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Everything posted by gsc0tt
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I remember seeing a post about maybe a p09 guide rod, not sure how that would work since it would also be short
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Didn't know that about the non-flat recoil springs, I need to try one
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Maybe convert to the new sear block with larger sear spring and plunger? Apex had me do that to my older version
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Ya almost has a sweet spot, mine is the same way
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Going down the same rabbit hole myself Just when I thought the super thin ESS was the end of the quest for the ear and eye protection combo, I find out apparently I can't see Going to try some RX oakley Turbines, if that doesnt work contacts under my ESS
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Its definitely not relaxing after everything is set, just like you say there is no point in relaxing and un-doing all the necessary tension that was just set up. Initial relaxation as a baseline then adding only what is necessary (which yes is a decent amount to shoot fast). Adding pressure at the hands without adding tension at hand muscles, sorry didn't mean use no muscles and tension at all and be a big blob -If you put your finger inside a nut cracker and close it, the most efficient point would be to operate it at the very end of the arms to get the greatest effect with least input (leverage). The clamping force is being derived from a different location of where the actual clamping point is, being applied through leverage
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I have always been curious about these, have you compared the next to a standard slide, i was wondering how all the added weight in the slide alone would feel
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Harry ... youve got that crazy look in your eye
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High to the bore line as possible, always Nutcracker [skeletal structure] leverage imagery (referring to inward pressure onto the grip of the gun with relaxed hand muscles/meat below thumbs) is what came to mind of an example of applying pressure with skeletal leverage instead of muscle tension
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I'm sure this one will be familiar "Let it do"
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Id recommend handling both prior to the choice, even shooting at matches or back to back Might help your decision
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One method I saw that seemed interesting was having wall sections separate than end pieces. 2x4's with bases as ends with j-hooks, then wall sections with eyelets to hang on the end pieces. Little more work for initial build, but then replacing wall legs is much simpler since you don't have to create a whole new piece
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Find a buddy with another chrono and side by side each to see any differences in FPS reading
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using the 145 bayou round nose currently, no issues
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Mr Bullet Feeder vs Bully Adapter?
gsc0tt replied to Tokarev's topic in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
I do have a DAA mini mr bullet and I like it, however i purchased it with store credit at BSPS, that being spend if I was spending cash I would wait for the standard model -
Frankford Arsenal Scale accuracy problems
gsc0tt replied to jerryz's topic in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
I switched to a DAA click adjuster for fine tuning, and just use the scale to get in the ball park for new loads, pretty cool -
Leverage pressure: Treat your fingers at your front strap like a hinge point As you bring your gun up from a low ready position, if your pivot point is set, your hand and forearms will close (use imagery of a nut cracker)
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This is why my first post is was so ambiguous, figured attempting to paraphrase and describe what I discovered at TPC would just initiate flaming, true Lots of Ron Avery videos on youtube, check them out and if they seem interesting go for class. If not then keep on trucking
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DAA thick, its what I ended on after trying CZC thick, various g10 from amazon, and hennings. It has a very square side and also pushes the "corner" of the grips back, creating a larger overall radius
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I think it will be overlooked due to things like gen5 glock and the Q5 match, etc, etc But with the new rulings i think forward set sear apex trigger, plus all the other good stuff (apex barrel), MP will be great for production
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Is there play in your slide? I have so much play in my slide left to right I thought about doing an frame mount optic to an open minor setup I had but figured it would be silly
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I have SSS large brass and small brass (i think they called it L10) I use the large brass when I have brass weights inside a TLR1 upfront, and use the small brass when I have a TLR1 with actual batteries in it