rarick123 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Short version: What would make the slide lock in the open position, even when there are still rounds in the magazine? Long version: I recently bought a brand new, never fired gen 4 Glock 17 on Armslist. Before even taking it to the range, I started in on swapping parts out, installing the following: RYG Extended Slide Lock ILMG Sure Speed Extended Mag Release Ghost trigger connector (along with doing the 25 cent trigger job while I had it all apart) Lone Wolf threaded barrel Carver compensator some generic slide racker that replaces the rear slide plate Carver magwell Taylor Freelance +5 kits on all three mags Jager steel uncaptured guide rod Wolff springs (ordered 11, 12, 14, and 15 pound spring kits, just to be sure) Carver bushing to adapt the Gen 4 slide to a Gen 3 guide rod Topped it all off by stippling the frame myself. After doing all of that, I took it to the range. The first few rounds gave me plenty of headaches... failure to eject, stovepipes, and failure to return to battery were the most common. I had also installed the "non-Glock" version of the Speed Ledge on it, so I took that off and went back tonight. This time, the only thing I'm seeing is that after every single shot, the slide is locking in the open position, even when there are still rounds in the mag. My first thought was the recoil spring, so I went from the 11 to the 12. That didn't seem to matter, so I removed the comp next.... still no change. I switched back to the factory captured guide rod, no difference. Switched back to the factory barrel, no difference. Tried different mags, no difference. Removed the mag well, and still... no difference. Other than it being a single shot Pistol, it shoots like a dream ... any thoughts? I'm hoping it's something simple like "I bet you've got the leg of the spring on part X on the wrong side of part Y". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 I'm hoping it's something simple like "I bet you've got the leg of the spring on part X on the wrong side of part Y". My money is on the slide lock spring being in wrong. See it all the time on Glocks. There should be a lot of tension on the slide lock lever. If not it just flops around and keeps locking the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Slide lock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theKenny Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 I'm hoping it's something simple like "I bet you've got the leg of the spring on part X on the wrong side of part Y". My money is on the slide lock spring being in wrong. See it all the time on Glocks. There should be a lot of tension on the slide lock lever. If not it just flops around and keeps locking the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rarick123 Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks, everyone, for the incredibly quick responses! Kenny, in the pic you attached, is that how it SHOULD look, or is that what it looks like when it's in the wrong spot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 It should look like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theKenny Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Listen to mr. kinsler- he knows a thing or two about glocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rarick123 Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 I don't think I have a high enough post count to add pictures, but sure enough, if I look at mine from the same angle, mine is on TOP of the pin instead of under it. Now where's that Glock tool at when I need it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 (edited) Locking block pin goes in from right to left then put in the slide stop the put in the trigger pin You should be able to flip the slide lock with your thumb and it snap back down in place with...well with some spring in it hahaha. Tension pushing it down Edited December 4, 2014 by dskinsler83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rarick123 Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 Yep, I'm guessing when I put it back together, I put the trigger housing pin and slide release in before the locking block pin. Thanks again, everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 On glocks the locking block pin is the " first pin out and the first pin in". That way the slide stop spring is always under the locking block pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 (edited) Small (locking block) pin in first, then slide stop, then large (trigger) pin. The slide stop spring has to be under the small pin, otherwise, as you found out, it locks back on every round. Another thing you will learn from shooting competition is only change one thing at a time, especially trigger components (connector to trigger bar cruciform) and fitted barrels. Edited December 6, 2014 by 9x45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreGarciaTAT2 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Common problem, gets a lot of DIY'ers when they start out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Another thing you will learn from shooting competition is only change one thing at a time, especially trigger components (connector to trigger bar cruciform) and fitted barrels. Unless you know what you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 "Unless you know what you are doing." I would say that is the best advice I've seen. Try joining GSSF and attending armorers school or at least watching any of at least 50 YouTube videos on assembling a Glock. Next time the screwup could be dangerous to you or worse others. Blinging up a gun that has never been fired by you seems ridiculous to me. That's just my opinion. I'm sure there are others just as valid. I just always thought a little knowledge was useful, but I could be wrong. OK, I apologize for trying to be reasonable. To each his own as long as the damage is only to him or his property. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Another thing you will learn from shooting competition is only change one thing at a time, especially trigger components (connector to trigger bar cruciform) and fitted barrels. Unless you know what you are doing. I'm talking about newbies, not someone who has modified hundreds of Glocks. Notice how it's always 'my first Glock'.... and I changed everything, and it doesn't run now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I'm talking about newbies, not someone who has modified hundreds of Glocks. Notice how it's always 'my first Glock'.... and I changed everything, and it doesn't run now. 10-4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I'm talking about newbies, not someone who has modified hundreds of Glocks. Notice how it's always 'my first Glock'.... and I changed everything, and it doesn't run now. 10-4. Copy that 10-4 and send 10-7. I see it every weekend... out of service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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