CrashDodson Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I have read that newer glocks don't bulge brass as bad as previous generations. With that said does it still make sense to run 40 brass through a bulge buster or g-rx, or just case cage after and discard what doesn't gauge? I ran a batch of about 200 40 the other day and had 10 that wouldn't gauge. Is there accuracy or other issues that could come up from a non resized case that fits the case gauge? If re-sizing is recommended would it be ok to get a toolhead for my 550 and add the universal decaping die and the bulge buster or would it be better to have a separate single stage for the bulge buster? If I am going to need to use the bulge buster I might as well decap so they clean up extra pretty. I want to get a 100 round case gauge but I cant drop the coin on that plus the resizing gear. Trying to decide what should be a priority. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Not a bad idea to get a bulge buster. I picked up one to run range brass through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 If they didn't case gauge, did they still feed in your gun? You might be finding an elegant solution to a non existent problem in your case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassblower Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I mostly use once fired and range brass and always resize using either the Dillon or Redding Competition Die set. I also use this same setup for any brass cycled through my older Glock. But, any ammo that will be used for competition or important practice, gets case gauged. For me, whether I would use a bulge buster or other resizing die, I would always case gauge important ammo. Hence IMO, a case gauge is necessary if you intend to use the ammo for matches or in places where a FTF would be bad. You might reduce the amount of tossed ammo if you use the bulge buster or similar dies, but not remove the need to case gauge. Depending on the case gauge and you gun, they might detect an overly long OAL, which depending on who you ask, might affect accuracy. Oh, I hate case gauging and have one of the 100 round case gauges, if I thought I could get away with it, I wouldn't gauge, but when I get one of those rounds that jams in my gun because of a bulge, I cuss a lot. A whole lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARRYJ Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I case gauge since, besides making sure it fits in the gun, it gives me an opportunity to check the primer. Make sure it's seated and not upside down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 If they didn't case gauge, did they still feed in your gun? You might be finding an elegant solution to a non existent problem in your case. Well said. I don't usually gauge my practice rounds. The other day I had 3-4 failures to go into battery. Its not a BIG deal but its frustrating when your running drills with limited time and have to stop to clear malfunctions that could have been avoided. Good practice in field course practice but annoying in drills. Gauging each round one by one is a slow process, that's why I was considering the 100 round case gauge. What i was not sure about is would a slightly bulged case that still chambers and ejects, but maybe not uniform, effect accuracy or anything like that (warranting a buster regardless of fancy case gauge). So its buy a case gauge to find and discard the trouble makers or buy a bulge buster and possibly another press to eliminate the trouble makers. II would still end up gauging match ammo either way but if I need a buster I might have to wait on the hundo and carry on with my single gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurusty Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I run all mine through my 550 with Dillon tools and use my single stage with the bulge buster, that way I don't have to live my cases. Works fine for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 I run all my 40 brass through a grx push through die on my single stage before going on 650. I don't mind the extra step because every case passes the guage. Redding grx die is great. Also makes the press run smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 I run all my 40 brass through a grx push through die on my single stage before going on 650. I don't mind the extra step because every case passes the guage. Redding grx die is great. Also makes the press run smoother. What single stage press are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 get the U-Die...all is well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 get the U-Die...all is well... I have been reading about those....any difference in the EGW and Lee? I read Lee makes both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbagger123 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 i must be one of the few that has never had any problems that needed a push die. i have loaded thousands of 9 and 40 with just stock lee dies. lubing the cases really helped with getting them all the way down close to the bottom of the case. coupled that with the FCD I rarely have issues with ammo other than oal not right for a gun. All I use is range brass and some of it is Glocked brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Do you load the lubed cases or do you size and then tumble? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbagger123 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Do you load the lubed cases or do you size and then tumble? lube them and then load them on my progressive and then tumble the finished rounds in corn cob for about 30 mins to get off the lube.. comes out bright and shiny. even though i have guage for 9 and 40 i never found a need for them with my setup. Edited February 9, 2016 by Sandbagger123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz125mm700 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Do you load the lubed cases or do you size and then tumble?lube them and then load them on my progressive and then tumble the finished rounds in corn cob for about 30 mins to get off the lube.. comes out bright and shiny. even though i have guage for 9 and 40 i never found a need for them with my setup. What your process for lubing them? And why tumble after? I've read some people put a hundred rounds or so in a zip lock bag, spray some one shot in there and shake it up. If this method is used is it nessesary to tumble the finished rounds? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 I've just read that lube on the inside of the case is bad Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansedgli Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I use a 40 egw undersized die. Unless there is a problem with the rim being dinged up it will drop through the Lee die you would use to bulge bust. I was going to get a single stage to bulge bust the egw eliminates the need without adding steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbagger123 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Do you load the lubed cases or do you size and then tumble?lube them and then load them on my progressive and then tumble the finished rounds in corn cob for about 30 mins to get off the lube.. comes out bright and shiny. even though i have guage for 9 and 40 i never found a need for them with my setup. What your process for lubing them? And why tumble after? I've read some people put a hundred rounds or so in a zip lock bag, spray some one shot in there and shake it up. If this method is used is it nessesary to tumble the finished rounds?Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk i put them on a tray with sides and spray the tray and add cases and toss them around. this keeps lube out of the inside. i tumble after they are loaded as i have found the lube to pick up sand and grit when dropped on the ground. some people don't tumble and it really a personal choice. you only need to tumble about 30 mins or less to get the lube off. my Thumblers UV18 can do 300 finished 40 easily in one run. i know lots of people will say no need to lube carbide dies, but try it once and see for yourself how much easier it is on your machine and how much consistant your rounds will come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 and I thought I was done with my dry media tumbler :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I run all my 40 brass through a grx push through die on my single stage before going on 650. I don't mind the extra step because every case passes the guage. Redding grx die is great. Also makes the press run smoother. What single stage press are you using? Lee single stage. I know it's an extra step but I don't mind being all 40 rds are for competitions. Running them through the grx first makes my 650 run even smoother. I know the u dies work pretty well but with the grx you know it's being size 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 get the U-Die...all is well... I have been reading about those....any difference in the EGW and Lee? I read Lee makes both. I think they are the same ones...I use them for both my 9mm and .40 cal. I forgot which one I have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruleyoutoo1911 Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) get the U-Die...all is well... I have been reading about those....any difference in the EGW and Lee? I read Lee makes both. I think they are the same ones...I use them for both my 9mm and .40 cal. I forgot which one I have... According to the EGW site, they radius the bottom of the die in order for the die to resize farther down on the case. http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=840 Edited February 10, 2016 by ruleyoutoo1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 I've got the lee die in 40 and decided to get the bulge buster since the sizing die was not removing it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 get the U-Die...all is well...I have been reading about those....any difference in the EGW and Lee? I read Lee makes both. I think they are the same ones...I use them for both my 9mm and .40 cal. I forgot which one I have... According to the EGW site, they radius the bottom of the die in order for the die to resize farther down on the case. http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=840 I think that's just referring to how all Lee dies size down further than other brands. My guess is the Lee and EGW U dies are identical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbagger123 Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 here are some pix i took before of the before and after of lubing and using a lee regular die. its all brass shot out of a Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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