kamikaze1a Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 A while back I read a thread that mentioned a Brownell product that when applied to the comp, reduced carbon and lead buildup or made the deposit easier to remove. As I recall it was a two part lube or anti-friction treatment with a Brownell label but I can't find the thread and can't find the item at Brownells. Any idea what that is or what works well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) I use Hornady one shot case lube. Only for carbon as there is no lead build up with mg. Edited September 22, 2015 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I spray a bit of one shot 'gun cleaner and dry lube' on/in the comp. I think it helps but I've never had massive issue cleaning it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 A while back I read a thread that mentioned a Brownell product that when applied to the comp, reduced carbon and lead buildup or made the deposit easier to remove. As I recall it was a two part lube or anti-friction treatment with a Brownell label but I can't find the thread and can't find the item at Brownells. Any idea what that is or what works well? A spritz of Dillon case lube into the comp ports every 50 rounds or so will make a world of difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Just a little bit of Dillon case lube or any other lanolin based product seems to work the best for me. Dillon Case lube, Fluid Flim products, or even straight lanolin on a cotton swab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 MG JHP's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy69 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Weapon Shield solvent. You will shoot everything out the next time after you spray it in and let it soak. It will also put a protective layer down for future. Call direct, 1-800-390-1535 and use the Don Stout 15% discount code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc10mm Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) I bought a used open gun and the comp was filled with lead. Im shocked that a bullet could traverse the opening without altering the bullets trajectory or causing baffle damage. No amount of scrubbing or solvent would even make a dent. On the internet I found some posts about a 50/50 mix of vinegar and peroxide. This should be used with caution as this solution can remove bluing and if there are areas of initial rust this can make it worse. Most importantly the black sludge that comes off of you comp is highly toxic lead acetate which is readily absorbed through the skin and gloves should be worn and the sludge should b properly disposed of. I soaked the comp end of the gun and every 15 minutes used a Qtip to remove the oxidized lead. It took four hours but I got every spec of lead out. My hard chrome finish was not harmed. Hope this helps. Edited September 28, 2015 by Doc10mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igolfat8 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Yep, White Vinegar / Peroxide 1:1 works great. I usually let it soak for a few days and the lead falls right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Yep, White Vinegar / Peroxide 1:1 works great. I usually let it soak for a few days and the lead falls right off. Its great for stainless steel but use caution with carbon steel barrels and comps. I usually allowed the barrel and comp to soak for 15 minutes or so and then thoroughly rinsed and oiled it down. Worked great at removing lead buildup. A few years back I had a hard chromed steel comp soaking when I had to leave in a hurry. Came back a week or so later to find that everywhere the hardchrome had thinned, the cleaning solution had ate away metal. One ruined comp. I still use Vinegar / Peroxide to clean out the lead, but I do so cautiously. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyMac Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Peracetic Acid (hydrogen peroxide + vinegar) can also pit aluminum and ruin anodized finishes... so be careful leaving leaving aluminum bits exposed too long or you could damage things. This is a pretty common trick in the suppressor world, but generally only reserved for stainless, titanium, and well protected carbon steel (nitrided, chromed, etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fan311 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Weapon Shield solvent. You will shoot everything out the next time after you spray it in and let it soak. It will also put a protective layer down for future. Call direct, 1-800-390-1535 and use the Don Stout 15% discount code. This is the exact same thing I do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choppe Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 I haven't bought into Froglube as a gun lubricant yet, but I have been putting it on my Grand Master comp. It seems to work wonders for that. I apply it every 1000 rounds or so. That combination with MG JHP leaves very little junk build up in the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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