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BOLO Tuning for a longer DA pull


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20 hours ago, GTIV said:

what I did notice is the old interuptor does push the hammer further back than the PD Bolo

When I fitted this bolo it would not work on SA. I followed the Instructions from PD website and got SA Working.
DA would not even push the hammer back.. it seems we have a thicker trigger bar here in ZA.
So I spoke to PD and Joe told me what to do and Now the DA does push hammer back and breaks as well fine.

I think I just need the hammer to go further back on DA.

Sent from my VTR-L29 using Tapatalk
 

Get us some pics on graph paper where the BOLO DA breaks compared to your factory interrupter DA broke at...... From what i recall from our conversation you where running S&B primers which is about as hard as they come. There seems to be some difference in the trigger bar thickness on SF tanfos, Ive been working on one lately that required some extensive fitting in both the height and the curve. 

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The bolo tuning thread was meant as a fine tune for guns that were ALREADY working. Yet here we go with the CCI, S&B, etc. won't light off, yet primer depth is laughable. 

 

It's not meant to be a second, single stage press or primer tool. 

 

Lol. Good lord.

 

 

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Update for you guys:

After spending 5hours with my Gunsmith and loads of measurements and one bolo later we have managed to find a solution. We had disassembled and reassembled the gun atleast 50times lol

I have now installed PD 14lb hammer spring with the second BOLO.
DA is 6lb
SA is just over 2lb.

I have made no adjustments to my primers at all. I shot about 120 DA pulls today with Zero light strikes on S&B Primers.

Thanks to all for the advice and Thanks to Patriot Defence to an awesome product.


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I need to discuss with Joe first as my Stock 2 small frame is different. So I don't want to advise people wrong here.

We took off material as normal on the bow part for the SA. We also took off material on the "tip" but also created an angle so that the edge of the Bolo actually sits over the ramp towards the magwell which allows the Bolo to get lower down on to the trigger bar and get DA but also long enough to touch the ramp when the trigger is pulled.








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Thank you for sharing your resolution. Once all the facts were in - it was popping those primers before, only the bolo was changed, etc - it was pretty obvious I had you chasing up the wrong (primer) tree for a full page of this thread.

 

Sorry about that and I'm glad your gun is 100%

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Thank you for sharing your resolution. Once all the facts were in - it was popping those primers before, only the bolo was changed, etc - it was pretty obvious I had you chasing up the wrong (primer) tree for a full page of this thread.
 
Sorry about that and I'm glad your gun is 100%


No worries man
We here to help each other and learn as well.


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8 hours ago, GTIV said:

I have now installed PD 14lb hammer spring with the second BOLO.
DA is 6lb
SA is just over 2lb.

I have made no adjustments to my primers at all. I shot about 120 DA pulls today with Zero light strikes on S&B Primers.

Thanks to all for the advice and Thanks to Patriot Defence to an awesome product.

 

glad it's working. It's nice knowing that the gun will fire them off. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, GTIV said:

This is what my Bolo looks like after modification .3ff640623ed19958ebeee0efb3b29c01.jpg

 

Sent from my VTR-L29 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

How was the DA pull compared to stock interrupter?  How close is the over-travel screw adjusted between DA and SA?

 

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My gun is slightly different since. I am based in another part of the world.
In order for me to get the DA to work I had to get the Bolo to sit lower or further forward slightly over the ramp like the stock interuptor.
So we cut the slight 45 degree angle on the top which allowed the tip to sit just over or past the ramp.

Now DA works perfectly with it bringing the hammer far enough back to light all primers that I have tried. S&B and cci.

I am using 14pd main spring

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10 hours ago, zombywoof said:

 

How was the DA pull compared to stock interrupter?  How close is the over-travel screw adjusted between DA and SA?

 

 

DA pull is going to be most effected by polishing correct areas. The bolo, and PD springs help, but anyone with a butter DA has a premium polish job. 

 

Also, I'm guessing the above has a small frame? 

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  • 5 months later...

Awesome thread until the sb/ 

primer discussion lol.

 

My new S2 has a shorter throw and I was looking at the issue.

 

wondering if and incorrect disco would wear out the frame....

noticed a few guys talking about frame wear by the disco....

 

 

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Can figure this out I think, but it seems dumb to fret or fiddle when you can just ask somebody who has the answer. 

 

Bought a Stock 2 40 caliber, new gun as far as use but old style frame, installed all the usual goodies from Patriot Defense, this is the third gun I've fiddled with but my other 2 had the newer frame. 

 

With a new unmolested PD bolo, the bolo can not drop down, needs material removed off of the circular area very likely. Installed my severely molested 'fiddle with" bolo, this is a PD bolo that has had material removed from the arc and which has had a bit too much ,material removed from the tip to allow my double action to release in my two other guns. 

 

With the fiddle with bolo installed, single action is perfect, double action works perfect about 24 out of 25 times as long as I give it a normal pull (at any speed). When double action fails it fails to allow the hammer to drop. I can cause the gun to fail 100% of the time by pulling the hammer back onto the 1/2 cock notch before pulling the trigger, or by pulling the trigger until it is at the half cock notch & then letting the trigger come forward a tiny smidge before pulling the trigger this rest of the way.

 

My thinking is that the severely molested bolo is just a wee tiny bit too short & contoured well otherwise, figured I'd run it by the brain trust before grinding away at well engineered brand new bolo. 

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if it is not dropping now with the unmodified disco then start by modding the arch until it works fully.

 

whenever you work on the gun just go one step at the time, once you achieve function on that stage, move on to the next step. That way you can keep track of you measurement, remember the gun is a system, and these guns are different to one another due to factory tolerances.

 

I just fitted both my discos, I just finished doing it and the trigger feels the same however I can get more throw in both hammers. Once I had the throw I wanted then I adjusted the over travel screw while maintaining a functioning firing pin safety.

 

In the S2 with 2.000 rounds (both my guns are relatively new) the trigger break is a beauty now, there is a very respectable over travel or the lack thereof, very happy with this trigger now. I just put LIGHT EGD springs in it to see if I can lit SB primers with it now that I have a tiny bit more throw.

 

My second S2, also has a modded disco, with this one I had to bring the disco down to 0.510 from 0.565 and I can still shave some more but since the gun is new I figured to give it some room to brake in and perhaps the throw increases a bit on its own in the next 1.000 rounds. This gun has MEDIUM EGD springs and it is the gun I am going to practice with tomorrow as I have little faith in SB primers with EGD light springs (TITAN hammer in both guns).

 

Cheers and thank you for another great thread! Stop posting things because I keep polishing these guns ! I have no life!!!

 

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I've installed 5 Bolos now, and ruined several before I finally got it all worked out.  My advice is to follow the PD instructions on fitting the Bolo first, and ensure that you're ALWAYS testing it with the slide installed - never test it with trigger pull without having the slide installed, get it fitted with the SA working first, then DA, and then if it needs it, work on the tip to lengthen the DA pull.  Doing it that way has resulted in 5 successful installs, "fiddling" trying to do steps out of order or trying to "fix" an already molested Bolo, never worked and was a waste of time.

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48 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

I've installed 5 Bolos now, and ruined several before I finally got it all worked out.  My advice is to follow the PD instructions on fitting the Bolo first, and ensure that you're ALWAYS testing it with the slide installed - never test it with trigger pull without having the slide installed, get it fitted with the SA working first, then DA, and then if it needs it, work on the tip to lengthen the DA pull.  Doing it that way has resulted in 5 successful installs, "fiddling" trying to do steps out of order or trying to "fix" an already molested Bolo, never worked and was a waste of time.

this is a perfect recommendation.......

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21 hours ago, Avenida said:

Awesome thread until the sb/ 

primer discussion lol.

 

My new S2 has a shorter throw and I was looking at the issue.

 

wondering if and incorrect disco would wear out the frame....

noticed a few guys talking about frame wear by the disco....

 

 

Even a factory interrupter will begin to put a divot in the ramp over time... its just the way the stack up height lays out on these guns. Unfortunately dimensions vary greatly as we all know.....

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6 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

I've installed 5 Bolos now, and ruined several before I finally got it all worked out.  My advice is to follow the PD instructions on fitting the Bolo first, and ensure that you're ALWAYS testing it with the slide installed - never test it with trigger pull without having the slide installed, get it fitted with the SA working first, then DA, and then if it needs it, work on the tip to lengthen the DA pull.  Doing it that way has resulted in 5 successful installs, "fiddling" trying to do steps out of order or trying to "fix" an already molested Bolo, never worked and was a waste of time.

 

Sensible & no argument.

 

Still curious about why the combination I've got acts the way it does though (won't disengage if you start d.a. with hammer at half cock stop). Not important, but curios. 

 

EDIT: 

Went with new bolo & figured I'd do it the paint by numbers way. Had to remove a bit of metal along the arc to get single action to work but no big deal.

Next step instructions say "If DA does not break remove material from angle 2. "  Right now the issue is not that the D.A. pulls the hammer back and does not break, the issue is that the hammer does not move at all in d.a. . Anyone know if "removing material from angle 2" is still the correct next step? 

 

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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21 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Sensible & no argument.

 

Still curious about why the combination I've got acts the way it does though (won't disengage if you start d.a. with hammer at half cock stop). Not important, but curios. 

 

EDIT: 

Went with new bolo & figured I'd do it the paint by numbers way. Had to remove a bit of metal along the arc to get single action to work but no big deal.

Next step instructions say "If DA does not break remove material from angle 2. "  Right now the issue is not that the D.A. pulls the hammer back and does not break, the issue is that the hammer does not move at all in d.a. . Anyone know if "removing material from angle 2" is still the correct next step? 

 

 

That would be the point where you just call Joe at PD and have him walk you through it.  

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