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Please offer you opinion. 40 S&W Reload


Ken_Bird

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Just finished converting my 1050 to 40 cal. here is the load\\

Once Fired .40 S&W Win

Win Powder 231 4.5

WIN SP

180 MG FT

OAL 1.125

Here is a photo of one of the first three out of the finished set up.

I see a line almost at the head of the brass and goes completely around it. Anyone like to share what caused that.

post-37223-0-11099300-1425920749_thumb.j

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I have just started a work up load for my .40

Bullet: 180gr lead non-coated flat nose

Powder: Titegroup; 10rds each/@ 4.3, 4.5, 4.7 grains (basically minimum to maximum. Might load 4.1 grains also to see if it cycles)

Cases: Once fired Mixed Brass

Primer: CCI small pistol

COAL: 1.125

I am using a small crimp on this round. I haven't shot them yet at the range but will this week most likely or the beginning of next week. I will chrono them and update this post when I get done. My goal here is to start working up a load for my IDPA shoots. If anyone has any help or input on this load I would like to hear feedback. Shooting these out of a springfield xd subcompact 40 that i like to shoot in the comps. Keeps the long slide guys honest!

~STXGunner

Great people talk about ideas,

average people talk about things,

small people talk about other people

~anonymous

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Looks normal, that's from the resizing as mentioned above. What does the crimp measure (neck diameter)? You should gauge them with the barrel or another trusted bullet gauge. Be careful, some bullet gauges are very tight and you'll get a ton of rejects when they really are fine and will shoot great.

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  • 1 month later...

May I ask how the "improper adjustment" will go away?

I'm newer at reloading, but to my knowledge. the resizing die gets bottomed out to the shell plate/holder and that's as far as it will go. I have a similar ring, although not quite as apparent. Just wanting to make sure I'm not overlooking something. I'm not lubing brass fyi, at least not yet.

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As above, the ring is where the brass stopped going into the sizing die. Looks like the die is adjusted properly as the "ring" looks equal around the brass (as far as one can see in the pic). Always do the "Plunk" test in your barrel, as very few shoot out of a case gauge, and the gauges can vary from your barrel specs. If you find a case gauge that matches the specs of your barrel then that is fine as they are faster than using the barrel,but, the barrel is the only thing to use to determine OAL of the loaded cartridge.

Lee also offers a push through set up and they all seem to work equally well.

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