rarick123

I just got a call from a coworker, so I jumped in the car and raced (literally) over to my local gun store... they had TiteGroup and HS-6 on the shelf. HAD being the operative word.

Given the options of what is out there now... what are people suggesting for 9mm major loads? The only thing close I can even come up with in my neck of the woods is maybe 700x. I'm new to the pistol reloading scene, so all I've got now in terms of powder is Varget for my .308, and a pound of Red Dot that I was going to use to fireform some brass. On a related note... how do the flake powders meter in something like a Hornady LNL powder dispenser? I've never tried anything that wasn't ball or rod powder in one. The only thing I've ever used flake powder for was a charge bar in a MEC Junior.

I guess the biggest problem is it seems like I'm having two different issues at the same time, and the thing that would "fix" one of them is the "cause" of the other one. If my spring is light enough to allow 100% ejection rates, then it's not strong enough to return the slide all the way forward after the shot. If it's strong enough to get the slide back into battery, then it's too strong to allow the slide to go back far enough to eject. That's what's making me think that, regardless of the brand, the "factory" ammo that I can get locally just doesn't have a high enough PF. As an example... one of the most common rounds I can get around here is the Lawman 115gr. According to Speer's site, that should be dead on 125 PF (1090 muzzle x 115 gr). I figure 125 isn't enough to overcome the dampening power of the compensator, at least when it comes to moving the slide back.

Anyone who's seen my other threads already knows, but I'm new to the whole pistol thing (beyond a carry piece in factory form). I built myself an "open" Gen 4 Glock 17 with the following parts (that matter, near as I can tell): Lone Wolf barrel Carver 3-port comp Jager uncaptured rod w/ Carver bushing for Gen 4 slides Wolff springs in 11, 12, 14, and 15 lb Everything else I've done to it shouldn't have any effect on the shot itself, so I'll leave that out for now. What I'm seeing... I've tried just about every type of ammo my LGS's carry. Cheap stuff, really cheap stuff, defense stuff, a few +P loads... and with all of them, I have varying degrees of success when it comes to the basic functionality of the gun. On the first shot, I always get a bang. What I don't always get is an ejected round, a second round chambered, a fully closed slide, etc. I've had stovepipes, failures to eject, failures to return to battery, slide locking open after one shot (mostly got that one figured out by putting the locking block pin back in BEFORE the slide release)... basically, I feel like I've "broken" this otherwise brand new gun, because I can't put N rounds in the mag, pull the trigger N times, and get N holes in the paper. What I'm looking for... reliable, predictable cycling and firing. I don't care if it's factory ammo or handloads. I've got a press and a set of dies. I hand load for my F-class .308 with decent results. At this point, I'm not shooting in any competitions beyond the occasional bowling pin shoot, so I'm not concerned with making a particular power factor. From reading whatever I can find, I'm thinking I might need to end up at (or near) major in order to get that reliability with a comp'ed gun, but even that I'm not 100% sure of. I'm willing to buy whatever bullet/powder/primer combo I need, and I'm willing to order factory ammo if my local guys can't get it. Basically, I just want to go to the range and not feel like I dumped a bunch of money into a trailer queen gun that looks pretty, but can't shoot even reliably, let alone accurately. What I've done... I've tried lighter springs, thinking maybe the slide would work better. I've tried heavier springs, thinking that would help the slide return to battery easier. Neither of those seem to matter much... or at least I haven't stumbled across the right combination of spring and ammo yet. I can remove the comp (still using the LW barrel), or switch back to the factory barrel and spring, and it seems to run just fine with the white box stuff I've tried. The thing is, I want to actually use the comp, since I've already bought it. Suggestions?

Yep, I'm guessing when I put it back together, I put the trigger housing pin and slide release in before the locking block pin. Thanks again, everyone!

I don't think I have a high enough post count to add pictures, but sure enough, if I look at mine from the same angle, mine is on TOP of the pin instead of under it. Now where's that Glock tool at when I need it?

Thanks, everyone, for the incredibly quick responses! Kenny, in the pic you attached, is that how it SHOULD look, or is that what it looks like when it's in the wrong spot?

Short version: What would make the slide lock in the open position, even when there are still rounds in the magazine? Long version: I recently bought a brand new, never fired gen 4 Glock 17 on Armslist. Before even taking it to the range, I started in on swapping parts out, installing the following: RYG Extended Slide Lock ILMG Sure Speed Extended Mag Release Ghost trigger connector (along with doing the 25 cent trigger job while I had it all apart) Lone Wolf threaded barrel Carver compensator some generic slide racker that replaces the rear slide plate Carver magwell Taylor Freelance +5 kits on all three mags Jager steel uncaptured guide rod Wolff springs (ordered 11, 12, 14, and 15 pound spring kits, just to be sure) Carver bushing to adapt the Gen 4 slide to a Gen 3 guide rod Topped it all off by stippling the frame myself. After doing all of that, I took it to the range. The first few rounds gave me plenty of headaches... failure to eject, stovepipes, and failure to return to battery were the most common. I had also installed the "non-Glock" version of the Speed Ledge on it, so I took that off and went back tonight. This time, the only thing I'm seeing is that after every single shot, the slide is locking in the open position, even when there are still rounds in the mag. My first thought was the recoil spring, so I went from the 11 to the 12. That didn't seem to matter, so I removed the comp next.... still no change. I switched back to the factory captured guide rod, no difference. Switched back to the factory barrel, no difference. Tried different mags, no difference. Removed the mag well, and still... no difference. Other than it being a single shot Pistol, it shoots like a dream ... any thoughts? I'm hoping it's something simple like "I bet you've got the leg of the spring on part X on the wrong side of part Y".

Well, like I said, I'm new to this... and sure enough, I ordered the comp/barrel setup but forgot to read the fine print about needing to also order the bushing and a new guide rod when using a Gen4. I'm glad I didn't start with the Loctite right away, as I got the thing on and then couldn't rack the slide. Guess I'll wait a few more days for another shipment from Bobby! On a related note... I'm going to end up with either a Carver or SJC mount on it as well, so from what I can tell, I should go ahead and remove the front sight before I glue on the comp, right?

I've tried searching, but I haven't had much luck... Just received my Carver compensator and LW barrel, and per the instructions, it says to use red Loctite, thread it on until tight, then back it off until it's timed properly. That's all well and good, but what happens when it's time to remove the barrel? Just heat it up, break the loctite, tap the threads, and repeat when it goes back in? I'm surprised there's not a set screw or something to keep it timed properly, or a crush washer a la AR's. I'm new to this whole competition pistol thing, so forgive me (and be gentle) if it seems obvious to everyone except me