JP Trigger

[longbeard]

Just installed it.  Breaks like glass.  A tad heavier than I would like.  Has anyone polished theirs?  Just curious if some 1911 style stoning would be bad or good,

[Ken6PPC]

Wouldn't a spring change be more likely to reduce the trigger pull?  Does it have the JP yellow springs in it now?  If not, you may want to try changing to them first.  

 

If it already "Breaks like glass", I would think further polishing would be more likely to do harm than good.  

 

 

Edited August 6, 2017 by Ken6PPC
reworded for clarity

[Old3GNR]

With my GMR-13 I found a little lube and 1000 rounds of shooting dropped the pull weight to about 2-1/2#.

[longbeard]

It's a great trigger.  I just wondered if people polished them or not.  I didn't look at the mating surface real hard while installing.  I was too busy worrying about loctite!

 

Yes, yellow springs.  I suspect break-in will help too.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I would shoot a couple hundred rounds with it and then look to see where the wear marks are that you want to stone smooth. Go slow and use an ultra fine stone. Thanks, Eric

[TRUBL]

They come polished......if it breaks heard, that tends to tell me that you put the heavier spring in??? Are you using the stock hammer? or JP's speed hammer?

[Ken6PPC]

1 hour ago, longbeard said:

It's a great trigger.  I just wondered if people polished them or not.  I didn't look at the mating surface real hard while installing.  I was too busy worrying about loctite!

 

Yes, yellow springs.  I suspect break-in will help too.

 

What did you put Loctite on?  JUST the set screw, right?  

Edited August 7, 2017 by Ken6PPC

[L9X25]

On 7/21/2017 at 9:27 AM, L9X25 said:

 

These are the instructions from JP, they worked on mine and dropped it to ~2 lbs

[longbeard]

58 minutes ago, TRUBL said:

They come polished......if it breaks heard, that tends to tell me that you put the heavier spring in??? Are you using the stock hammer? or JP's speed hammer?

The whole armageddon roller trigger kit.  Yellow springs. I'm very satisfied.  I just wondered if people polished them up or if they needed it.  

[longbeard]

31 minutes ago, L9X25 said:

These are the instructions from JP, they worked on mine and dropped it to ~2 lbs

Thanks,

I suspected that a little love would make even better.  Also figured since they want $200+ to install it that they put some more time into it.  This is the answer I was looking for =)

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by longbeard

[littlefish]

JP is great trigger for PCC, even if it's a tad heavy. Makes for better more positive reset. Jerry M runs extra heavy trigger reset/return springs in his revolvers, he says it's needed for fast shooting (so the trigger keeps up with his finger).

Edited August 13, 2017 by littlefish

[longbeard]

Before I state this I want to clarify that I didn't polish or touch the trigger...  Clarifying due to the above questions I asked not too long ago in the above comments.

 

I love this trigger and a little grease as instructed and about 1K rounds have really brought it around.  Tonight I had a double.  Just one.  In the last 300 rounds I've had an issue maybe 5-6 times where after firing a round the trigger won't fire the next round.  One would think it didn't reset except that it will fire after flipping the safety on and back off.  So obviously it had to have reset.

 

My plan is to just reinstall the safety set screw, but I'm a little curious as to how that might be an issue.  As far as the double.  I'm not sure what caused.  It's the only one I have experienced.  Using the yellow springs.  Perhaps a bump fire?  The manual discusses this briefly.

 

Thoughts?!

 

 

[StealthyBlagga]

1 hour ago, longbeard said:

...Perhaps a bump fire?...

 

 

Probably this. Try extending your stock one notch so it sits a little more firmly in the shoulder. I would not mess with the trigger unless you confirm you have a real problem.

[longbeard]

Update:

I really love the feel of this trigger, but I have a recurring issue that is driving me nuts.  After a few thousand rounds I lose the sear timing.  It's happened three times now.  One day I pick it up and it just won't reset reliably.  I investigate and find the sear is slightly over-timed on the hammer spur.   The set screws are definitely loctited  very well and are not moving.  The pin holes have no noticeable play. I have sprayed some brake cleaner in there to remove any grit.  I am stumped.  Has anyone seen this?

 

I usually apply heat and reset the trigger and all is good.  This time I may just have to yank this out and put in another Hiperfire.

[L9X25]

It "could" be how you set up the timing to begin with.  I had a new recently factory installed trigger to use as a reference, so I just copied their clearance exactly.  

 

I set the disconnect so that it would have about .0000000001" clearance between the hammer hook and the disconnect with the trigger at rest.  Any amount of pull would cause an interference.  I would guess that either the disconnector hook or hammer hook has worn or peened slightly.  I would inspect them with magnification and replace the bad item.  I think they are both cheap to replace (if you had to pay) and JP would likely replace the part for free. 

[longbeard]

23 minutes ago, L9X25 said:

It "could" be how you set up the timing to begin with.  I had a new recently factory installed trigger to use as a reference, so I just copied their clearance exactly.  

 

I set the disconnect so that it would have about .0000000001" clearance between the hammer hook and the disconnect with the trigger at rest.  Any amount of pull would cause an interference.  I would guess that either the disconnector hook or hammer hook has worn or peened slightly.  I would inspect them with magnification and replace the bad item.  I think they are both cheap to replace (if you had to pay) and JP would likely replace the part for free. 

I know what you mean on the clearance.  I'm very sure I have been diligent on the clearance there, and have watched the video many times.  I'm confident whenever I install it that it is correct.

 

In this case the sear has moved forward every so slightly.   If you were installing the trigger you would want to turn the set screw a 1/16 or clockwise to move the sear back.  Seems like wear would lessen the amount of contact between the two not increase it? 

 

The clearance has definitely changed.  The only variable that I can come up with is the sear spring, but it would have had to extended to move the sear forward. I don't think springs grow when they wear?  

 

 

 

 

[L9X25]

The only thing that controls where the triggers sits before the hammer is cocked is the sear rubbing on the bottom of the hammer.  You might check the top of the flat area of the sear, and the diameter on the bottom of the hammer, to see if there is some wear on either of those locations.  I usually put some of the grease on that area, along with the hammer and disconnect hooks, every time I clean the trigger area.  I have not experienced  wear on either of the high round count triggers that have.  

[longbeard]

2 minutes ago, L9X25 said:

The only thing that controls where the triggers sits before the hammer is cocked is the sear rubbing on the bottom of the hammer.  You might check the top of the flat area of the sear, and the diameter on the bottom of the hammer, to see if there is some wear on either of those locations.  I usually put some of the grease on that area, along with the hammer and disconnect hooks, every time I clean the trigger area.  I have not experienced  wear on either of the high round count triggers that have.  

I'll tear it down again tonight.  This is driving me insane.

[L9X25]

Is the clearance between the disconnect and hammer hook increasing or decreasing?

Edited April 23, 2018 by L9X25

[longbeard]

Just now, L9X25 said:

Is the clearance between the disconnect and hammer hook increasing or decreasing?

I have been saying sear when I meant to say disconnector, and "screwing in" when I meant backing off the screw.  I'm a pro at such things sometimes  

 

The distance is decreasing.  The set screw needs backed off to move the disconnector back as it is over timed.  I posted the video at the point they discuss the timing.  Mine is always good when I reinstall.  Then several thousand rounds later the disconnector has moved forward just enough to make the disconnection point sluggish or even fail.

 

 

 

 

[L9X25]

If the clearance is getting tighter, that is not wear.  That is likely some "grunge" building up in front of the lower hammer hook and holding the trigger/sear partially back.  

 

Pull the hammer and make sure nothing is caking up on the hammer or top of the sear.

 

[L9X25]

 

Make sure nothing is building up at either of the red arrow locations. 

 

Sorry for the 3rd grade paint work.

[longbeard]

28 minutes ago, L9X25 said:

 

Make sure nothing is building up at either of the red arrow locations. 

 

Sorry for the 3rd grade paint work.

That's what I thought as well.  I've flushed it well, but am going to flood it really well tonight with brake cleaner and get the air compressor on it. 

 

If that doesn't fix it I will remove it and see what's under there.

 

I will report back.

 

 

[L9X25]

I clean my guns every 10 years, or when they stop working, so you will get no judgement from me.

Edited April 23, 2018 by L9X25

[longbeard]

6 minutes ago, L9X25 said:

I clean my guns every 10 years, or when they stop working, so you will get no judgement from me.

LOL!

I cleaned it Saturday.  It failed Sunday.  What's that tell ya?!