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Will it light?


fischeac

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1 hour ago, fischeac said:

I am going to test this combo but thought I would run it by the group first. 

Stock firing pin, E.G. Light pin spring, PD12 hammer spring, stock hammer, decent polish job. 

Will it light winchester primers?

I was only getting ~50% with the EG Light pin spring, PD12 hammer, Titan, Henning Gen 5, and polished. That was with CCI though. I just put in the PD pin spring and polished it all again, we'll see.

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53 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said:

i've had success with that combo but once again it depends on your polishing job. You need to cut your EG Light FP spring or get our new optimized FP spring to get the most out of the 12lb hammer spring as well. 

Yesterday I installed this setup in my pistol with a EG light FP spring that I cut (about 5 coils past tip of pin) , dry fired, and FP was getting stuck in front if the FPB so I swapped the spring with one that is uncut.

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Wes- From our own test and what other guys on the forum have found out the stock or Xtreme FP's hit harder than the Henning pins. 

Fish- That's a problem a lot of guys see when having to cut that much off your FP spring, i designed our FP spring to have a mechanical stop in it that prevents the FP from over traveling while still giving you a 50% reduction in spring rate over the EG spring. Not trying to make a sale here just a firm believer in the FP spring needing to be tuned to your hammer spring properly. 

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You cut too far!  the pd 12, start at 8-9 past the tip.

1 hour ago, fischeac said:

Yesterday I installed this setup in my pistol with a EG light FP spring that I cut (about 5 coils past tip of pin) , dry fired, and FP was getting stuck in front if the FPB so I swapped the spring with one that is uncut.

 

The henning is the weak link. Use the factory FP. Also the EG L needs to be cut 8-9 coils past the tip. But cut springs are ALWAYS susceptible to stuck pin syndrome. PD return spring isn't.   My opinion is that for CCI, the pd13 or 14 is needed for reliable ignition.  Those are some hard suckers! They really need the whole ammo envelope optimized. Must plunk and spin freely, all be diameter checked (Steoger hundo or similar) and the primers must be deep enough but not crushed by going too deep etc.  to use them, higher force is needed and lightened triggers may not be generating enough force. The pd 13&14 both hit harder than the EG light. So if they fail your options are wolfe 15, 16 or EG medium and the 8-ish DA they give.  yes, primer shortages suck!

Polish the firing pin hole, the hammer pins and holes. While it's out.  makes it smoother and faster (my opinion).

 

1 hour ago, Wesquire said:

I was only getting ~50% with the EG Light pin spring, PD12 hammer, Titan, Henning Gen 5, and polished. That was with CCI though. I just put in the PD pin spring and polished it all again, we'll see.

 

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50 minutes ago, johnbu said:

My opinion is that for CCI, the pd13 or 14 is needed for reliable ignition. 

My experience personally has been exactly this. The Winchester primers are lighter, but it took 14lbs PD spring to ignitemost factory loading. 

I run 14lbs hammer spring with the stock firing pin. The Henning was still giving me fits so I went original pin, and the PD firing pin spring.

Edited by ryridesmotox
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The xtreme firing pins are overpriced and I am done changing parts. I'm just going switch to federal primers. I'll just go back to the EG light hammer spring until I'm out of CCI. The PD spring is a lot nicer though. 

 

Henning needs to come out with a heavy firing pin option.

 

Edit: Ended up trying out the stock pin and it was 100%. 

Edited by Wesquire
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been setting off Winchester primers 100% with the 10lbs PD hammer spring.

I did extensive polishing on the gun and I did clip about 1/4 inch off the PD firing pin spring.

Having played in revolvers I feel people don't pay enough attention to primer seating. With a DA gun it helps to bury the primer. Go to TK Customs website and look in the section for action jobs, they have a link to a photo of a "properly" seated primer. I have a 1050 and it makes burying the primers easier and more consistent.  Yes I use mixed brass. 

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The xtreme firing pins are overpriced and I am done changing parts. I'm just going switch to federal primers. I'll just go back to the EG light hammer spring until I'm out of CCI. The PD spring is a lot nicer though. 

 

Henning needs to come out with a heavy firing pin option.

 

Edit: Ended up trying out the stock pin and it was 100%. 

The xtreme FP is the same weight as the stock, and almost exactly the same length. The only thing different about it is the hammer impact surface is a dome, while the stock is flat.

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My Xtreme firing pins are indistinguishable from what came in the guns from the factory, but I never paid attention to the struck ends.  interesting, will have to look again!

Gosh, with great success of the BOLO interruptor, the hammer springs and FP return springs.... wouldn't it be nice if Patriot Defense made a firing pin too?

 

 

Edited by johnbu
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I've got the PD Firing pin spring, Xtreme FP, Bolo, Titan and 12lb Hammer spring in my Limited Pro.  I'm setting off Win and CCI 100%.  I'll have to get some CCI to try.  I don't want to have to use only one primer in this political climate.

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17 minutes ago, aandabooks said:

I've got the PD Firing pin spring, Xtreme FP, Bolo, Titan and 12lb Hammer spring in my Limited Pro.  I'm setting off Win and CCI 100%.  I'll have to get some CCI to try.  I don't want to have to use only one primer in this political climate.

Did you mean Win & Federal?

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Johnbu- you need to stop hacking into our R&D folder and looking at our latest Tanfo projects........ A heavier extended firing pin is close fellas, hopefully by weeks end we'll have something to show for. 



Ok. It's official. PM when you start importing Tanfos and replacing all the parts inside of it.

I'll buy one.
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Hahaha!  you should change your password!  the last 44 digits of Pi before it starts repeating is just too obvious.

2 hours ago, PatriotDefense said:

Johnbu- you need to stop hacking into our R&D folder and looking at our latest Tanfo projects........ A heavier extended firing pin is close fellas, hopefully by weeks end we'll have something to show for. 

 

Edited by johnbu
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2 hours ago, PatriotDefense said:

Johnbu- you need to stop hacking into our R&D folder and looking at our latest Tanfo projects........ A heavier extended firing pin is close fellas, hopefully by weeks end we'll have something to show for. 

Make an out of separated uranium lol

6 hours ago, aandabooks said:

I've got the PD Firing pin spring, Xtreme FP, Bolo, Titan and 12lb Hammer spring in my Limited Pro.  I'm setting off Win and CCI 100%.  I'll have to get some CCI to try.  I don't want to have to use only one primer in this political climate.

We might need to turn these things into old school cap ignited crap if the political climate doesn't improve

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  • 1 month later...
On Sunday, October 09, 2016 at 11:02 PM, mjmagee67 said:

I've been setting off Winchester primers 100% with the 10lbs PD hammer spring.

I did extensive polishing on the gun and I did clip about 1/4 inch off the PD firing pin spring.

Having played in revolvers I feel people don't pay enough attention to primer seating. With a DA gun it helps to bury the primer. Go to TK Customs website and look in the section for action jobs, they have a link to a photo of a "properly" seated primer. I have a 1050 and it makes burying the primers easier and more consistent.  Yes I use mixed brass. 

So, interesting point about this -

I actually have read that piece, and as soon as I started following their guidelines, I have not had a single light strike, or need for a double tap. 

I think so many... MANY people don't realize how important proper primer seat depth is, when running a extremely light trigger. They always want to blame the gun/parts. When I ask if the had to strike it twice to light, and they reply yes, I know it's not the gun.

I seat my primers .008 to .010 deep. If I can't see a dimple, it's not deep enough. I've never had a crushed primer or failure to light. I think a lot of folks need primer seating 101 before they start chasing trigger weights and blaming gun parts, etc.

 

-ARy

Photo_2016-11-29_10-00-40_PM_zps7eizfizu

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26 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Problem is that I don't have a way to CrushDimpleSeat my primers on a 650.

Need a 1050 even more now.

I want to preface this and be very clear about what I'm talking about, before the Blue Legion comes after me with pitch forks and torches - this is SPECIFICALLY in regards to chasing low trigger weight. As it pertains to Tanfos and the PD 10/12# hammer springs... The Loadmaster > 550/650. Adjustable primer depth alone makes the Lee Loadmaster superior in this SPECIFIC instance. 

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I bleed blue, buddy.

...And I agree with you.

Primer swaging and full seating depth adjustments are the primary reasons on top of the list that have a 1050 high in my "wants."

Fortunately, I'm damned happy with the trigger that resulted from my 14# PD hammer spring.

Once the barrel is back from Bevin and I have gotten the hammer/firing pin mechanisms fully polished, I expect I'll have a gun that runs 100%. I "only" had two malfunctions in my second match,  which is a 500% reduction from the first one.

(I've also begun hunting down ammo with the deepest-seated primers and marking the back with a sharpie. Those are specifically loaded as the top round in my 11-rd mags. Haven't had issues with a DA second-strike being needed anymore.)

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Bleeding blue is no excuse to have poorly seated primers... Have you though about getting a separate primer seating device so you can adequately control depth? 

Let me also say, I shoot with several precision rifle shooters, they all use handheld primer seating devices to make sure their primers are seated properly. They prefer the precision of having it right in front of you with little leverage applied, instead of the larger leverage by the loader's extended arm. They don't do the quantities of a 9mm like most of us do. But they do several hundred a week

Edited by ryridesmotox
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I load on a 650. I can dimple primers. I also have a roller bearing on my press so I don't have the wobble. Maybe that's why. I can straight flatten primers at times if I'm not paying attention and the pocket is a bit tight. 

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