in the classifieds), do not post your real birthday, post only vaguely your location and only if there is a reason you need to. If I was a thief I think I could use twitter/facebook/and websites like this one to find prime targets. 

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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3 hours ago, JimP42 said:

A good value in the middle of the market is sturdysafe.com


 

 

When I researched safes, this was a company that was recommended to me.  I would agree that this is a good safe for the money.  They also do a nice job with their videos on various concrete anchor bolts.

 

 

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Bolting it down is required for any kind of security. It isn’t that hard to just steal a 1000 lb safe and cut it open later. I have moved my ~ 2’x2’x6’ safes several times and they are around 600 each empty. A couple of big guys with some wood broom handles, rope, and a come-along could do it.

If you rent and can’t bolt them down then a good alarm and quick police response time can run them off.

I keep the metal cutting saw blades for my circ saw and sawzall in one of the safes. Your own tools can be used against you.


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5 hours ago, JimP42 said:


I keep the metal cutting saw blades for my circ saw and sawzall in one of the safes. Your own tools can be used against you.
 

 

That's something I had not thought about.

 

Back when I bought my safe (around 1995) I was about to buy one with an electronic keypad and lock.  A fellow employee told me he had been locked out of his safe for several month when either the lock or the battery failed.   Locksmith advised cutting a hole in the safe to get to the contents.

 

Hopefully the electronic locks have improved and some safeguards are in place but it is something to at least read up on.

 

I went non-electronic.  It has a mechanical lock that should be serviced every 5 years or so.  Instead I just change out the lock and dial myself. Not that hard to do and cheaper than the locksmith service call.

 

 

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Check with a local lock and safe company.  Sometimes they will take used safes on trade from jewelry stores and pawn shops. 

 

My safe came out of a pawn shop and is UL rated Class T-30 burglary.  Cost 1/4 the price of new.  Also allowed me to create my own interior with racks, shelves and lighting.

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Check with a local lock and safe company.  Sometimes they will take used safes on trade from jewelry stores and pawn shops. 
 
My safe came out of a pawn shop and is UL rated Class T-30 burglary.  Cost 1/4 the price of new.  Also allowed me to create my own interior with racks, shelves and lighting.

Yep. That’s a real safe. A UL rating of TL-15 or better.


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