Cleaning Lead

[roc1]

I load a lot of lead bullets in various calibers.I have used Copper Plated bullets but they are cleaner but cost just keeps going up plus shipping charges are a killer know .So I went back to lead.The only complaint is the lead removal no matter how hard the bullet or the lube you still have some leading.I have used the different solvents the lead away rag the Lewis lead remover etc.

Question does any one know of a better and easier method of removing lead?

I have shot jacket bullets behind the lead some say that just makes lead make a thin film in barrell but I think it works fair.

Just looking for the magic formula and the lazy mans way.Problem with jacket method they say not a good idea in my Glock 45acp or 9mm.

Thanks for the input

roc1

[Loves2Shoot]

No need to clean the barrel. Read this.go here

I've shot more round than I care to count and Wil's advise rings true to me, and he should know.

ps. If you are gong to shoot a Glock with lead, get the appriopriate barrel, lest you blow it up.

[mcoliver]

I, too, shoot lead exclusively. My barrel has only seen a patch soaked in FP-10 and wrapped in a nylon brush. A few scrubs (depending on how lazy I get) is all I do.

I noticed, lead builds up in my barrel only up to a point then stops. The longest I've run in between cleanings was 3K rounds (I think).

On the other hand, the chamber seems to need more attention probably due to the excess lube on the heads. I use a steel brush on the chamber to clean it.

[JFD]

A little Chore Boy (grocery store) wrapped around a bore brush seems to works as good or better than the Lewis Lead Remover.

[Jasonub]

i just run a wet patrch of hoppes 9. and let it settle for a few mins, then i push tissue through it about 5x. the bore is clean except for the first 4 mm where there is still some lead. it never bothers me.

[standles]

50% hydrogen peroxide + 50% White Vinegar

Let sit 5-10 mins

Push 5 or so patches through

Rinse in hot water

If you want follow up with a soak in water and baking soda to neutralize and vinegar remains.

Then light oil patch down bore followed by dry.

As for lead and glock bbls... While Glock says not to and it voids any warranty...

I have shot hard lead 21-14 BHN with no problems at IPSC and IDPA velocities.

[Loves2Shoot]

50% hydrogen peroxide + 50% White Vinegar

Let sit 5-10 mins

Push 5 or so patches through

Rinse in hot water

If you want follow up with a soak in water and baking soda to neutralize and vinegar remains.

Then light oil patch down bore followed by dry.

As for lead and glock bbls...  While Glock says not to and it voids any warranty...

I have shot hard lead 21-14 BHN with no problems at IPSC and IDPA velocities.

Warning, do a search on this. There can be quite adverse effects from using this method.

[tightloop]

Too many good cheap products on the market to make your own.....

[sargenv]

I've not seen anyone suggest or utilize an Outers Foul out system. When my GP 100 got all gunked up in the cylinder using soft lead for 38 loads, I'd plug the cylinder and use it to remove the lead from the cylinder as well as the barrel. It always got the cylinder and barrel completely clean after use. There was always some lead gunk plated on the rod. I have the Foul out II, but apparently the III is even more compact.

Vince

[Lee Watne]

Cut up a copper Chor-Boy pot scrubber and wrap a two by two inch piece on a worn out bore brush. A few passes and the lead is gone. That's the easiest method of all and I've tried them all. Anybody see any difference in lead fouling between chrome moly and stainless barrels?

[Ray_Z]

Have yet to read anyone recomend the boresnake. I cast my own bullets from wheel weights. I push a patch with hoppes on it then run the snake through 3 or 4 times. End of lead.

[standles]

Love2shoot:

I did some searches here on peroxide and lead removal as well as some general searches on the web. Found an overwhelming number reccomending the process and 2 that decried its ill effects.

The 2 bascially describes that the mixture creates formic acid and the use of that would lead to pitting and stress cracks in the bbl. Pitting I could see if you left it in overnight but I specifically said 10mins max and to neutralize the remains. As for the stress cracks I don't see that. If there were stress in the BBL already the rifiling process or heat/cool cycle would be just as likely to show the cracks. You would have to pit the hell out of it to reduce the integrity of the steel to the point of cracking.

If you have other references on the evil practice I would like to see them. I am always for busting a myth or finding out the evil side of the coin.

later, Steven

[Bronson7]

I have also been using the same method as Standles on my "stainless barrel". I've found that it works great. I would also like to know the adverse affects. I soak mine for 5 minutes and that does the trick. I also neutralize it in baking soda/water.

Bronson7

[Loves2Shoot]

Love2shoot:

I did some searches here on peroxide and lead removal as well as some general searches on the web. Found an overwhelming number reccomending the process and 2 that decried its ill effects.

The 2 bascially describes that the mixture creates formic acid and the use of that would lead to pitting and stress cracks in the bbl. Pitting I could see if you left it in overnight but I specifically said 10mins max and to neutralize the remains. As for the stress cracks I don't see that. If there were stress in the BBL already the rifiling process or heat/cool cycle would be just as likely to show the cracks. You would have to pit the hell out of it to reduce the integrity of the steel to the point of cracking.

If you have other references on the evil practice I would like to see them. I am always for busting a myth or finding out the evil side of the coin.

later, Steven

Sorry, never said it was evil. I said WARNING it can have adverse effects. Soak it too long and poof there goes your barrel I've seen some pretty cool pictures and one rifle barrel in person that convinced me be to be careful if you want to use this method.

I am totaly convinced by Mr Scheumann's claims that there is no need to clean the lead from your pistol barrel. I've shot enough rounds of lead to know that my experience is the same as his.

I merely stated warning because some people think if 5 minutes is good 5 hours (or 5 days) is better

[Stuck in C]

2nd or 3rd the motion of using copper gauze (Chore Boy or similar) wrapped around a worn bore brush so it fits tight in the bore-absolutely pushes the lead right out. Plus, no smelly solvents etc. Also, after long term use of MPro-7 Bore Gel to clean the bore, I just don't seem to get much leading anymore. This was a claim made on MPro-7's web site which I didn't believe, but it seems to work.

[jjanglin]

Guys:

Dont use those abrasive things in your barrels if you must clean the lead

out of your barrel use a lewis lead remover.

Go to www.schuemann.com and read his take and suggestions on

cleaning barrels= I dont use anything but a patch with oil on it

Ive seen several barrels ruined with chore boy,stainless steel wool,

caustic bore cleaners like hoppe's etc. will eventually eat your

barrell up if used to often and not cleaned out of your barrel.

Wil Schuemann is the most knowledgeable barrel maker out there

in this area!

Jim Anglin

Sailors Custom Pistols

[JD45]

Definitely don't use the stainless steel ones. Stick with the bronze or copper. The Chore-boy remedy works better than anything I have ever used (the Lewis tool did not work for me). I stopped worrying about lead in my .45 also. I can shoot it forever and the bore looks the same as after 50 rounds.

[Lee Watne]

Having used both the Lewis lead remover system and the copper Chore-boy it's really hard to see how the copper Chore-boy could be more abrasive.

[JFD]

I have to agree with Lee. How is copper Chore Boy going to screw up my stainless barrel more than the Lewis Lead Remover. It's also a heck of a lot easier to use, and for some reason seems more effective. Maybe I shoud be scared of shooting jacketed bullets too?

I've got around 80K rounds through my Kimber barrel with no damage yet from the Chore Boy, although I doubt if I make more than 5 passes every 2K rounds.

Now I have an Ed Brown barrel in my .38 Super ESP gun and the leading will definitely build up to the point of having no visible rifling if I don't clean it. Don't know why, but this barrel hates lead, although it shoots them very well until the leading gets too bad.

[dajarrel]

Personal observations on leading.

1. If you cast your own, make sure they are hard enough. Use wheelweights or add linotype to your mix to increase hardness.

2. When buying bullets for your gun ( or sizing them if you cast 'em), always go .001" over the size of your barrel. For example, if you are shooting bullets in a .40 cal barrel, use bullets sized to .401. Jacketed bullets for .40 are .400 and if you buy lead of the same diameter, you will introduce leading due to the gas cutting around the bullet because it doesn't completely fill the barrel grooves.

3. If you are going to shoot lead bullets at speeds greater than 1100-1200 fps, be sure to use gas checks. Gas checks are used to prevent the gas from blowing around a round, melting the bullet and depositing it on the barrel. Also, high velocity is notorious for mechanically stripping lead off of a bullet and depositing it on a barrel.

I played around a long time working up my lead mixture for my cast loads. It is 75% recovered lead from the range berms and 25% pure linotype from an old printers shop here in town.

IMHO the best way to remove leading is with the bronze scrubbing pad wrapped around an old bronze brush or by the Lewis' lead remover.

I recently used some of Hoppe's "Elite" cleaning products on a 625 revolver. It did a really good job of softening the lead build up, especially around the forcing cone area.

FWIW

dj