Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Dillon xl650 .40s&w


Eliboudreaux

Recommended Posts

New to reloading,just bought my dillon xl650 for .40sw, and also bought Lee .40sw Deluxe Carbide 4 Die Set, and also just to make sure i bought seperate a Lee Udie Carbide (sizer/decapper), which Die im i gonna use? the standard one or the Udie? need infos, thanks in advance.

STI 2011 .40

Edited by Eliboudreaux
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used a Lee die set since I started reloading. Lee sizer, bullet seater and crimp die. No problems in my STI Edge 40. Used all kinds of range pick ups, even Glocked brass.

Properly set up dies make a world of difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same for me I been using lee dies in 40s&w before I got my XL650 and as now been using them in my XL650 for awhile with no issue at all. If I recall on lee sizing die I had to use the locking ring on the under side of the die plate to get it setup to we're it needed.

I load for my STI and Glock. By the way I use all range mixed head stamp brass.

Go for it and good choice on the XL650 the best money I ever spent on reloading press.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Redding grx die on single stage first than run them on 650. Since using grx die every case passes guage and the press runs smoother with the cases being run through that grx die first. Don't mind the extra step since my fails on the guage have went to zero. I use Dillon sizer, Lee bullet seater and Lee factory crimp. Sti 40 edge custom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 S@W is where the U die shines. Either a U die or a Lee Standard sizing die is in station one on every caliber I load. Seen

several S-I pistols that wouldn't run start running by just changing the sizing die.

Recheck the U die after others are set, use a small strip of paper as a go no go gauge, should pull out with slight effort with

pressure on the operating handle. You will need to place the lock nut on the bottom of the tool head prefer a Dillon nut and a

good wrench or socket. The carbide ring is closer to the mouth of the die and if it hits the shell plate it can crack the carbide

ring. Because you just sized the brass tighter you need to check the powder funnel. A piece of sized brass should slip over

the funnel. I turned the funnel down in a drill press using sandpaper the polished both the outside and inside of the funnel.

Stops powder bridging above the funnel.

Lee's seating die, if your shooting one bullet type for a few bucks send the bullet to Lee and they will cut an insert for that bullets

that matches it's design, I had a flat insert made because I shoot varied bullet shapes and it pushes on the nose of the bullet

keeping OAL tight. You can mark the knob on top with a sharpie to go from one bullet to another.

Prefer Dillon's crimp die, measure the bullet seated in the case subtract two to four thousands and that where crimp should be set.

Loading long for S-I guns, 1.220 and have never had a feeding issue. I'm 70, been shooting this combination a long time.

Push through dies are a great idea but not needed in 40 S@W, the slide won't batter the case as bad as 45acp.

The U die will work with one pass through the press.

Be sure and lube cases makes the whole process easier on the brass, press and the operator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A cheaper way to fashion your own seating plug is by removing the seater, placing a dollop of jbweld in the cavity, and molding it to fit with a bullet.

I used this method to make proper top punches for a lube sizer but it also works with odd or unusual bullet designs for seating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...