Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

1911 build on the cheap


rbebeau

Recommended Posts

I'v been wanting to build a 1911 so I can learn more about the platform and how it all works together. What's the cheapest way to do it and what tools am I going to need?

I don't really care about the quality of the parts, this is more of a learning thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buy a cheap one, take apart and reassemble 20 or 30 times and you will know how it works.

After that you can start replacing parts. :roflol:

That's probably better advice that to try to build one. A 1911 has a LOT of fitting to do on almost every part. Getting them to work together is difficult.

On my first "build" I ended up cobbling together a gun that cost me $800 in parts (many of them of fairly low quality) just to end up with a gun that would jam at least once per magazine. I eventually ended up selling that gun off for $300 (with full disclosure as to its status). That was about 7 years ago and I think I could do better now, but I still don't think its a good idea for someone unfamiliar with the platform to try and build a 1911 if you're hoping to get anything resembling a nice gun in the end.

You can get one of the budget Turkish or Phillipines 1911's for not much more than just a frame costs. Get a GI model and try to start fitting some better parts one at a time.

Edited by MGMorden
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Steve is right. There are several specific tools and talents needed to build a gun from scratch. If you buy a cheap 1911, then you can buy the tools and parts needed as you go. While gaining the knowledge and experience, you will also know that your gun is fitted properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think for a first build you are better off with a 2011 frame because you dont have to stake the plunger tube or mess around with checkering the front strap. Both of these tasks require specific tools although some places offer their 1911 frames with these done. Also, look at the Kart EZ fit barrels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I disagree with the buy a cheap one recommendation. If you do, you'll always have a cheap gun, no matter what parts you put inside. If you decide to go this route rather than build from scratch, buy a good mid priced gun. If something like a Springfield Armory Range Officer, you get a good forged frame and slide and a very accurate, well fit barrel. You can buy one for between $700 and $750. It would make a great starting point.

To keep the price low while still providing a good frame, slide and barrel, SA uses a lot of MIM parts for the rest of the gun. That's fine, but they don't last as long. So if you want to upgrade these parts to learn how everything fits and works, you have existing parts to use as a model. Buy good parts and have at it.

When building from scratch, the hardest and most time consuming tasks are fitting the slide and frame, and fitting the barrel. These tasks are also the ones that require the most specialized tools and measuring devices. I've tried to fit these by "feel", but it doesn't work for me. I used to be a tool & die maker, and I am definitely the measure and fit kind of guy. So at a minimum you'll need a good micrometer, a depth gauge, height gauge, vernier calipers and feeler gauges. If you buy quality, that really adds up. If you start with a RO, everything you replace can be fitted using simple, inexpensive hand tools. you can get by without all the measuring tools, but an inexpensive vernier caliper will help a lot. You can buy an acceptable one for $25-35.

The beauty of the RO approach (IMO) is you start with a very good, accurate gun. You will still have all the original pieces, so you could always put them back in and sell the gun if you wanted to. As you replace pieces and learn to fit them, you are likely to ruin a few. That's part of the learning curve. At least they will be relatively inexpensive parts. BTW, you will care about the quality of the parts. You will have many fewer problems if you use good, machined from bar stock or billet parts. MIM parts are a PITA and will cause you grief. If you use the good parts you can easily turn your RO into the equivalent of a $1500 pistol and learn a lot in the process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input guys!

Some more info. I already own a colt in .38 Super, and have changed some parts on it (With some guidance from a friend). I also work in a machine shop so I am no stranger to filing-measuring-repeat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob Rodgers out of Idaho does a "roll your own" class. I have read nothing but great things about his class. If it's something you really want to do (build a 1911) look into his class. It's not cheap but you learn the correct way to hand fit everything, and leave with the knowledge to do it again. I am enrolled for one in May.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on attending a roll your own class with Bob Rodgers

A lot to learn and worth every penny. Besides learning smithing skills, you'll also get an excellent education in why the 1911 works the way it does, and what you should do if things stop working. You also end up with a pretty darn nice 1911.

I've attended two, and hope to be able to attend a third in a couple years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...