soflarick Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) Picked one up on sale. Hand fed cases and bullets at first. Got things timed well. Other than the slower speed of no case feeder, things were going well. Doesn't fling powder like my friend's Dillon 550. I keep it clean, and use a little One Shot here and there. The powder measure is super accurate for pistol charges. Issues arose when I added the case feeder. After getting the feeder timing where I thought it was good, things went pretty well for a couple hundred rounds. Then the timing went haywire, cases started getting crushed, the plastic mount holding the primer rod developed a crack and broke off, a pawl chipped, cases were tipping. I started doing some research here and elsewhere, and these are what I've done so far: Used a lock washer between shellplate washer and bolt, so just snug keeps it tight Used a 12ga shell hull over the drop tube. Tried the PVC pipe thing, but the shell hull works better. Just use the crimped end to have a nice friction fit. Put some felt underneath the case feeding arm to push at the bottom of the case Added a small block of plastic on the left side of the case funnel to keep the 9mm cases from tumbling and jamming up the feeder. Put a 1/4" hole at the base of the case feeder tub to allow tiny bits of debris to fall out, instead of collecting in the tub. That works well. Those things helped, but there's still some tipping of the cases. I am going to contact Hornady to find out if they updated their shellplates to cure the issue, and see if they'll warranty the pawls and primer upper mount. Maybe they updated the case feeder funnel, too, but I just received it. The press was bought new in March. The shellplates were received at the same time as the press. Any other tips to offer? BTW, the Dillon primer tubes are great, and much cheaper than those from Hornady. Edited July 15, 2014 by soflarick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraj Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 When I broke that black piece on the priming rod Hornady sent me 2 new ones no charge. I don't know if you go the spare parts but it comes with a extra one out of the box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonman16 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Go over to thefirearmsforum.com go to AMMO & RELOADING, Look for the Hornady LNL-AP press Hints and Tricks" It's a complete video series on the press and well done by 76highboy. Look for the video on the Priming System, it shows you how to set it and check it. If it's off just slightly you apply added stress to the Black mounting piece and it breaks. Some people have added METAL BACKING PLATES. DON'T FORCE THINGS, look for causes and fix them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soflarick Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Definitely don't force things. I did put a grade 8 washer beneath the primer punch. Did make a perceived improvement. I did adjust the primer system as per those videos. Spoke with a Hornady tech, very helpful, and they're sending some replacement parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caffeinated Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 The issues you are describing sound like the machine in not timed correctly. Call customer support when you are in front of the machine and they should be able to help. The issue with the plastic piece that holds the primer cam wire is probably due to the primer seating ram didn't full retract on one stroke and as the handle was pulled down the primer slide hung up and broke the plastic piece. On mine, I'll have to occasionally loosen the primer ram assembly from the bottom side to get the ram to release. Apparently they have a new break away wire that I haven't used yet. The LNL likes to be clean. I keep a can of compressed air near by and give the priming area and 1st station of the shell plate a quick blast each time I add another tube of primers. That seems to help keep everything running smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leper65 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 There's good thread over on ar15.com that might help you with the case tipping: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/414607_How_to_tune_the_Hornady_Lock_N_Load_AP_progressive_press.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soflarick Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 That is a really interesting thread. I don't often check that website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63expert Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 There's good thread over on ar15.com that might help you with the case tipping: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/414607_How_to_tune_the_Hornady_Lock_N_Load_AP_progressive_press.html Thanks for the positive comment.. That is a really interesting thread. I don't often check that website. It is a shame that some of the info on the Interwebs is so scattered about. I have another idea about how to really "fix" the APs indexing, but it will take some time to get it figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDRJGB Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 mine developed a dimple right under the primer seater. when I use Fiocchi primers they sometimes don't seat all the way. I've been using pieces of foil w/ tape as a stop gap, but i'm wondering if others stay away from these type of primers or typically JB weld a dime under the primer seater. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soflarick Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Grade 8 washer with a bit of super glue to hold it beneath the seater. Just leaves a scratch on the washer. Can use a camshaft to valve adjustment shim. Basically, anything that is hard; harder than mild steel, at least IMHO. Less "flex", more leverage onto the seater. I checked the clearance between the shell holder and plate. Just for giggles, I pressed the shell plate onto the base at the bolt, and it seemed to cycle more smoothly. I think adjusting the clearance as per that link to around .003" is a good idea. Those same adjustment shims must be used on the Dillon, as they are also sold on the Dillon site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDRJGB Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Grade 8 washer with a bit of super glue to hold it beneath the seater. Just leaves a scratch on the washer. Can use a camshaft to valve adjustment shim. Basically, anything that is hard; harder than mild steel, at least IMHO. Less "flex", more leverage onto the seater. I checked the clearance between the shell holder and plate. Just for giggles, I pressed the shell plate onto the base at the bolt, and it seemed to cycle more smoothly. I think adjusting the clearance as per that link to around .003" is a good idea. Those same adjustment shims must be used on the Dillon, as they are also sold on the Dillon site. Great! Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoder Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 There's good thread over on ar15.com that might help you with the case tipping: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/414607_How_to_tune_the_Hornady_Lock_N_Load_AP_progressive_press.html This fixed my press. Before I found this I was ready to get rid of it. With the shims I have almost no case tip at all. 9mm was the worst. I also went to a Dillon resizing die which is beveled a little more than some other dies and is more forgiving. I finally don't regret buying the LNL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AusPPC Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 There's good thread over on ar15.com that might help you with the case tipping: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/414607_How_to_tune_the_Hornady_Lock_N_Load_AP_progressive_press.html This fixed my press. Before I found this I was ready to get rid of it. With the shims I have almost no case tip at all. 9mm was the worst. I also went to a Dillon resizing die which is beveled a little more than some other dies and is more forgiving. I finally don't regret buying the LNL. Yeah, the downside of the case retainer spring is that stations 1 and 5 cause the casing to cant a little. Dies with a good bevel on them (like Dillon) will auto-correct this problem. Dies with minimal bevel (like Lee) can cause binding or crushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) I have also switched to a mix of Dillon dies and Hornady dies to help keep cases when there aren't aligned perfectly. I use mostly Dillon dies but prefer the Hornady case expander and Hornady Taper Die. Edited December 8, 2014 by Butterpuc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowashooter Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Here is a video on pawl adjustment should help solve your timing issue. Beginning Reloading, Video 44, Pawl Adjustment, and setting the resize d...: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowashooter Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Also tipping cases can be helped by placing a shim in between the drive hib and subplate. These are the shims I used my press only required a .005 shim others require more. This mod puts the subplate closer tp the shell plate leaving less space for tipping. Steel Arbor Shim Assortment Kit, Matte, Full Hard, AISI 1008-1010 For Chemistry, 1'' ID, 1-1/2'' OD (Pack of 19) Small Parts http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C2GPJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hfv3ub0T8EV2K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satch Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Have use LNL AP for 6 years with all the problems described here. Grew tired of 'field engineering' the LNL AP. I only have so much time to devote to reloading and shooting given that I have a family and day job. Bought a Dillon 1050 last August and it solved all of my problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtp Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Have use LNL AP for 6 years with all the problems described here. Grew tired of 'field engineering' the LNL AP. I only have so much time to devote to reloading and shooting given that I have a family and day job. Bought a Dillon 1050 last August and it solved all of my problems. While it's great that your $1700 press outperforms your former $400 press, maybe you can drill into details as well as give rough info on level of mechanical aptitude? I'm not convinced that Hornady QA is what it should be, but with a few mostly 'fix once and done' issues (most of which outlined above), I haven't seen any recurring types of issues. I would however, be happy to have a Dillon case feeder over the Hornady, but even then, their latest model case feeder isn't bad, either. The Dillon forum is full of Dillon issues as well, so why not outline your issues in detail so maybe someone can benefit from them? Did you buy it new or used? Was it an ez-ject or older style? etc... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwmax2000 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Go over to thefirearmsforum.com go to AMMO & RELOADING, Look for the Hornady LNL-AP press Hints and Tricks" It's a complete video series on the press and well done by 76highboy. Look for the video on the Priming System, it shows you how to set it and check it. If it's off just slightly you apply added stress to the Black mounting piece and it breaks. Some people have added METAL BACKING PLATES. DON'T FORCE THINGS, look for causes and fix them. If you have or are going to get the Hornady AP press, you must watch Highboy's Videos on it. just search for "Bill Morgan" that is highboys Youtube name.. hit playlists cause he has over 500 videos. If you do what he says, your press issues are over.....Cmax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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