Larry LeBeau Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 How well does long range [ 150 ] yard flashers show up with the weapon lite and can the RO. call / see the hits ???... Going to experiment some this year with setting up a nite down in AZ in august and am looking at this post for all the info my 3 brain cells can digest..... Thx Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 How well does long range [ 150 ] yard flashers show up with the weapon lite and can the RO. call / see the hits ???... Going to experiment some this year with setting up a nite down in AZ in august and am looking at this post for all the info my 3 brain cells can digest..... Thx Larry Depends on what Light you are using as the competitor. All the matches I have been at have put glow sticks on the flashers, so it is pretty easy for the RO to see. Plus the sparks are cool too. I've been to a few night matches that are pretty scary. Please talk to some guys who have set them up and run them who know what they are doing. Lights/glow sticks on every person, range clearing protocols, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry LeBeau Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 How well does long range [ 150 ] yard flashers show up with the weapon lite and can the RO. call / see the hits ???... Going to experiment some this year with setting up a nite down in AZ in august and am looking at this post for all the info my 3 brain cells can digest..... Thx Larry Depends on what Light you are using as the competitor. All the matches I have been at have put glow sticks on the flashers, so it is pretty easy for the RO to see. Plus the sparks are cool too. I've been to a few night matches that are pretty scary. Please talk to some guys who have set them up and run them who know what they are doing. Lights/glow sticks on every person, range clearing protocols, etc. we use RnR flashers, where would you put the glow sticks at on the flasher that would still show up and not get hit or splattered by the bullet, or put it slightely off away from it ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Larry, I would build a steel shield for the front flashcard. Drill a few small holes to wire the glow stick towards the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 First year I shot I did not use lasers on anything. I watched a lot of guys using them kick my butt. I still don't think a laser is a good pick on the shotgun for the match but for the rifle and pistol it's a lot quicker. Some of the pistol shots are a ways out there. The laser made it really easy to get hits last year. It helps...a lot. You should be able to illuminate everything that needs to be lit up with a 100 lumen light. There will be some targets a ways out but they will have illumination on them already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 What's a good distance to site in the laser on the rifle for? And the pistol? I have a second rail on the AR, that I can put on an extra flashlight if needed too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 First, you need to decide if you are doing crossed or parallel. I do a crossed at 100 yards, which is further than most recommend. Pistol I do 20 yards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviesterno Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I learned a bunch of stuff last year at the night match, which was an interesting experience because we got about 6" of rain in 40 minutes. Really messed everything up pretty solid. Anyway: Good head lamp: if you get one bright enough, it will light up pistol targets and your iron sights if you're not using a dot. If your pistol has a light and laser, and you forget to turn the laser on, it's easy to switch to irons and shoot like normal. Lasers: at distance, they suck. 50 yards away you have a lot more wiggle with your rifle than you think, and waiting for a beam to cross a 6" steel to break the shot was much harder than just using the scope you have on there. Also, make sure they are dialed in completely. They will be on a slightly different plane than your barrel or your scope, so trying to figure out hold overs on the clock is not a great idea. Shotguns, a light on both sides of it. was a huge benefit since we shot a rotating course off a Mule. Had it been one side and I guessed wrong at set up, I would have no idea when the targets were coming up. More light is almost always better Lower lumen lights seem to pierce fog/smoke/dust better than the super bright ones. Not sure if it's true, but it was my perception. This year I'm going with a more switchable set up than last time. Last time, I had lights pretty much locked in for each gun. this time, I'll have stuff that detaches, so I can put the right light on the gun for the stage. maybe it's close pistol and far rifle, or maybe not. lasers on the rifle/pistol for close stuff is amazing. as soon as it crosses brown, double. worked like a champ for me at least. Also, this year going with a red dot on the pistol and possibly aim point on an SBR. Because loud fireballs are fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 What's a good distance to site in the laser on the rifle for? And the pistol? I have a second rail on the AR, that I can put on an extra flashlight if needed too I sight my lasers in as far out as I can get them. Normally 50 yards on the handgun and whatever the rifle optic is zeroed at. On the handgun you may need a bit of lower light conditions to get that far out. The rifle is easy. I just put the dot in the center of the reticle, when it's pointed at something the right distance away. The closer you zero a laser the more you have to worry about what Mark is talking about. If you sight it in close, say 10 yards, the dot will be off at 20, and way off at 40 and further. Zero at 50 and you're within your offset all the way out to there and probably out to 100ish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 I'm going to have to find a time to go out late.. tried yesterday, couldn't see the green dot passed about 10 yards. Going to have to look up bullet drops for the pistol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Before you hit the range, just go in your backyard. Use a laser boresighter to get close on sighting in the lasers. Check the mounts, controls, etc. all dryfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 I did the initial rifle sighting in the basement... now I'll go the backyard and .. fence to fence should be closer to 50.. until I can get to the range at dusk or so The bore sight would be a nice addition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 How well does long range [ 150 ] yard flashers show up with the weapon lite and can the RO. call / see the hits ???... Going to experiment some this year with setting up a nite down in AZ in august and am looking at this post for all the info my 3 brain cells can digest..... Thx Larry We use MGM flash targets. Duct tape a couple 6" sticks to the front legs in line with where the plate is. On the back we use the bigger sticks taped to the flash card. You can shoot them without a light just bracketing the marker lights. The flash card stick shows up really well when it pops up. Easier to see than in the daylight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I prefer to shoot the "heated" MGM flashers with the FLIR though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry LeBeau Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) Kinda had the same idea with the RnR is to put the one chem lite on each side on a 1x2 about 2 or so feet in front or back as to help protect from splatter, don't know if it will be enough lite on the target being that far away, but just like a steer all I can do is try...... Keep the input comming Edited April 22, 2014 by Larry LeBeau Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 The light sticks are not to illuminate the target, just to give an indicator of where it is. At my first night match, I put my cross-hairs between the light sticks and hit steel on first shot. Think of them more as a bracket than actual light on the target. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry LeBeau Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 That's my thought process as well, still would like to know how an ro would call hits without getting somekind of visual on target. Using binocs at nite I think would just add to taking away from him the ability to watch the shooter, I think but could be wrong .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 If you put a glow stick on the flash card, it is easy. You see the hit (sparks) and hear the hit and see the flash card. It is actually an easier call at night than during the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Another option for illuminating long-range targets is traffic flares placed in front (light the target) or behind (silhouette the target). Each flare lasts about 30 minutes, and you can stack them nose-to-tail for several hours of uninterrupted illumination. Obviously make sure the flares are not going to start a fire, and locate them in defilade to avoid folks shooting them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted April 27, 2014 Author Share Posted April 27, 2014 Any suggestions for a good headlamp? Preferably one that has a red-light and white-light switch Not for shooting the stage, but to help with the reset and just getting gear ready Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Energizer brand works well. They sell them at WalMart, Target etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWil Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 I bought a Coleman max headlamp a year or so ago at WalMart for $20-$25. 3 levels of white, plus a red and a blue. I think it works great for resetting and I really like that it has a battery life meter. Did a quick google search to see if it is still available and found this review by someone from 2010. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/638837_Coleman_Max_LED_Headlamp_Review.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothandnail Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 I bought a Coleman max headlamp a year or so ago at WalMart for $20-$25. 3 levels of white, plus a red and a blue. I think it works great for resetting and I really like that it has a battery life meter. Did a quick google search to see if it is still available and found this review by someone from 2010. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/638837_Coleman_Max_LED_Headlamp_Review.html I have several of those, just used one yesterday(not at a night shoot unfortunately) very nice light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRider Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Any suggestions for a good headlamp? Preferably one that has a red-light and white-light switch Not for shooting the stage, but to help with the reset and just getting gear ready Coast/LED Lenser makes a good headlamp. It does not have the red filter that you are looking for, but the power is adjustable, they are fairly powerful and durable and they run off of AAA batteries. We use them on our hard hats at work (I work in a steel mill). Hurley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Thanks... I had no idea how many of these things they were.. I'll have to go down to REI and see them in person Best news.. considering all the equipment, this is probably the cheapest thing I need I could not believe the 'full dark' gear some of the people used. I'd used a Starlight scope back in the 70s.. these new goggles were amazing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now