cpa5oh Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Anyone know who provides the service of TS frame reductions? Is CZ Custom the only shop/gunsmith that does this? (I can do a lot of stuff, but anything that requires a sort of artists touch I'm out on - I'd f it all up.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronicTwitch Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I know CZC does it - it'd be worth asking them for a quote then you can balance the pros and cons of doing it yourself or having another handy gunsmith do it. A guy in my local club did his and his wife's TS, but he didn't refinish them just shiny metal. So there's another cost to add on top of the filing down the checkering if you want it pretty again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 if you are up to it. Dremel, files, sandpaper. sore fingers, sore elbows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 If I did it it'd end up all screwed up - a scratched slide from installing sights myself is one thing...an assymetrical grip is another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind bat Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Stuart - Do you know if Gary Kimball (gkcustoms@comcast.net) set up to do TS reductions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Here is a home job on a TS. I have a couple pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 another shot of back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 front, and under trigger guard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I've done it to 2 TS's now. One I hard chromed the whole gun, frame and slide for about 250$, the other I have just ran skate tape on for the last few years. It took about 1/2 hour per gun with the correct tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Stuart - Do you know if Gary Kimball (gkcustoms@comcast.net) set up to do TS reductions? I am sure Gary would be more than able to do a reduction on the TS. He is primarily a custom 1911 builder, but I have seen him do some amazing rifle work and he built my original Springfield P9 open gun, welding up the beavertail, checkering front and rear and welding a magwell and building the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazeauRacing Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Nice work, ohsevenflhx! Looks perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdave24 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Agreed. Beautiful work. Can you let us know your technique? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieHunter Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Automatic Accuracy does it I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 1/4" Pneumatic Die Grinder, 1 inch x 1 inch, 1/4 inch spindle flap wheel. Smooth from beaver tail to bottom of frame in smooth even strokes. These flapper wheels can remove allot of material quickly, so not much pressure is required. Watch the checkering as you cut it down to make sure your removing material evenly. Easily blends everything in together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Dumb-ass question - once you do the frame reduction, do you HAVE TO have the gun coated/finished? I don't care how my stuff looks at all...grip tape where I need to have some traction and I'm happy. Rust is no good, though - that kinda goes beyond just looking ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) I didn't refinish one of the TS's that I did yet. It's been 2 years, and no rust. I use grip tape on the front and back. The other one I did, I had hard chromed at Metaloy. The flap wheel method leaves a pretty shiny finish once your done anyway. The pretty TS doesn't seem to shoot any faster than the unfinished TS. Edited January 12, 2015 by ohsevenflhx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 When I first did mine I shot it for a couple months before the chrome. I polished it and then put grip tape on it. There was no rust when I sent it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 This is a reduction I did a couple years ago, and haven't refinished yet. You can see some tool marks, but they will not show after they have been bead blasted or painted over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Yeah that'd be fine by me to have my gun looking like that! I'm going to order the flapper disks and I'll update once I've done it (probably this weekend...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Don't remove any metal down by the magwell. That area should remain the same size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Did the "frame reduction" and undercutting last night - I basically removed the checkering, undercut the trigger guard by the mag release, and removed some metal from up under the beavertail. I used 1" x 1" flap wheels (60 grit) as was suggested by another poster. I don't have air tools, so I bought an electric die grinder from Harbor Freight for $50. I went through basically 1.5 flap wheels. On the front strap, I made a mistake and used a grinding stone in the die grinder to remove the checkering - ended up with some gouging. The flap wheels take material off much more slowly and uniformly - I only went to the grinding stone because I was worried the three flap wheels weren't going to be enough (used one just on the backstrap.) Should've just used all flap wheels to the finish. It doesn't look great, and front to back the measurement with a dial caliper is still larger than on a Shadow (2.14x" vs. 2.04x".) Seems to feel pretty good - I'll shoot it tonight or tomorrow. Now to figure out how to cut the dust cover back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) You can always pickup some more flap wheels, and clean it up a little. I have the air compressor, die grinder, and flap wheels on hand all the time. I suppose it could get pricey to have to purchase all these items. The flap wheels do bring it to a nice finish. Just take your time and blend everything in together for a flowing finish. That way when you get the frame coated it will be smooth. Edited January 17, 2015 by ohsevenflhx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozzer Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Hello Is it possible to give me the measurement between the two points I'd need it for an undercut to take off too much material DVC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meatsauce Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Dropping mine off at my local smith next week. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I just want some taken off the back strap to get my thumb further forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axel1841 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I did mine with a 1" bench sander I still need to polish it and get it coated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now