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Mounting scope


SlvrDragon50

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Having never owned a scope before, any suggestions on a good guide for mounting my scope? I've found a video that uses a plumb line on the wall and a flashlight through the scope that seems like it would work quite well. The cheaper levels seem to be quite shoddy.

Edited by SlvrDragon50
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So I finally got my scope mounted, I leveled the rifle and scope using a bubble level app on my phone and I double checked with a plumb line.

 

That said, the reticle is stille slightly canted when I mount it. I'm assuming this is just natural cant? Or should my natural cant not be that noticeable. 

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7 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

So I finally got my scope mounted, I leveled the rifle and scope using a bubble level app on my phone and I double checked with a plumb line.

 

That said, the reticle is stille slightly canted when I mount it. I'm assuming this is just natural cant? Or should my natural cant not be that noticeable. 

I’ve got the fancy bubble levelers and it just doesn’t work for me. Too many variables between this part on the scope being assumed to be level vs that part on the rifle assumed to be level.  The best technique I’ve developed is to get a yard long bubble level and put it on a fence a bit out. It doesn’t have to be a mile, 25 yards or so, but get that level perfectly level.  Go back to the bench and set up your rifle so that it is as level as you can get it.  Now Look through the scope, and “rotate” it in the rings until you can perfectly superimpose your crosshair on the yard level in the distance.  Now tighten it all down, confirm everything is stiill level, and shoot the bubble level.  Okay maybe not the last part.  ?

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Ah interesting, didn't think of that. I do have a yard long bubble leveler so I'll take it out when I go to zero the scope and confirm!

 

Very excited to shoot with the optic, way easier for me to use than the Holosun dot. Still gonna keep the Holosun for if I ever do PCC. Only thing I wish I had was a raised 1.93" mount! This LaRue LT204 is great otherwise.

 

JQCzi05.png

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If you cant the gun naturally, I would mount it where the scope is plumb while you have the gun in your natural cant. 
Why? You're introducing a shift in windage on top of elevation for any holdovers or dialing you end up doing. Level is level.

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Wouldn't (shouldn't??) a level scope help you correct any cant issue you have from the way you hold the rifle?

 

I seem to naturally notice/level the cross hairs when looking through a scope.

 

And, AR15.  Nice flat mag well bottom.  Can you sit it on the edge of a level table, look through the scope and see if the cross hairs are level?  If not, loosen the ring screws and twist the scope till the cross hairs are level.

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3 hours ago, RAINY0DAYS said:

 

Why? You're introducing a shift in windage on top of elevation for any holdovers or dialing you end up doing. Level is level.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

If you level the gun to the scope and you  cant your rifle (lets exaggerate) at 45 degrees, then your scope is canted 45 degrees to plumb. If you want to move your POI 1" right, you have to dial both your elevation and windage. I'm not saying it's the best and only way to do it, just another option. I personally would rather have a level scope to the rifle and work on shooting the rifle completely level. Some people need adjustable buttpads where the cant can be adjusted in order to accomplish this.

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I've been handling the scope more, and I don't notice as much cant now so I think I'm just learning how to properly mount the rifle on my shoulder whereas I got away with poor technique on the dot. Gonna go to the range today and shoot from rest so I'll find out how it does.

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If you level the gun to the scope and you  cant your rifle (lets exaggerate) at 45 degrees, then your scope is canted 45 degrees to plumb. If you want to move your POI 1" right, you have to dial both your elevation and windage. I'm not saying it's the best and only way to do it, just another option. I personally would rather have a level scope to the rifle and work on shooting the rifle completely level. Some people need adjustable buttpads where the cant can be adjusted in order to accomplish this.
You realize that if the scope isn't level to the rifle, you're doing this no matter what? Canting the rifle is bad period, no matter what you're leveling the scope to. Both need to be level for any adjustments to be correct.

It's easier to level the rifle with technique so your reticle is level with the horizon, or even by use of a level on your gun, than it is to try to figure out diagonal adjustments because you didn't level the scope to the rifle.

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1 minute ago, RAINY0DAYS said:

You realize that if the scope isn't level to the rifle, you're doing this no matter what? Canting the rifle is bad period, no matter what you're leveling the scope to. Both need to be level for any adjustments to be correct.

It's easier to level the rifle with technique so your reticle is level with the horizon, or even by use of a level on your gun, than it is to try to figure out diagonal adjustments because you didn't level the scope to the rifle.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

I agree it's not great to cant a rifle, but if you zero your rifle at 100 yards and shooter cants rifle but scope is level to horizon... a 1 moa move in windage on the scope will change the POI 1 MOA as long as the shooter maintains the same cant which in turn means scope is plumb/level to horizon.

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5 minutes ago, FunkyTownAggie said:

I agree it's not great to cant a rifle, but if you zero your rifle at 100 yards and shooter cants rifle but scope is level to horizon... a 1 moa move in windage on the scope will change the POI 1 MOA as long as the shooter maintains the same cant which in turn means scope is plumb/level to horizon.

 

Here's an article on it. If you don't want to read all of it skip down to the conclusions.

 

https://www.snipershide.com/training-lesson-mechanics-rifle-cant/

 

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I agree it's not great to cant a rifle, but if you zero your rifle at 100 yards and shooter cants rifle but scope is level to horizon... a 1 moa move in windage on the scope will change the POI 1 MOA as long as the shooter maintains the same cant which in turn means scope is plumb/level to horizon.
That's the thing, it now only works at 100 now. Without touching anything on the scope, if you shoot the gun at any other distance besides 100 in your scenario, you're introducing a shift in both the x and y axis. What's easier, trying to figure that out at every distance or just leveling the rifle to eliminate the issue altogether?

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Here's an article on it. If you don't want to read all of it skip down to the conclusions.
 
https://www.snipershide.com/training-lesson-mechanics-rifle-cant/
 
While that's a valid opinion and one I've heard before, I don't agree with it and neither do most PRS shooters I know. The opinion is entirely based on two concepts, one being that you're going to somehow be able to repeat that natural cant in different shooting positions just by feel more accurately than using a visual reference, and two that you for some reason won't be able to hold a rifle level even if you do have a visual reference. He's also comparing an ideal scenario where he can repeat the same intentional cant with a nonideal scenario where he messes up with a scope level to the rifle, which seems a bit disingenuous. If you are unable to repeat that natural cant, you're in the same boat as if you canted a rifle with a level scope.

The real question is does any of this really matter for the distances you shoot in 3gun. Honestly, it probably doesn't.

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