M&P 2.0 5" 9mm Competition?

[gsc0tt]

On 7/14/2017 at 5:28 AM, Prov1x said:

Anyone using the M&P 2.0 5" in USPSA yet? If so how do you like it compared to the "pro" model? 

 

What mods have you done to it, trigger - sear - apex? - recoil spring etc? 

 

Thinking of picking one up to try out as I used to shoot one back when I first started shooting USPSA. 

 

I think it will be overlooked due to things like gen5 glock and the Q5 match, etc, etc

 

But with the new rulings i think forward set sear apex trigger, plus all the other good stuff (apex barrel), MP will be great for production

[RH45]

I have my 5", 2.0 set up for carry optics, and have an Apex .45 sear & Apex competition spring kit (less the striker spring), and have rounded off the striker block.

When I dry-fire it, I see the dot move. I played around with putting pieces of cardboard, behind the trigger, because I determined that the dot moving was due to over travel, and with no over travel, the dot isn't moving.

I emailed Apex, and asked them if they knew of any way to eliminate the overtravel, and their answer was that unlike the 1.0, there isn't a way to tune the trigger. They pretty much insisted that I SHOULD remove the competition springs because it COULD be unsafe. The trigger pull on my 2.0 is heavier than any of my 1.0s.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce/eliminate overtravel on a 2.0?

My only thoughts are to install a set screw somewhere. 

[WarrenZ]

I saw a plastic peg behind the trigger on a custom shop gun not sure if there is enough meat there to tap and install a set screw (possibly from behind) or what is in the way as you drill the frame. I wouldnt want to try it without doing it on a bad frame first and probably would recommend doing out on a horizontal boring setup for precision.

[RH45]

19 minutes ago, WarrenZ said:

I saw a plastic peg behind the trigger on a custom shop gun not sure if there is enough meat there to tap and install a set screw (possibly from behind) or what is in the way as you drill the frame. I wouldnt want to try it without doing it on a bad frame first and probably would recommend doing out on a horizontal boring setup for precision.

I thought about that, and don’t like it for 2 reasons. One is that I don’t know if it will hold up, unless it’s solid plastic, and 2, I really don’t want to make any external modifications, in case I want to use it for IDPA. I was toying with the idea of drilling & tapping the sear, and installing a set screw, but, if it should start to move, I may not be able to drop the sear, and get the pistol apart.

[MemphisMechanic]

18 hours ago, RH45 said:

I have my 5", 2.0 set up for carry optics, and have an Apex .45 sear & Apex competition spring kit (less the striker spring), and have rounded off the striker block.

When I dry-fire it, I see the dot move. I played around with putting pieces of cardboard, behind the trigger, because I determined that the dot moving was due to over travel, and with no over travel, the dot isn't moving.

I emailed Apex, and asked them if they knew of any way to eliminate the overtravel, and their answer was that unlike the 1.0, there isn't a way to tune the trigger. They pretty much insisted that I SHOULD remove the competition springs because it COULD be unsafe. The trigger pull on my 2.0 is heavier than any of my 1.0s.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce/eliminate overtravel on a 2.0?

My only thoughts are to install a set screw somewhere. 

 

I have not seen the internals of a 2.0

 

On the 1.0 I welded the back of the bar in a spot that hits the sear housing to build it up, then filed that down until the striker could be dropped.

 

Worked great. Felt it slightly in slow dryfire. Couldn’t tell the difference in live fire, so I skipped offering to do it for my friends. But it was a fun experiment.

[RH45]

4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

I have not seen the internals of a 2.0

 

On the 1.0 I welded the back of the bar in a spot that hits the sear housing to build it up, then filed that down until the striker could be dropped.

 

Worked great. Felt it slightly in slow dryfire. Couldn’t tell the difference in live fire, so I skipped offering to do it for my friends. But it was a fun experiment.

The internals are different between the 1.0 &2.0.

Right now, I have zero creep, so I'm thinking that if I tried to do something with the trigger bar, the trigger wouldn't reset/hold the striker.

I was looking at it this morning, and am not really seeing a good option for installing a set screw internally.

I'm starting to think the best option will almost have to be installing a set screw in to the trigger itself, like a good 1911.

[MemphisMechanic]

@RH45 I looked them up, and they’re not too different.

 

Place JB Weld on the frame block here, or a weld on the back of the trigger bar, and file it down until the trigger can move rearward just enough to break. Then give it another 1/32” or so of travel for reliability’s sake:

 

 

[mpom]

On the 1.0 I welded the back of the bar in a spot that hits the sear housing to build it up, then filed that down until the striker could be dropped.

 

Worked great. Felt it slightly in slow dryfire. Couldn’t tell the difference in live fire, so I skipped offering to do it for my friends. But it was a fun experiment

 

Basically same outcome, only instead of lengthening the trigger bar end I shortened the space in which it travels.

Without access to a welder, I used a slightly different approach- cut a straight section of Allen wrench and laid it in the channnel the trigger bar rides in. Reassembled and tried the trigger pull, reducing the steel piece of Allen wrench with grinding wheel until there was no overtravel when striker released. Epoxied steel piece in place, done.

Not having seen internals of Gen 2.0, not sure if this approach would work, but if sear housing still has the channel in which trigger bar end lives, it should.

 

Mark

 

[RH45]

On 4/1/2018 at 10:35 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

@RH45 I looked them up, and they’re not too different.

 

Place JB Weld on the frame block here, or a weld on the back of the trigger bar, and file it down until the trigger can move rearward just enough to break. Then give it another 1/32” or so of travel for reliability’s sake:

 

 

Thanks!

If I remember correctly, the trigger bar has a forked end, with one part under the sear.

If so, can I get away with just welding/extending the top of the fork, or, do both have to be extended?

[MemphisMechanic]

1 hour ago, RH45 said:

Thanks!

If I remember correctly, the trigger bar has a forked end, with one part under the sear.

If so, can I get away with just welding/extending the top of the fork, or, do both have to be extended?

 

One should be fine. It only has to be strong enough to withstand the “crushing” force you can generate with one finger.