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9mm Extractor tuning ??


Broncman

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On the 2011 9mm, where should the extractor contact the shell case?

 

Should the sharp edge of the hook touch the inside of the case groove, or should the flatter pad touch the outside edge of the rim with a small clearance between the groove and hook face. 

 

I know that the bevel portion of the hook should not touch the bevel of the case groove.

 

I have my 9 Major running 99%.

Literally a stove pipe about every 100 Rds. Tension seems to be right, but the hook face is against the groove.  Some cases with a different shape groove appear to be less stable if that makes sense.

 

Brazos shows this in their  pic on tuning the extractor, but Jerry Keefer's posts on another forum, suggests the case be held by the pad holding the rim edge.

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You are going to get opinions saying both ways are correct. I tune mine so the hook touches the groove as that will allow for maximum hook contact on the rim. Been doing this for a little while, like 25 years. ?

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What extractor do you use?  Is the hook face ( skinny edge of hook face) wide or rounded.

I am thinking a wider face would hold the case a little longer as the round in the mag starts pushing the empty case up before it hits the ejector.

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39 minutes ago, Don_B said:

You are going to get opinions saying both ways are correct. I tune mine so the hook touches the groove as that will allow for maximum hook contact on the rim. Been doing this for a little while, like 25 years. ?

Don, 25 ? really ? Me thinks your calculator broke. :)

I agree and would add that I try to get both to touch.

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B, it is possible the extractor is not the problem.  I have a well tuned Aftec and I get stovepipes sometimes.  There are two things I can do to cause stovepipe jams.  One is I tend to ride the thumb safety and sometimes my thumb touches the slide.  Instant stovepipe.  Other times my grip is weakened, as in shooting around an obstacle.  The 'limp wrist' slows down the slide and I get a stovepipe.

 

My Open gun wears a frame mounted Slideride.  So the ejector is configured to throw the brass out and down to clear the sight mount.  Even with a lowered ejection port there is not much margin for error.  Anything that slows the slide down causes a stovepipe.

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ZZT, I do try to keep it well oiled. Could be grip from bad draw.

 

I run a standard mount CMore. Ran an offset mount for awhile. 200 thousandths and hated it. Might mill the spacer down to 100 thou offset if I still have issues. Finally got all my gen 2 STI mags running. The stove pipe always seems to hit during a qualifier stage! Might look into my grip a little more. 

 

Thumb riding slide at safety might be an issue. Next time it happens I will try to freeze and assess the situation.

Edited by Broncman
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13 hours ago, Powder Finger said:

Don, 25 ? really ? Me thinks your calculator broke. :)

I agree and would add that I try to get both to touch.

Well let's see, I started shooting USPSA matches in the late 80's and probably shot several years before I started setting the extractors up like that. No it wasn't Major 9 back then but did the same with 38 supers. So maybe 24 years then.?

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1 hour ago, Don_B said:

Well let's see, I started shooting USPSA matches in the late 80's and probably shot several years before I started setting the extractors up like that. No it wasn't Major 9 back then but did the same with 38 supers. So maybe 24 years then.?

i am started in 1984 with 9 minor and tuned extractors same way like u.  mine Colt Gov. single stack  9mm  was 100% reliable.

and i use it as carry gun  and for ipsc  practice.

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10 hours ago, Don_B said:

Well let's see, I started shooting USPSA matches in the late 80's and probably shot several years before I started setting the extractors up like that. No it wasn't Major 9 back then but did the same with 38 supers. So maybe 24 years then.?

I just ran it through a real calculator and you are pretty close, but it seems like longer to me!

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31 minutes ago, Powder Finger said:

I just ran it through a real calculator and you are pretty close, but it seems like longer to me!

Haha! Time flys when you're having fun. 

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On 4/10/2018 at 9:25 AM, Broncman said:

ZZT, I do try to keep it well oiled. Could be grip from bad draw.

 

I run a standard mount CMore. Ran an offset mount for awhile. 200 thousandths and hated it. Might mill the spacer down to 100 thou offset if I still have issues. Finally got all my gen 2 STI mags running. The stove pipe always seems to hit during a qualifier stage! Might look into my grip a little more. 

 

Thumb riding slide at safety might be an issue. Next time it happens I will try to freeze and assess the situation.

Have you checked the bottom of you're optic mount to see if brass is hitting it?

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It is... Not near as much as before I worked on the extractor. No brass marks on the hood from low strikes, so I worked on the ejector a little. 

 

Waiting for some range time now. Trying to take it slow in the mods. Problem is, when it only does it once or twice in 150-200 Rds... It is hard to troubleshoot.

 

Going back to the offset mount may be  100% cure, but that is a last resort.

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B, move the 'point' on the ejector higher to spit the brass out lower.  Mine is tuned to actually throw the brass out and down.  This may require a new ejector.

Edited by zzt
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Don_B that's a great idea. 

 

My next suggestion was going to be what you mentioned you did to the ejector. I just had to tune mine up on my 38SC and now it throws everything straight sideways. 

 

When I shot 9 major I had the same problem with about the same frequency. I know how frustrating that can be. 

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On 4/12/2018 at 8:34 AM, Broncman said:

ZZT, that is exactly what I did to the ejector. 

 

One other thing.... All various range brass... Yeah I know not a great idea.

 

Going to sort brass to at least a few Major brands. It was Soo nice not doing that though.

 

One of the issues you have to watch with 9 major is slightly tight brass.  Once all your gun hardware is good, you now need good ammo.  Just slightly bulged brass will be tight in the chamber and retard slide action causing stove pipes.  You need a tight case gauge and *perfectly* plunking ammo for matches.  Either buy good known brass for matches or sort all your ammo after loading into a match pile or practice pile.  If the gun is all right, this is the problem. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/17/2018 at 9:32 AM, theWacoKid said:

 

One of the issues you have to watch with 9 major is slightly tight brass.  Once all your gun hardware is good, you now need good ammo.  Just slightly bulged brass will be tight in the chamber and retard slide action causing stove pipes.  You need a tight case gauge and *perfectly* plunking ammo for matches.  Either buy good known brass for matches or sort all your ammo after loading into a match pile or practice pile.  If the gun is all right, this is the problem. 

Do you use the tighter super match gage or the regular one?

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WacoKid I think more of that is getting that one piece of brass that is right on the verge of cracking. 

 

It can gauge fine but when you shoot it, it cracks just enough to stick a little and cause a problem. 

 

I agree though that if it's 9 major and it's even a hair away from a good gauge. Put it in the practice pile. 

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14 hours ago, Broncman said:

Do you use the tighter super match gage or the regular one?

 

I use a hundo that I've found to be on the tighter side.  It is more forgiving than the DAA 20 pocket gauge I have but not as forgiving as the single gauge I have.  If it plunks perfect in the hundo, it's good.  If it doesn't plunk perfect in the hundo, but plunks in the single gauge, it's good enough for practice.  If it won't plunk in the single then it becomes suspect.

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1 hour ago, Honkeymcgee said:

WacoKid I think more of that is getting that one piece of brass that is right on the verge of cracking. 

 

It can gauge fine but when you shoot it, it cracks just enough to stick a little and cause a problem. 

 

I agree though that if it's 9 major and it's even a hair away from a good gauge. Put it in the practice pile. 

 

Every split or popped piece of brass I've ever experienced has ejected fine.  In practice I will evaluate every malfunction and have done that for years now.  For me, it's never been a split or broken piece of brass.

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Shockbottle Hundo arrived yesterday. Well, I thought my ammo was all good!

It  rejected quite few with bad rims.

 

Looks like it is going to be worth the money I spent on it. Should have done it sooner.

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10 hours ago, Broncman said:

Shockbottle Hundo arrived yesterday. Well, I thought my ammo was all good!

It  rejected quite few with bad rims.

 

Looks like it is going to be worth the money I spent on it. Should have done it sooner.

The shockbottle is great. One thing I always do when something wouldn't gauge on those was pull that round, and drop it back in. 

Sometime a little spec of dirt would get on the case or in the gauge and keep one from going in. 

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