Southpaw Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 You can only load 300 rounds an hour with your 550? I thought it was supposed to be around 500 rounds an hour? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 You can only load 300 rounds an hour with your 550? I thought it was supposed to be around 500 rounds an hour? Only if you're a machine and paying minimal attention to everything going on on the press. Realistically, I think you should cut that [500] number roughly in half. 500/hr is a round every 7.2s...which may sound slow, but consider that in those 7.2s, you need to 1) look into station 2 to make sure the powder drop looks good 2) advance the shell plate 3) grab a case, put it in station 1, if loading .45, you might check the case head on the way to the press to make sure the primer size is correct 4) grab a bullet, put it on the case in station 3..if using plated or coated, take extra care to make sure its reasonably squarely seated so it doesn't get damaged on the way in 5) pull the handle down 6) pull the handle up 7) press the handle forward to prime (did that feel right?...if not, do you just press on or pull the case from station 1 to examine it?...it may need a bit more force to fully seat a proud primer) 8) repeat 100 times...oops...out of primers, gotta stop to load some more...how's the powder hopper look? Then there's also setup time. Some say it only takes a minute or two to do a caliber change...I think they must be on speed. Though for me, the most time consuming part of setup is usually powder bar calibration. i.e. dialing in exactly the number of grains I want for the load I'm doing. I keep thinking about getting the Uniquetek kit to supposedly make that easier. My first/only press is a 550, due to a combination of cost, simplicity, not wanting the extra bulk/noise of a case feeder, wanting to load pistol and rifle, etc. If money is no object, and you just want to make the most efficient use of your loading time, skip the smaller presses and get a 1050 If you're like most of us, it's a choice between the 550 and 650, and the deciding factor is usually how much you shoot. If you compete regularly, and need quantity, you probably want the 650 and a case feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handloader109 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I don't know:-) I received a Lee single stage kit almost 2 yrs ago. Learned about reloading and I made enough to get buy with. Ran across a 650xl that had never been used. Guy gave up trying to get powder. Love the press. I am loading 9mm and recently added 22TCM to the rounds loaded. I'm never in a hurry and could probably get by with the Lee, but the 650xl makes things easy. Changing the caliber is not that hard nor time consuming. Get a 650xl. Or a ss and learn first, I still use the Lee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michmalo Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I have loaded on a 550 w/o case feeder and a 650 w/case feeder. Both are awesome. Paying attention to the details I could load around 300 to 400 rounds an hour on the 550. I can load around 700 to 800 an hour on the 650. I have quick caliber change outs for each caliber which helps when setting up the press. Not sure there is much appreciable difference between changing out calibers between the two presses and IMO this is the time that you don't want to rush things but slow down. The 650 is a much nicer reloading experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks all for additional info. I was at Dillon today talking to them about the presses. I'm still undecided michmalo, you say there's not much time difference between changing calibers on the 550 and 650? I was asking them about that today, specifically between 9mm and .40 since that's what I shoot the most. They said the 550 only takes a few seconds to switch between those calibers, but the 650 takes half an hour... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michmalo Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks all for additional info. I was at Dillon today talking to them about the presses. I'm still undecided michmalo, you say there's not much time difference between changing calibers on the 550 and 650? I was asking them about that today, specifically between 9mm and .40 since that's what I shoot the most. They said the 550 only takes a few seconds to switch between those calibers, but the 650 takes half an hour... Hmmm. Not completely sure what they mean by seconds....see attached video I pulled from the web on a caliber conversion on a 550. https://youtu.be/iUHrWfN3JGI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks for the video. So it took 5 minutes in this video, how long would that take on a 650? Dillon was talking about 9mm to .40 which uses the same shell plate on the 550 and both SPP so you only have to replace the tool head. I think the ease of changing calibers on the 550 is one of the things making this decision harder for me. On a 550 whenever I want to load just a 100 or so of calibers I shoot less often like .38 or .380 that would be a pretty quick changeover. If it really takes 30 minutes on the 650 I'd probably just never shoot those calibers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firewood Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) Russell92, As you can see everyone has an opinion on presses. The truth of the matter is that the press is basically a tool that holds the die in place and allows the user to force the cartridge into the die. You can load fantastic ammo with a simple single stage C press that costs <$30.00. When considering a progressive press, the main difference between a 550 and 650 is: 1. The 550 is a 4 station press, the 650 is a 5 station press 2. The 550 is a manual indexing press, the 650 is auto indexing. This may mean nothing to you now but it might in the future. If you are loading pistol on a Dillion 550 press station #1 is decap/size/prime, station #2 is powder drop/mouth size, station #3 is bullet seating, station #4 is crimp. If you want to add either a bullet feeder or a powder check die, the 4 stations of the 550 are not enough. So, thinking ahead, if you are deciding on a progressive (of any make) spend the money, get a 5 station press and have the flexability down the road. Auto indexing means that the ram turns automatically when you pull the handle. The 550 you must rurn the shell plate yourself. For $150.00 extra, get the auto indexing feature. True, many people use the 550 and love it and it will make great ammo. For that matter, the $120.00 Lee Turret press makes great ammo. But if your going to spend the money for a Dillion, get the 650. I fought this battle with myself not long ago. After a lot of debate, I decided to get a 5 station auto indexing press. I ended up getting a non-Dillion but the 5 station auto indexing was the correct decision. So just do it! ON EDIT: As mentioned above, I decided to buy the Hornady LnL progressive. However, I purchased all new dies in the 3 calibers I load the most for my progressive (9mm, 45acp, 38 spl). Because I'm using a PTX case mouth expander (like what Dillion presses use), I decided to get Dillion 3 pc dies. The reason for this is because I don't need a case expansion die (the PTX does the expansion) and I want to seat the bullet and crimp with separate dies. If, as other posters say, if you use the lee factory crimp die it will to be in place of a regular crimp only die which I would recommend that you look into this further before making a decision. I currently use on my turret press the lee factory crimp die as a replacement for a regular crimp only die but it isn't as awsome as some make it to be. Just saying. Edited June 21, 2015 by firewood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michmalo Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 The attached link is an example on a 650. Will be two parts so about 15 min of video including working with the case feeder. These examples are more time intensive due to changing from a large caliber to small caliber without separate tool heads. I have complete tool heads set up for each caliber including powder check, and powder measure so my time to switch out same caliber with same primer size is pretty close to the time it would take on a 550. Depending on how you manage the case feeder can add some time to the swap out but I usually have a predetermined amount of brass I plan to load in a one setting and pull corresponding components to match. Based on the quantity you plan to load the 550 is no doubt a good solution. If you are splitting hares on this and have few extra bucks go with the 650. If you think you may continue with this hobby and increase your loading output go with the 650. https://youtu.be/bMobf61rF8A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtp Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Here's my list I've made up for when people ask this question...take a look through the additional tools list.. Less than ~500rds/month: Lee Classic Cast Turret (not value turret) or LCT kit is tough to beat overall. YMMV. $110 press, $200 kit. I'd be buying the press + my own scale and other components, but YMMV; the kit gets you started, if not ideally, relatively cheaply. 500-1k/month: Progressive >1k/month: Progressive + case feeder My opinion only, blah blah blah. If you have more time on your hands, adjust the range count accordingly. For me, I'd be OK loading on a turret 5-600/month, but not much more. YMMV. Dillon 650 or LnL AP, $567 or ~$400-$450, assuming .223 + 9mm. I would take either the 650 or LnL AP over the 4 station, manually indexed 550. Those owning 550s will come in to tell you otherwise shortly. The Dillon comes with one caliber minus dies ready to go, including one shellplate, toolhead and caliber specific pieces (locator buttons, casefeed body(drop tube), powder die + funnel, etc.). The LnL AP comes with 5 LnL bushings but no shellplate, but comes with both pistol and rifle powder measure drums and inserts. For your first caliber, you're ready to go on the Dillon once you add dies. For the LnL AP, you'll need a ~$30 shellplate and dies. Additional calibers: $50-$180 depending on choice + calibers Dillon requires caliber conversion kits or purchasing individual pieces (loading rifle is generally a good idea to have 2x toolheads per caliber, one for prep, and one for loading, so 3 total tool heads, 1x rifle prep, 1x rifle load, 1x pistol) If your caliber choices are .223 and 9mm, or a few other combinations, you may be able to use the same shellplate, locator buttons, casefeed body, leaving you to buy the casefeed plate (38.95), casefeed adapter (14.95), toolhead/powder die (~40) and the powder funnel (~15) for the second caliber conversion. ~$110 in this case, a bit more ($40 for shellplate + $30 for additional toolhead (for second rifle toolhead)) in other caliber combinations. Hornady LnL AP requires a ~$25-30 shellplate plus additional 2-4 LnL bushings at ~$4 each (if loading more than one caliber, just pick up a 10 pack for ~$40) Maybe consider a second PM or inserts. I use a dedicated Hornady PM for rifle, dedicated PM for pistol, then inserts or micrometer inserts for ultimate 'laziness' (haven't bought those yet, don't 'need' really, unless doing a lot of calibers, IMO) - $100 Dies for .223 and 9mm or other pistol - ~$100, Carbide dies for pistol (Lees are fine) + Factory crimp die, steel dies for rifle. Additional tools: OPTIONAL Add case feeder - $220 Dillon, $280 Hornady OPTIONAL small pistol and small rifle case feeder plates - Hornady and Dillon plates apparently interchange, Dillon gets $42 each but their feeder(collator) comes with one plate; can find Hornady plates for ~$30, sometimes less, so $40-$65 to cover small pistol + small rifle Dillon or Hornady. I've seen occasional Midway 'clearances' with the LnL plates for $25. Extra primer tubes, 4-5 ~$25 (small for .223 + 9mm) Primer tray - $5-$20 (I like the plastic square RCBS one for $5 because it fits the stupid big Federal primer trays, some of the round ones don't) OPTIONAL Roller handle for press, Dillon or Inline Fabrication(Dillon or LnL) $50-$75 OPTIONAL strong mount for either press, $50-$75 RCBS 505 scale (~$90) or GemPro 250 digital (~$120) or both. Can look on eBay for 505 or virtually any OHaus beam scale(must measure in grains, not grams) and get in for ~$50+ IDEAL: CTS motorized trimmer (~$325), Giraud (~$450 IIRC) PRETTY GOOD: WFT2/similar for $60-$70 - for trimming .223 brass after resize WORKS: various hand trimmers, from Lyman or RCBS down to Lee Zip trimmer Hand tools or trim mate pro + bits for chamfer/debur/uniformer, from $30-$140 Media tumbler - Dillon or Berrys, $50-$190. Berrys is relabeled for a few, runs ~50. Dillon has two sizes, CV750($145-~500 .38 or .45 capacity) or CV2001($190-~1300 .38 case capacity), the Berry's sits between the two; I've fit ~1k9mm in mine. Other options exist, same price range. A kit like this one is pretty good bang for the buck: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00038502024and includes the generic separator everyone sells. Walnut or cob media - pet store, agri-feed, etc. Add a cap of Nu-Finish car polish or similar (nothing with ammonia in it), and some cut up strips of used dryer sheets (or paper towels in a pinch) to increase polish, reduce dust, and keep your media lasting a bit longer/cleaner. OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Media Separator, $30-$75. You can go slightly cheaper at ~$30 for a generic Chinese separator that's re-branded for virtually everyone else, works well enough, but feels a bit flimsy. $50 for the Dillon CM500 (meant to accept full load from their smaller tumbler), or CM2000 for $75. Yes, you can use your wife's strainer or other methods. Nope, it just won't work as well as fast IMO as a separator. Short version - I'd buy the large Dillon doing it again. OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED FOR RIFLE: Hornady headspace comparator kit, $30 - rifle only. Use to measure brass fired through your specific rifle, then set your dies back a few thousands for sizing. Less working of brass vs using a generic case gage to set up sizing, but may lead to ammo that won't work in all of your guns w/out checking them all. 9mm and .223 gages, ~$50 calipers - $10 and up, Harbor Freight or Frankford Arsenal = good enough OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Larger sized akro-bins for output + hold bulk bullets - $20-$40 (can find individually or buy a case of them) OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Hornady LED light strip $15 - Inline fab sells 'super' light kits for $50+, or you can go eBay from China for $10. This one works fine for $15. Bullet puller, kinetic or collet $15-$30. Kinetic pullers work on most calibers and look like a translucent plastic hammer. Collet pullers use the press and can be a bit quicker, but need an insert per caliber Case lube - Even for pistol running carbide dies, I use a little bit of lube, as it smooths everything out nicely. A quick mist of One Shot aerosol into the 'ready to load' bin, load primer tubes, then brass is ready to go. I don't tumble the One Shot off, and one can can last 10k loads or more. For rifle, use Dillon lube or similar. Google 'homemade case lube' for the home-made version of DCL - basically ~12:1 99% alcohol to liquid lanolin, works well. MANDATORY One or more reloading books, e.g. ABCs of Reloading, + random second one, e.g. Hornady's 9th, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) Russell92 as someone else allready pointed out, you will need the consumables: powder, primers, bullets and cases. You don't need a reloading manual, all the manufacturers data is online. Get a shooting chrono instead. Dillion makes the best stuff, no reason to start with a single stage or turret. The 550 is the most versatile Dillon, rifle and pistol, and uses a linear primer system like the Square Deal. The 650 and 1050 use a rotary system, and both are generally more complicated. Heres the hop tip, since you live in Phoenix, you are smack in the middle of competitve shooting heaven. Ben Avery, Rio Solada, South Mountain, tons of USPSA/IDPA/3 gun. Get out to any of the matches, well even better, shoot the match, and ask about the 550 versus 650. Most, if not all the shooters run Dillons. And don't get hung up on rounds per hour, I load on a 550 and SD, making about 300 an hour, and load once a week. Many of my buddies run 1050s and 650s, and when they run, they run fast, but the are kinda like Open Division guns, finicky. So the competitive shooters will hook you up and set you up on your 550, they already know a lots of different loads. There is no faster way to get rolling than have an experienced shooter set you up. They will tell you what is important and what is not to worry about. And then you want to get a consistent load as quickly as possible and don't mess with it. After all, reloading is only an interim step to shooting, the only thing that matters is what happens after the beep. Edited June 21, 2015 by 9x45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowboy1629 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I have both a 550 and a 650. Ran the 550 about 20+ years and decided to get a 650 to run my high volume stuff on. The 550 is a great unit and easy to learn on. The 650 is a little more complicated but will put out a lot more ammo than the 550 in the same amount of time. Caliber conversions cost a little more with the 650 than the 550. Conversion time really isn't that much more with the 650 over the 550 once you have done it a few times. If you have no need to make thousands of rounds per month, don't want a bullet feeder or powder check than the 550 would be the press to go with. If you think you will want to increase your output or add accessories go with the 650. You could also purchase the 650 without the case feeder and be basically like a 550 with auto indexing plus an extra station for later expansion. If I had to live with a 550 I could do it no problem but my 650 with the bullet feeder is fantastic for me. You will have to decide what's best for you. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) Alright, y'all are slowly wearing me down and moving me towards the 650. One more question, for those of you with a 650, is it your only press? Or do most people with a 650 keep it dedicated to whatever caliber they shoot the most and use another press for other calibers they shoot less often? That was one thing causing me hesitation about having the 650 as my only press. https://youtu.be/bMobf61rF8A Thanks! That doesn't look as bad as some were making it sound. ... Thank you, lots of helpful info! Heres the hop tip, since you live in Phoenix, you are smack in the middle of competitve shooting heaven. Ben Avery, Rio Solada, South Mountain, tons of USPSA/IDPA/3 gun. Get out to any of the matches, well even better, shoot the match, and ask about the 550 versus 650. Most, if not all the shooters run Dillons. Oh I'm not new to USPSA, just new to reloading . I actually shot a match at Rio today...shot like crap, but did shoot the match . I've been asking everyone I see about 550 vs. 650. It seems everyone likes whatever they have and that's what they recommend... Only reason I didn't start reloading long ago is I just moved out here from the East coast. I previously didn't have the time or space available to get into reloading. Now that I do I want to start ASAP! And don't get hung up on rounds per hour, I load on a 550 and SD, making about 300 an hour, and load once a week. Many of my buddies run 1050s and 650s, and when they run, they run fast, but the are kinda like Open Division guns, finicky. So the competitive shooters will hook you up and set you up on your 550, they already know a lots of different loads. There is no faster way to get rolling than have an experienced shooter set you up. They will tell you what is important and what is not to worry about. And then you want to get a consistent load as quickly as possible and don't mess with it. After all, reloading is only an interim step to shooting, the only thing that matters is what happens after the beep. Why do you say don't get hung up on rounds per hour? That seems like the whole reason to get the 650 over the 550. And just how finicky is the 650? I hear the 550 is a much simpler press with less problems, but I don't know how often 650s have issues or jam up, etc. That's another reason I was initially leaning towards the 550, less potential problems for a new reloader. To demonstrate this point, at Dillon someone was showing me the 550 and 650 manuals and how the troubleshooting section of the 650 manual is a lot longer... ETA, your analogy of the 650 to an Open gun is concerning since I'm a Glock shooter and like that they just run and run and run... Edited June 21, 2015 by Russell92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDA Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 And just how finicky is the 650? I hear the 550 is a much simpler press with less problems, but I don't know how often 650s have issues or jam up, etc. That's another reason I was initially leaning towards the 550, less potential problems for a new reloader. To demonstrate this point, at Dillon someone was showing me the 550 and 650 manuals and how the troubleshooting section of the 650 manual is a lot longer... I'm new to reloading too. I bought a SDB from Brian and a few weeks later a friend told me about a 650 that was locally available. I bought it and within a couple of hours I had it unpacked, repaired, (broken indexing collar) set up and running. Been loading without any issues since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) Russel92 "Why do you say don't get hung up on rounds per hour?" Because you are typically only loading as many rounds as you need for the next match or two. So it takes me 1 hour to load 300 and you could do 300 in 30 minutes on a 650 or 15 minutes on a 1050. Unless you only have 15 minutes a week to get ready for the next match? And there is a reason not to load thousands of rounds well ahead of time. If anything goes wrong, the fast loaders quickly generate a huge amount of ammo that won't function. One our local guys cranked out over 1,200 rounds on his 650 only to find the powder charge was way too low because of a shred of paper from the jug cap seal lodged in the powder bar. My buddy who runs a 1050 with a bullet feeder spent 5 hours yesterday adjusting it, after his CZ would intermintely not feed rounds at the match, only to discover that it was Tula brass. He has now decided to hand sort all the brass. And his next order of brass will he hand sorted single head stamp, roll sized and processed. I inspect every single case at point of use for head stamp, signs of over pressure (flat primer 2x normal diameter, rings, bulges) and look inside the case also (broke a de-capper pin for the first time in 15 years because of a chunck of rubber). Both the 650 and 1050 are really nice, and you can buy whatever you want, of course. My experience is running an old 550 for over 30 years and a Square Deal for over 15 years (won as product). I have no reason to upgrade. The most important thing to me is that my reloads always go bang after the beep. Nothing ruins a good stage run quicker than ammo that doesn't work.... For a newbie starting reloading, I think you will find the 550 to be much simpler to understand and manage than the 650/1050, even if you get help with setting it up. I bet that between all the shooters at Rio, you could probably try out all the different presses from different shooters. You still have to decide which powder and what bullet type/weight.... That should keep you busy for another year. 9mm on the SD and .357SIG on the 550. Edited June 22, 2015 by 9x45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 One thing I picked up on looking through the advice here, dont rely on a lee factory crimp die as a chamber checker. I have a fcd on the last station every round goes through it and I still get rounds that dont pass the chamber check. certain brass will not size as well as others, even if it goes through a factory crimp die. Im not bashing the factory crimp die by any means but dont think because you have it every single round will be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtp Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 You don't need a reloading manual, all the manufacturers data is online. Disagree strongly - you don't need the load data necessarily, but the front half of most manuals, and the full text of ABCs of Reloading, is all about how, what, and why - nothing to do with load data. Someone really needs to have a clue what/why/how to do each step before they load their first round, ideally. ABCs is inexpensive - $20 or so? Why would you not learn what you're doing/trying to do with something like reloading? Even with a mentor, I'd appreciate someone I was mentoring taking the time to bring themselves up to speed via at least one solid reloading book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 You don't need a reloading manual, all the manufacturers data is online. Disagree strongly - you don't need the load data necessarily, but the front half of most manuals, and the full text of ABCs of Reloading, is all about how, what, and why - nothing to do with load data. Someone really needs to have a clue what/why/how to do each step before they load their first round, ideally. ABCs is inexpensive - $20 or so? Why would you not learn what you're doing/trying to do with something like reloading? Even with a mentor, I'd appreciate someone I was mentoring taking the time to bring themselves up to speed via at least one solid reloading book. Its been my experience that newbies get seriously more confused after reading manuals. Even though the manuals will explain things, newbies don't really understand to start with, then they over think everything, google up internet lore, and worry even more and ask endless questions. Example: The OAL is +/- .0002", I'm afraid to shoot those rounds. The crimp measures +/- .0005", will it still feed? Do I need to trim pistol cases? Do I need to clean the primer pocket? I weigh every charge and it is +/- .04. What's a grain? I don't see my bullet listed, what should I do? Do I need a $12,000 lab digital scale? Which powder should I use? What's burn rate mean? Is jacketed better than coated? Why use hollow points? Is heavier better? What's primer feel? Are nickel cases re-loadable? What is set back? Which dies are best? What is the absolute most accurate load? Can I use magnum primers instead of regular? What does ogive mean? What is co-efficient? How come heavier bullets use less powder? Can I measure pressure? Whats a chrono? It's enough to give someone a migraine headache. That's why I say it's best to have an experienced re-loader setup the press for you, and once setup, don't monkey with it! Reloading is still just a means to an end. The object is to make consistent loads that are reliable. Don't over think the whole reloading process, once your press is cranking then get out there and grip it and rip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomfturner Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) One of the things that has helped me a lot is to sort out my brass by head stamp, and to do this quickly you need 2 or 3 things. 1. a nice flat smooth board. 2. Ammo box (or tray) at least 1 size larger than the brass you're sorting ( I use a 45 tray for 9mm ... but a 40 tray will work). 3. a box with sides Steps: 1.)Dump all your "clean" unsorted brass into the box put the ammo tray in on top of it ... 2.)then lift and dump brass into the ammo tray 'til its full (you can use a 50 round carton insert or a 100 round box) . 3.) "flip" the brass out of the ammo box onto the board (use the board to set the brass onto [it will usually wind up butt-up]) 4.) visually inspect and sort brass off the board into appropriate containers ... this makes the sorting process a lot easier (and quicker) This process will keep a lot of the "junk" out of your brass, as the shell sorters miss some of the common differences (38 Super, 9mm, 380). Edited June 22, 2015 by tomfturner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetdocone Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 if i had to use a 550, i would just quit the sport. 500 rounds will take a long time on 550. This is not an expensive sport compared to other sports. Hunting, fishing and golfing can be just as expensive. I would either get 650, or 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 And there is a reason not to load thousands of rounds well ahead of time. If anything goes wrong, the fast loaders quickly generate a huge amount of ammo that won't function. That's a good point. I did previously have in my head that once I figure out a good load I would load in bulk. I'll have to strike a balance because I don't think I'm going to be the type of reloader who's loading just a few hundred rounds every Friday night before each match. I don't think I'll actually enjoy reloading like some people do; just as I don't like cleaning guns and am always shocked that some people actually enjoy it So I'm starting to come around and think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get the 650. I think I'd much rather start off and learn how to reload on the 550, but in a year from now I'm sure I'd rather have the 650... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Russell92 "I don't think I'll actually enjoy reloading like some people do; just as I don't like cleaning guns and am always shocked that some people actually enjoy" Ditto-Ditto. I hate cleaning guns, I really don't like reloading, the only thing that matters is after the beep. DVC, but mostly C... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) So I'm starting to order all the reloading equipment I'll need. I was just looking at tumblers, was thinking about getting this one: http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-n-Ez-Case-Tumbler/dp/B001MYGLJC/. I was looking at videos of it on youtube and it seems pretty loud. Are there ones that are quieter or is another method of cleaning brass quieter? I live in an apartment and don't want to annoy all the neighbors with the tumbler or have them asking questions about what the noise is. I had previously thought I'd want to do the tumbling out on my balcony to avoid getting lead in the air in my apartment, but seems like that'd be way too loud. Is it ok to do tumbling indoors? I guess it would be quieter if I put it on carpeting, could my neighbors still hear it through the walls though? Edited June 24, 2015 by Russell92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 I wouldn't do it indoors. Another issue you'll likely have beyond the noise is the dust cloud produced when you pour the media/brass out of the tumbler and again when you pour the media back into the tumbler. Perhaps wet tumbling indoors is your best option...and then put the brass out on the balcony to air dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Wet processing isn't exactly quiet either though.... In any event I'd suggest an insulating layer of some sort to keep transmission of vibrations into structure to a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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