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cmore issues


tcazes

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I noticed tonight that I can use a bore sight and dial in my cmore perfectly. Shoot a 5 shot group in the same hole in fact. But go shoot a plate rack rapidly and come back to find my dot about 4 inches high compared to the bore sight....what gives? It's a plastic, non click mounted on a egm tru sight 90 degree mount. Over a trubor with a t2 barrel and comp....what could it be? Both lock screws are cranked down as tight as possible with an L shaped allen...

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At what distance are you bore sighting. Also. bore sighting is just to get you on paper. You should sight your gun in at 25 yards or better yet 50 yards. If you sight in at 7 or 10 yards like some people do, you will find your point of impact is much higher at distance. Parallax will get you.

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At what distance are you bore sighting. Also. bore sighting is just to get you on paper. You should sight your gun in at 25 yards or better yet 50 yards. If you sight in at 7 or 10 yards like some people do, you will find your point of impact is much higher at distance. Parallax will get you.

This is pretty much true except a 90 mount puts the dot only slightly above where iron sights would be so parallax is minimized. I sighted mine in at 25 yards and it shoots right on the dot except for targets in the 5 foot range. With my old upright mount I had to be aware of shooting way low up close and pretty high at 35 yards. The 90 mount has all but eliminated that issue.

But like I said, there is truth in what you said for sure. Im also curious at what range this, "5 shot group in same hole" occurred. Sounds pretty close to me.

Did the OP hit all the plates perfectly? Was the dot on at that range? If so maybe the heat in the barrel is messing with the boresight gizmo? OP should keep shooting the gun and see if it ACTUALLY SHOOTS where it should be. If it is forget about the boresight tool and start shooting.

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I was shooting from a rest at 20 yds to get the 5 shot group. I had no problem hitting steel it's just when I went back to paper I was grouping consistently low. Put the bore sight in and surely it's back with the dot high. I mean it's not a giant problem like the difference between an alpha or delta but was just curious if anyone else's walks around so to speak...

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I mean it's not a giant problem like the difference between an alpha or delta

Makes more sense now. My guess is something is wrong with the adjustment screw. Put a mark on it to see if it turns while you shoot it..Try a small dot of white out if you still have any. After that I would suspect it may be defective. Is it new? Did it work before if not?

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I got it on a used gun so I don't know the history of it to be honest. It had dead batteries on arrival even though it was turned off so not sure of its past. I marked the screws and they don't look to have moved any..

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I got it on a used gun so I don't know the history of it to be honest. It had dead batteries on arrival even though it was turned off so not sure of its past. I marked the screws and they don't look to have moved any..

I'll bet the sight is broken somehow. Could be bad electronics or maybe even a crack you can't see. Cmore is great to work with. Email them and describe the issue. They'll fix it cheap
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This past year I have had two issues with two different c-mores that required a trip back to the manufacturer for repair.

1. Slightly Loose lens. I shot the steel nationals with it but it had a "wandering zero".

2. The windage adjustment screw is staked onto it's nut and that staking came loose allowing adjustment screw to wander.

In both case C-more was great about doing the fixes for a very reasonable fee. In the case #2 above the very nice customer service lady asked if it was on a 90 degree mount. It wasn't when I got it, but the gun ( I bought used) was originally built with a Quinn 90 degree mount so it probably was for a little while.

Also, as an FYI over tightening the set/lock screws doesn't really help and can crack the plastic frame. It is best to just give them a little snuging. If that isn't working then apply something like Vibratite to the adjustment screws, that seems to help keep the adjustments stable and reduce the backlash in the screws when adjusting.

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Hello: When I adjust the elevation screw I make sure it is pushing it up. If you move it back and forth it leaves it kinda slack. So I move past it and then come back to my adjustment. In the machine world we call it taking the backlash out. Try that and see if that helps. Don't over tighten the lock screws, just snug works fine. Thanks, Eric

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I definitely hear ya on pulling out slack.

Cmore responded and simply put, the sight was never meant to be run without a blast shield. As expected. And the necessary pricing to send it in for repair assessment or upgrade to a metal one. I'll opt to go bacj to the traditional mount and test. If still a no go....well....iv been wanting an rts2/3..

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I definitely hear ya on pulling out slack.

Cmore responded and simply put, the sight was never meant to be run without a blast shield. As expected. And the necessary pricing to send it in for repair assessment or upgrade to a metal one. I'll opt to go bacj to the traditional mount and test. If still a no go....well....iv been wanting an rts2/3..

That's kind of bogus on their part. There are probably thousands of these sights being ran without blast shields that work just fine.
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I don't believe that part about it not being designed to run without a blast shield.

The Serendipity was the original and it has no blast shield. The guns back then probably put more stress on the sight at the old power factor.

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Bamboo I agree completely.

I also agree with the old serendipity not having it but hey that's the answer I git so gotta live with it I guess..

"Your issue is going to be with the way the sight is mounted. The sight is not designed to take the recoil mounted sideways, and that can cause your adjustments to loosen. You can send your sight in to have them tightened, but keeping the sight mounted 90 degrees you have eventually have this issue again.

If you wanted to upgrade to the aluminum body, you can have a re-body done for $129.00, or you can trade it in on a new Slide Ride aluminum for $219.00."

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i had two guys i shoot with locally with the same issue. mounted them back vertical and problems disappeared. go figure lol. i mounted it back the traditional way and will check it out at the range today.

ideal sight in distance is the farthest average shot of your local match imo.

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