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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About AusPPC

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Service Pistol, Service Pistol Unrestricted, WA1500, IPSC, ISSF

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  1. I shoot PPC match and at 50 yards and to a lesser extent 25 yards a trigger stop is a definite aid if you want to shoot 10s. At closer range shooting faster? Doesn't matter.
  2. After my 3rd Power Custom extended pin broke I went back to the factory pin. Ignition reliability remained at 100%. Better yet, I can now dry fire a stage before starting, which helps my scores.
  3. To eliminate the problem of occassional primers not getting picked up by the slide, I used a large drill bit to gently chamfer the hole in the slide where each primer falls in (i.e. make it slightly funneled or beveled). Then ensure the cam wire is set such that the slider gets pushed all the way rearwards to allow primers to drop in from the vertical stack. Works utterly flawless now.
  4. I had the same problem in the LNL-AP loading .38 Special through a Lee sizing die. I changed the sizing die to a Dillon (it has a more rounded chamfer) and it has run perfectly for years. The Lee dies have a narrower and sharper funnel that doesn't tolerate the inherent tilt and wobble of a progressive machine as well.
  5. I had this problem in 9mm. I fixed it by adding brass shims between the case feeder post and the bracket that holds the feed tube. This allowed me to better align the feed tube with the pivot block such that only one case drops at a time.
  6. For PPC speed loaders are preferable, the timing isn't so fast to require lighting reloads, and most tend to run lighter actions (than you would say IPSC) which work better without the headspacing irregularities some times caused by moonclips.
  7. 2.0 grains of Trailboss with the bullet seated below the case mouth by 3mm. Very soft shooting (about 70 power factor), and holds x-ring at 50 yards.
  8. The 686 is quite popular for PPC in Australia, I had good results from mine even in almost stock form. The 148g HBWC isn't used much, the 100g SWC is far more popular.
  9. The factory S&W rears are made from stamped sheet metal, rounding off the corners. Anything else is an improvement.
  10. Below is the lever I was referring to in point #2. The side that needs to be stoned smooth is the left-hand side of the rounded leg on the far right - that is the edge that rubs and pivots on the alloy bushing.
  11. I had a factory STI sear give way in the middle of a match, allowing the hammer to follow. Turns out wear caused it to lose the correct angle in relation to the hammer hooks. A replacement sear fixed the problem.
  12. I've performed 3 mods. 1) I attached a custom electric vibrator to the base of the measure that actuates each cycle, makes running very light charges safe and consistent. 2) Over time the alloy bushing will wear (the steel actuator lever will dig a groove into the soft alloy bushing), and this will cause the disc to not fully extend, leading to erratic charges. To address this I removed the lever and stoned / polished it smooth so that the wear is reduced (the original lever is a pressed part and is quite sharp and jagged on the edges). 3) As per #2 above, I removed the very heavy coil spring that Lee provides, and replaced it with a much softer spring from the hardware store. This reduces the pressure between the lever and the bushing, creating less wear and a longer life. You need to experiment to find the right spring, too light and the measure will not reset. I like the Pro Auto-Disc, I have 2 of them (modified as above) on my LNL-AP's.
  13. Well I finished the action job on the 686-6 and I learned a few things. Toolguy, you were right Grinding a custom pin to fit inside the rebound spring (to act as a defacto trigger stop) will defeat the single action, BUT, the clearance is so close, and there is still enough flex in the action, such that pushing the hammer back extra firmly will get it to cock in single action. Then you have to dismantle the gun to decock it. As the gun will see a lot of regional tournaments, at some point one of the scrutineers will cock it back hard and inadvertently lock it up, so I had to abandon this idea. Instead, I ground and polished off the single action notch on the hammer, so that single action is now totally deactivated. To return it in the future all I'd need to do is buy a replacement hammer, which being MIM, means the existing fitted DA lever can be swapped right across. So I kind of achieved my goal of making the DA conversion semi-permanent. The wife is very happy with the action, very smooth, good reset and came in at 7.5 pounds. I'll let her shoot it a while before I tune it a bit further. Thanks for the guidance and I hope the above helps someone else.
  14. Depending on how light you were intending on tuning your 686's DA pull, you could run into reliability issues if you didn't bob the hammer anyway. The 686 is my wife's for PPC 1500 competition, but as it's only a transitional gun (she will eventually have a custom revolver built) I wanted to make the investment and modifications minimal. Otherwise a bobbed or Apex hammer is definitely preferable. Actually here in Australia there is some debate among the Masters and High-Masters regarding factory spur hammer versus the Apex. There are some smooth DA only setups, some with the spur and some without. I personally like the Apex which I have in my own PPC gun.
  15. I've always been intrigued by the rubber trigger stop, which as you say was popular with PPC setups and used as a 2nd stage. John Pride did this very thing!
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