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Removing .38 plated squib load.


flycaster

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Hello. I've loaded many thousands of 9mm and .45acp rounds, with nary a problem. But I've been tearing my hair our with my .38's. I use a Lee Classic loader, and I've had too many squibs with that set-up. After I resolve the following issue, I'm going to order a whole new powder set-up for the .38's.

I have a squib 158gr. Berry's plated round in my Smith 67. Sadly, not the first. Now, I've helped other shooters remove 9mm FMJ and lead squibbed bullets, with no problem. But I've worn out my arm pounding on the brass rod to try to get this d**n bullet out. One post I saw elsewhere said to heat the barrel. Another said to put the gun in the freezer. I'm at my wit's end here. Any suggestions are welcome.

Chuck

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BOTH : Oil and bigger hammer. :cheers:

Are you using adequate lighting, and looking into

each cartridge case to make sure there is powder

in the case before you load the bullet? Very Important. :cheers:

Edited by Hi-Power Jack
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I find it hard to see 3.4grains of BE in a .38 Special case. I'm not so sure that I could rig up a light that would work well. 9mm is easy, because the powder is so much closer to the case rim than in a .38. Since I've had zero issues with my other Lee set-ups for .45 and 9mm, I'm just going to buy a new powder loader. Unfortunately, now I can't trust the six boxes of .38's that are sitting around. But thanks all for your input. I'm off tomorrow to get some Kroil.

Chuck

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Take the cylinder and crane out of the gun so you reduce the opportunity to bend the assembly. I would put the gun in a vice and tap the squib rod with a hammer. Warm the barrel a bit with a heat gun, then give it a go.

++++ Take the cylinder and crane out before you start!!!!

You will need to whack it pretty hard to get it out, a lot harder than you probably might suspect. You shouldn't need a vice but it doesn't hurt to have one.

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Brass rod.

Wooden dowel and a hard stuck bullet equals a barrel full of splinters over a stuck bullet.

And penetrating oil and either a heavy hammer or a lighter one.

I have read both positions on hammer size.

One school says to use a heavy hammer with a lot of momentum to drive the bullet out with one good lick.

The other says light hits tap tap rap.

Each says the other will upset the bullet and make it harder to drive.

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"++++ Take the cylinder and crane out before you start!!!!"

Yup. I do that.

"You will need to whack it pretty hard to get it out, a lot harder than you probably might suspect. You shouldn't need a vice but it doesn't hurt to have one."

Unfortunately, this isn't my first in the Smith, so I know how hard it can be. I'm going to go the penetrating oil route, too.

Chuck

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"Each says the other will upset the bullet and make it harder to drive."

I don't care if I upset the bullet. It's already upset me a lot!

Just put some penetrating oil in. Tomorrow I'll see if it helps.

Chuck

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It worked! The penetrating oil was great. The bullet was only about 1 1/2 inches from the muzzle, but it tapped out with about 15 moderate blows. Thanks to all for your input. Now to toss my .38 powder dispenser, and get a new one.

Chuck

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