dwarren9 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I've been using 9mm in my super for awhile now. I use my super decaper and sizer and 9 everything else been running great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Freeman Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 To get a good grab on brass I think you'll still have to go by headstamp for our standards. I'm figuring that out now for my 929. I have about 9,000 rounds through my 929 now and all of it reloads. The only brass that is a little loose in my HearthCo moon clips is RP and PMC. They stay in fine, but they just arent as solid as all the other flavors. I mostly use WCC and Fed. I use my moon with RP/PMC brass first and when I am done with a stage I hand the empties off to a production shooter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatting Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) yes and no I have just made a new cylender to my 686 in 9x19 Edited August 15, 2014 by hatting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 If you REALLY want to shoot 9mm in a revolver for IDPA look for a 547. I am not sure how the prices look anymore, but it is a 6 shot K-frame that you can shoot in SSR. That's right, SSR. It has a special extraction systems that grabs the groove of the case so moon clips are not required. Not sure what you would do for speed loaders though. If it is only for local matches and nothing sanctioned, think about the 929 or the 986 and shoot as not for score. You need IDPA legal gear, but you can use something with a longer barrel or extra shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 If you REALLY want to shoot 9mm in a revolver for IDPA look for a 547. I am not sure how the prices look anymore, but it is a 6 shot K-frame that you can shoot in SSR. That's right, SSR. It has a special extraction systems that grabs the groove of the case so moon clips are not required. Not sure what you would do for speed loaders though. I traded mine away. I couldn't find any speedloaders for sale, best I can tell they haven't been made in years. And more importantly for a competition gun, many of the specialized internal parts are not available. Mine was relegated to the role of safe queen, so now I have a 5" 625. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I bet it's fine for practice. The clips I'm going to use are .035, and they really do work well with all brands compared to the 38 special headache. I think you will see plenty more 929 users using range brass than was ever possible with 38s. Will still depend I think, what have you found so far? I just got my 929 in hand now and a prototype clip from George Martin as well as the factory clip. Remington brass is definitely sloppy as is PMC. Everything else I have, AMER, S&B, Win, Starline, FC, WINNT, Speer and a bunch of other random headstamps all clip up more or less the same. The thing that is very clear for me at least though is that my dillon sizing die is not going to cut it with completely random range brass. I bought like 70 lbs from a guy that is obvious USPSA range brass in that a large amount has obviously been shot at major. Even with the dillon die sizing all the way down to the shell plate a very large amount of this brass is slight bulged near the base and will not drop freely into the charge holes in spite of the fact that it will case gauge on a dillon case gauge and a Hundo case gauge perfectly. I ordered an EGW U die a few months back when josh posted on FB about issues he was seeing, but I haven't loaded any with it yet. Just looking at it though, the way the die is trimmed it will size considerably further down the case and should take care of the issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I just ordered starline, mostly because I really like how positive the feel of priming is, and how consistently it goes through the press. The clips I'm going with were made by a small shop and seem to work great with starline, and federal. The Winchester brass is actually the tightest. You have to grab it pretty hard to spin by hand, but it's inconsistent, some are really tight and some are sloppy. Remington appears to be the sloppiest. I'll get some dummies made up with all different head stamps and see how much of a difference the brass makes hitting a reload. My short colts are extremely tight in my Hearthcos, but the guy I shoot with has loose clips from TK, and neither of us hangs up on a reload. Has anyone had any issues with brass backing out of the tapered chamber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Freeman Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I bought like 70 lbs from a guy that is obvious USPSA range brass in that a large amount has obviously been shot at major. Even with the dillon die sizing all the way down to the shell plate a very large amount of this brass is slight bulged near the base and will not drop freely into the charge holes in spite of the fact that it will case gauge on a dillon case gauge and a Hundo case gauge perfectly. See if anyone in your area has a Case-Pro Roll Sizer. Run them through once and they will gauge even before they are loaded. If nobody in your area has one, send them my way and I will roll size them and send them back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Sean. I bet a standard lee or redding sizing die will take care of most of those cases. Loading while using the U die will be much slower. Tom is right about the roll sizing though. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I bought like 70 lbs from a guy that is obvious USPSA range brass in that a large amount has obviously been shot at major. Even with the dillon die sizing all the way down to the shell plate a very large amount of this brass is slight bulged near the base and will not drop freely into the charge holes in spite of the fact that it will case gauge on a dillon case gauge and a Hundo case gauge perfectly. See if anyone in your area has a Case-Pro Roll Sizer. Run them through once and they will gauge even before they are loaded. If nobody in your area has one, send them my way and I will roll size them and send them back. Tom, I don't know anyone in my area with a case pro. Your offer is very generous and I may take you up on it depending on how things go though. thanks! sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Sean. I bet a standard lee or redding sizing die will take care of most of those cases. Loading while using the U die will be much slower. Tom is right about the roll sizing though. DougC Doug, I've never loaded with a EGW U die before, is it that much harder on a 1050? sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 It is similar to using a lee factory crimp die. There is more resistance, which will be less smooth when you are running the machine. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeAZ Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 I've used nothing but Lee "U" dies in the 1st. stage for years in any pistol caliber I shoot........ Just LUBE the cases. I leave very little clearance on the shellplate. I shoot nothing but range brass. Dillon lube or One Shot is fine. Lee "U" die@ EGWguns/or/Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I have access to a 9mm chamber finish reamer, but I am curious is this is something I want to pursue now. Just out of curiosity, I dropped my 9mm reloads loose into the cylinder. I tried all 8 rounds in all 8 holes and they all fell in with the rim past the cylinder face. I clipped them up into 4 different style .38 super clips and they aren't even close to fitting. I think this falls into the too risky to try it for me. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimCunn Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 I've converted three Airweight 637-2 J-frames to 9mm, by reaming .357Mag titanium cylinders and cutting for moonclips. No need to rebarrel. 292 ft-lbs with 147gr ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmax Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 (edited) I used a finishing 9mm reamer on a spare 627 cylinder after I verified timing and chamber alignment. I was unable to get cast 158 gr cast to shoot well at 50 yards but 124 gr XTP were accurate. Switched to 38 super brass and with 158 gr cast my group size was on par with the XTP loads but testing stopped at 950 ft/sec as I was looking to make minor but major seemed to be easily within reach. Now I have one cylinder assembly in 9mm/38super and one in 357 mag and happy with both. Revolver Supply moon clips were used. Edited June 20, 2020 by jmax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 Pinnacle Custom took my 627 and originally cut the cylinder down to 38 short colt length and extended the forcing cone. I then ran across a 38 super cylinder and another 627 cylinder. I sent it all to Mark and asked him to fit the 38 super cylinder which he had to cut the forcing cone and also fit the new 627 cylinder. He had to cut the 627 cylinder to the same length as the 38 super and fit both with perfect timing on both. I am telling you this as he can do wonders and what you are talking about he can do. While you are at it have him make you a custom .356 barrel you won’t be disappointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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