RandyLahey

Personally, I prefer the Gen 4's for the mag release and the grip even w/out the smaller/larger back strap to me feels better, in stock form anyway. I haven't messed with stippling. I have a G35 gen4 and a G22 Gen3. The recoil spring in the Gen4 seems much beefier as well. However, if you are going to mod up the grip with stippling etc... then you can just as easily add a Gen4 mag release button while your goofing about and then the Gen differences to me practically vanish. Recoil springs are cheap and they don't seem to be an issue with earlier gens. Moving forward though I'll buy Gen4's just to keep things more similar in parts/spares. I myself was back and forth on G34/35 but I got a decent deal on a police trade like new G35 with night sights and for me even in day light, I pickup the sights a lot better vs the factory glock sights which to me are just atrocious. My plan was to get a 9mm conversion barrel which I did. Haven't shot it yet as tbh the g35 shooting reload 40 is about like shooting a smaller gun with hot factory 9. So since I reload, I just prefer the 40 almost as for whatever reason I tend to shoot it a bit more accurately(mental thing I'm sure). Both are great, but the 35 u can get a conversion barrel to go to 9mm. The G34 you can't convert up to a 40. That's what sold, and the good deal on the police trade with NS.

My Glock 35 Gen4 seems to have developed a problem. It has bred with itself and ordered a G22 Guns are funny that way. My M&P9 did the same and bred a M&P40. Damm guns

Loving BE-86 here as well. Will be stocking up on more when I run through my final 7lbs

I had lead issues with bbi until I opened the bell more and reduced my crimp. I pulled a few bullets and you could see shaving of the coating. Opening the bell was most of the issue.

So a month or two ago Xtreme had a 124gr FP plated special. I ordered 3k(6 boxes) and they showed up maybe a week later. Took two boxes out, loaded them, no issues. Went to get more out of the box to load, and low and behold the remaining 4 boxes were RN not FP bullets. My FS M&P9 is markedly more accurate with FP vs RN; so I emailed Xtreme and within 30 minutes had 2 emails AND a phone call asking me how I wanted to handle this. They gave me a couple of options. Ironically, that same day, they had another special so I ordered 2k more bullets. They sent me via email a return label to send those RN bullets back, and will send me replacements for the returns I'm sending back with the current order I just put in. Was a painless process. Stuff happens, I get it. What really matters to me is how vendors "make it right". Xtreme is good in my books. Just sharing if it matters to anyone

I ordered the Lonewolf from Midway. Will have to see how my reloads chamber, but may have to pay the $25 reaming fee if they don't chamber well. Loving the gun mostly. The seller's description was not really accurate, but functionally, the gun seems to function well. Fired one mag in the back woods tonight, but the mosquitos got me bad so I bailed on more testing. Crazy how much tamer the 40SW is in a longer gun vs my M&P40 full size(4.24" barrel). Seems to me when I go from one size pistol to the next, say compact to full size, or full size to 5+", it's almost like it shoots like one size smaller caliber.

I just ordered my first glock. A police trade gen4 G35 with night sights. I've been wanting a 5" pistol and was going to get another M&P, but I decided to try the glock as I've shot a friends G34 and liked it. I love my M&P's, but feel that each gun offers pluses and minuses, and I want to play with a glock for a bit . Good excuse to get another gun right?? My concern with the M&P 5" was in my experience, the 9mm M&P's are very fussy with loads, and I had to dial and dial a load in for that gun. The stock triggers suck and need upgrading, which can induce some dependability issues if everything isn't just so. Anyway, what barrel would you recommend for converting to 9mm. I shoot a fair amount of 40, but for plinking 9mm is cheaper to reload for. I'm somewhat concerned though that match barrels will give me more fits. My Full size M&P9 eats everything I've fed it. Knock on wood, I've never had a round fail to chamber in many thousands of rounds of reloads. I run a standard Lee carbide resizing die btw. I hear about people having to resort to undersize dies, or push through sizing. I'm too lazy to push through size, but I could buy an undersize die if it comes to that. I may eventually shoot some competition with this gun if I'm comfortable enough with it. Plan to have my friend work the trigger on this gun after I get it and verify function. He did a good job with his. Other than that, no other mods planned for now. Maybe some stippling down the road. My M&P's have Apex poly triggers and FSS jobs, which have spoiled me a bit. That said, other than the takeup on the stock glock trigger, the stock trigger is pretty dam good, at least his was after he polished his a bit. Definitely workable as opposed to that pos stock M&P trigger.

I submitted a ? to them re: disk w/out the set screws. Will see what they say. That said, I may be doing the $1,000 upgrade for my Lee powder measure. Getting a Dillon 650 setup

ok thx all. I guess I don't care as long as a "regular" type die like the Lee U die or the EGW die can "fix" the bulge, but I don't want to have to get into push through sizing .

Wondering what your experiences are with newer Gen3 or 4 glocks are with bulging brass? I'm considering glock 35 and would probably buy the 9mm barrel as well for it. Since I reload though, I'm concerned with bulging brass.

would guess you may need a new recoil spring. May not be allowing it to fully lock back on last round? Just a guess!

Some of you may have read my posts dealing with my other presses(LnL and LLM). My LnL back from Hornady is now indexing correctly and I can load 40SW on it very well. However, I just put the .223/5.56 dies back in it last night and I was having a TON of priming issues with the brass I had(processed brass from Fast&Friendly). He's saying it's due to the LnL not centering the primer well enough, and the brass he makes is rather tight tolerances. He offered to re run the brass to open it up more in the primer pockets, but I thought I'd use this as the excuse I've been looking for to get a 650XL setup. I'll start with 5.56 on this press, keep my LnL on 40SW for now, and my LLM for 9mm as setup. Eventually, I would like to sell one of my other presses, or at least decommission one of them from loading duties and probably use it as a universal de-primer prior to wet tumbling. I will be using my current Lee and Hornady dies so no dies needed. So for certain this is what I want. 650XL with the casefeeder setup for 5.56(I know it doesn't come with dies) Dillon 1200T and the steel 5.56 die I will probably also strongly consider getting the conversion parts to move to 9mm. Do I need to buy a caliber conversion and the quick change kit in order to have a complete tool head ready to swap over? I thought I recall seeing somewhere a whole kit for about $150-160 or so, but through Dillon, Graf's etc... I cannot find it now. . What I don't know is what other parts should I be considering as spares, caliber changes, nice to have etc.... I was thinking the bearing upgrade and washer parts I hear about to help smooth indexing? Some spent primer mods. I have a pm from someone I'll need to reference, just bouncing ideas off of you all here!

yeah my bunny fart 40 loads are so easy to shoot, I was shocked it was still as accurate as the more powerful loads. I'll keep shooting the stock barrel for now, and the mid power green dot loads are pretty accurate for what they are, and probably good enough. I have 9lbs of the BE-86 and 9lbs of power pistol I picked up(haven't used that yet), so I'll probably just use the Green dot for the 40 reloads for now, and the BE-86 for my 9, and maybe load up the power pistol for the highest power factor loads I want to test, and store some SHTF ammo with the BE-86 and power pistol. I thought about getting a "better barrel" for the 9mm, but at $150 I'm not sure the economics make sense for me on that move. I could put that towards another 9mm gun, or more gear, bullets etc... Shoot the 40 more etc... . Good to have options now. Again, thx for the advice on the 124gr FP .

I was able to get to the range Thursday night and show a few hundred of the 124's with each Green Dot and BE-86 loads. Testing pretty much confirms my prior post. The 124gr FP are the ticket for my gun. With green dot powder I am getting acceptable accuracy for plinking loads. Holding 2-3" groups at 15 yards offhand. The BE-86 loads are quite a bit snappier, but hold very tight groups, and I can make a ragged hole about 1.5 or so CM in diameter offhand shooting; save for the occasional flier that is my fault. I feel I've gotten the accuracy I was looking for. Maybe not quite as accurate as my 40, but 98-99% as good, which is fine with me . Thx to all who helped etc...

Just a follow up. was at the range today and put 200 rounds of the BE-86 and 300 rounds of the green dot 124 gr flat points down range. The Green dot loads were easy to shoot, and fair accuracy. Better than any other load I've run through the gun so far. I could hold 2-2.5 inch groups at 15 yards. The BE-86 loads though were money. Able to put a ragged hole in paper about 1-1.5 inches in diameter at 15 yards. This is about as accurate as my M&P40, but that gun is accurate with about any load you give it. My M&P9 definitely needs it's ammo tuned for sure. Glad it's getting the accuracy though . Really liking the BE-86.

Just an FYI. I'll also dig my chrono out this weekend if weather permits, but been tracking some accuracy issues in my M&P9. Heard that gun shoots best with duty/carry 124 hollow points. So I ordered some Xtreme plated 124 flat points to mimic that bullet profile/CG. Plinking loads with 4.5-4.7gr Green dot works well. 5.6 gr of BE-86 is making it snappy and more of a tack driver. I don't see a lot of posts on BE-86 so thought I'd share my experience. Finer grain powder, meters super great in my Lee auto disk. Seems to burn really clean, although sample size is pretty low(<100 rounds so far). I am getting near max(although book says 5.8-5.9) I'm starting to see the beginnings of primer flattening in a few of the spent shells. I could probably push it a bit more if I back off COL, but I'm pretty sure the chrono will show pretty good FPS and tbh I don't care what the fps are, as long as I get the accuracy I'm looking for. BTW further details: Brass: purchased once fired, run through a machine to "de glock" the possibility of bulges. Primer: Tula small pistol magnum Powder: 5.6gr BE-86 Bullet: Xtreme 124gr FP crimp: light, to remove the bell @ 3.775-3.778 COL: 1.069 but I did later back off to 1.075 once I found the beginnings of primer flattening in a few of the spent shells.

Flash74 and the rest of you . Thx for your help. Taking Flash74's encounters into mind, I ordered 3k of the Xtreme 124gr FP plated bullets. Got to shoot several over the past 2 days. With 4.5gr Green Dot, good accuracy, better than other bullets I've tried. With 5.6gr BE-86 those bullets are moving. I have to get my chrono out, but I'd say close or at duty ammo FPS. Becoming a tack driver like my 40 now . Problem is, that with mild loads, the 40 is just as easy if not easier to shoot lol, as these loads have a bit of snap with the BE-86. Nothing major or anything, but more than I'm used to with my plinking loads . Glad the accuracy is coming now. Doubt I'll ever get to the 40 level, but close is good enough. Plus, I know the gun is capable, and if I want to sacrifice some accuracy for plinking cheaper powder, that's a trade off I'll have to consider. The 124 FP's though seem to be the ticket . Guessing the hollow points would be slightly better, but the training area I go to doesn't allow hollow points on steel. Easier if I just stick with one type of bullet for each caliber for now.

40 factory loads would IMO be quite a handful to shoot competition with unless you are very well adapted to that gun. I know shooting my FS 40 M&P factory and hot reloads are quite a bit more delayed on my follow ups due to recoil and how fast I can bring the sights back on target. That said, I've not shot the compensated versions so maybe that could help out enough to keep you in contention. I do know my 40 is more accurate than my 9.

yeah My 9 isn't horrible accuracy, but when we shoot steel drills, some of the smaller discs are harder to hit with the 9 vs the 40. When I miss with the 9, sometimes I know it's me, and sometimes I wonder b/c the shot felt good. Could still be me, but when I shoot the 40 it's like a laser compared to the 9. I'll keep trying different bullets and loads. I don't think mine is that far off that I can't correct it somewhat. If not, maybe I'll look into an aftermarket barrel, but likely I'll just plink with it and use the 40

ok thx I may try out some of their bullets. Do you happen to know anything about their jacketed 147 hollow points. ARe they made just for target or do they expand and could be used for SHTF scenario or home defense? Curious!

ordered a few k of the 124 FN xtremes and will give them a go

couple of dumb questions for u. I got mine the other day. seems to work well and I didn't have to clean up too much flashing. I assumed though, mistakenly that I could fill my spare hornady tubes off of the vibra prime tube, but doing this turns the primers upside down. So in order to keep the correct orientation I need to go direct from the vibraprime into the press tube. Or am I overlooking something? I would like to get a setup down to where I could store 5-10 extra tubes full of primers ready to resupply the press quickly so I could pound out rounds fast in a reloading session. What would you recommend doing in that case? I tried taking the vibraprime tube out of the black plastic piece that plugs into the blue unit. But that sucker is in there tight. I'm not sure how much force the OP used to get his tube out? I'm wondering if going to the hardware store and just buying some correct size aluminum tubing, cutting to length and drilling a hole for the cotter pin, and capping the top with something for storage would be a good way out???

well first off I'm jealous of your presses and dilemma. But my 2 cents would be; if you have the $ and space to setup a 650 in addition to your 2 x 1050's, I would indeed go that route. I think you will find yourself using the 650 quite a bit, and I think your rates will still be more than respectable. I have to claim ignorance on all of the extra parts you need, but just wanted to say get the 650 so I can live vicariously through your press whoring (650xl and casefeeder setup coming soon myself).

well I may be altering my plan. I still want a 650, but I may do a casefeeder on the LnL as well, and keep those two setup for 9 and 40 each. I don't run a ton of 223 so I'll just probably use the LnL for that caliber and buy processed brass so I can skip out on the painful primer swaging(have a Dillon super swager, but still a PIA). Get a Dillon trimmer for the trimming and batch process the brass at that point when I need more. I'm coming around to the LnL, but it's been a trying courtship.

Flash74. It's funny you mention that about the stock barrel. I too have found my best groups were with 124's moving at 1050+ FPS. Those group pretty decent. The 147's @ 800-850 are ok, and better than 124's at mousefart loads. I'll try pushing some more 124 loads at those speeds and working with COL more a bit in that area. Plus I think my next order will include some 124 flat points, as that will most closely simulate Duty/Carry ammo I think. Thx for the reply and glad I'm not the only one, thought I may be going around the bend there lol.