JimP42

Definitely mechanical for the lock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. That’s a real safe. A UL rating of TL-15 or better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bolting it down is required for any kind of security. It isn’t that hard to just steal a 1000 lb safe and cut it open later. I have moved my ~ 2’x2’x6’ safes several times and they are around 600 each empty. A couple of big guys with some wood broom handles, rope, and a come-along could do it. If you rent and can’t bolt them down then a good alarm and quick police response time can run them off. I keep the metal cutting saw blades for my circ saw and sawzall in one of the safes. Your own tools can be used against you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You probably can’t afford the “most reliable safe” or don’t want to at least. Size needed? Do you have an alarm system? Police response time? Does it need fire insulation or will it be somewhere that doesn’t matter? A good value in the middle of the market is sturdysafe.com. Mostly security (meaning thick steel) and not much bling :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's probably the same LED focused on a larger/smaller area, so technically they are probably the same total brightness. Which would make the 3MOA more intense.

One change becoming an RO is that you aren't watching the shooting/results, you are watching the shooter/gun, and the muzzle and trigger finger in particular. Not the ROs job to judge hits or anything else downrange - it's to make sure nothing gets out of control uprange.

Lube pistol brass?

Why? 550 is more capable, much easier to change calibers, easier to use, easier to sell. Definitely worth a few extra bucks.

I have a stainless Loaded 9mm that I had to finish ream just slightly but that was at least 5 yrs ago. Also switched from Dillon to Lee FCD and no more problems. That was a backup - my main Loaded never had an issue.

I have a stainless Loaded 9mm that I had to finish ream just slightly but that was at least 5 yrs ago. Also switched from Dillon to Lee FCD and no more problems. That was a backup - my main Loaded never had an issue.

Nicely done!

It's a slippery slope, but really there is no point for all your calibers. Just plan on your primary calibers that you need to load a lot of. For me 9mm (147gr DVC load) and probably 223 prep. For you maybe none, if don't shoot any one caliber a lot, or different one(s). I will continue to use my 550 for 45, 300blk, 30-06, other 9mm loads, and 223 loading. 9 is the only thing I want to load an ammo can of 1200 at a time. Which I should do tonight now that I think about it.

550 for lower volume, and cheaper, and easier changes. If you expect to load lots of calibers, go 550. 650 doesn't make sense to me without case feeder. If you expect to load a LOT (more than 1k/month) of one or two calibers, go 650.

I have a 550 with heads for 6 calibers as well as dedicated prep heads for 556 and 300BO. I am tempted to get a 650 or 1050 for bulk 9 and 223 but I think I will always keep the 550. You don't really need a powder check for straight wall pistol rounds if you can pay attention and look for powder before putting on each bullet. Much more critical for bottleneck cases.

^^THIS^^I would ditch a powder sensor before I used a combo die. A $10 light clipped to the press will do everything a powder check will For pistol definitely. For .223, not so much.

I have to keep loading ammo to feed it.

Worked great for me. Ended several years of frustration with the primer feed.

They work as well as anything else as far as I can tell and are a lot cheaper. I switched to an SJC Titan for a while, and now use the AAC brakeout and I would put the Miculek an an AR in a heartbeat. They are all loud if they work - they work by venting gas out the top and sides to push the muzzle forward and down. Gas has to up mostly back and some up to accomplish that. Doesn't bother me shooting but use plugs and muffs if you are timing a match. Shooting with your head and the muzzle in a barrel, or from inside a car is no fun though :-(

I use a 550. For pistol, Dillon plus Lee factory crimp. Good crimp and a second sizing. Rounds always fit, even in a tight chambered 9mm that I have. For 223 and 300BLK, Lee universal decapper and Dillon size/trim with RT1500 in the prep head (and swager in place of priming ram). In the loading head, RCBS small base AR sizer, powder check since I can't see into 223 cases, and RCBS seat/crimp (in the AR SET with the sizer). For 30-06, manual prep and Dillon dies.

Take it easy. Shoot more first. You don't know what you like or need yet. More ammo. More matches.

6000/$469 at Wideners is what I have been doing for the 55gr Hornady.

Recoil spring is stock from STI. STI's FAQ says 5" 9mm springs are 10lb so unless they have changed that for the DVC, I guess it is 10.

I have loaded many 10Ks of 9mm for my 1911s but before I try to find what works best in my new DVC limited 9, I thought I would ask whether anyone has any guidance on what generally works best as a starting point. Basically my question is whether there is anything special about the STI 2011s (this is a 5" titanium nitrided barrel) that I should be aware of. Also, how many rounds should I put through it before I trust my experiments on what works? (I figure it will loosen up or smooth out just a bit as I start shooting it) Some questions running through my mind: What range of power factors will cycle with the standard spring? What overall length feeds best? And what range should I stay within? Does it get pickier with lower power factor? What bullet shape feeds best? Probably round nose/ball but I thought I'd ask just in case. Does lead vs. plated vs coated vs FMJ matter to the cycling or to the barrel? Do some bullet weights work better than others in the 115-147 gr range? The answer may just be - it's just a 9 like every other one, so shoot whatever you like and find that works, but I have heard at least that they are sensitive to OAL so in the interest of saving time and components finding my load, please share what you know about loading for these. Thanks! Jim

Pick it up after a match or anywhere I can really. Remove obvious trash and check with magnet. Tumble it. Sort it with the shell sorter plates including 380. Load it on 550. Most crimped pockets load fine, or have a slight catch as they start but load OK. If they don't, it is obvious when I try and I just toss it and keep going. About 1 per 100 primers gets partially started due to a crimp and won't seat correctly. Occasionally something else odd finds its way in and gets tossed. At the end I put them all primer end up in 100 round cases and check for high primers (1 per 1000 maybe) and overall length (1 per 2000 is too long maybe). I used the Lee factory crimp instead of the Dillon crimp at the end, and it resizes the case again all the way down, so everything chambers in my tight chambered Springfield 1911 9mm just fine. I very very rarely gauge 9mm except when setting up the dies for a new load.

I emailed STI and they said 2 140 and 1 126 on the others I am considering.