Red Ryder Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I followed this thread ( http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187821 ) about getting all the springs right to reduce the trigger pull of my G34. So Far I have a Zev 3.5 connector, Zev competition spring kit, Zev stainless steel lightened striker with a Wolff 4.5 lb striker spring, Trigger pull is VERY nice and crisp. I tried to leave the stock striker safety spring in place but I ran into a problem. Upon DRY fire, if I held the trigger in after pulling it, the gun fired again upon a slight release of the trigger without a reset. I am guessing this is a problem? When I put the reduced power striker safety spring back in, the trigger was back to normal, requiring a reset and another pull to the make the gun fire again. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Striker being stuck somewhere and some sear engagement issues arising somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I followed this thread ( http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187821 ) about getting all the springs right to reduce the trigger pull of my G34. So Far I have a Zev 3.5 connector, Zev competition spring kit, Zev stainless steel lightened striker with a Wolff 4.5 lb striker spring, Trigger pull is VERY nice and crisp. I tried to leave the stock striker safety spring in place but I ran into a problem. Upon DRY fire, if I held the trigger in after pulling it, the gun fired again upon a slight release of the trigger without a reset. Do you mean you pulled the trigger (held it back) then cycled the slide and heard it fire again as you released the trigger slightly? The slide would have to be cycled to make another firing possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 He's describing a potential doubling or auto fire. The drop leg of the striker does not have enough engagement of the cruciform kick up or sear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) He's describing a potential doubling or auto fire. The drop leg of the striker does not have enough engagement of the cruciform kick up or searThat's what I thought but wanted to clarify. The #1 thing I do not like about the Glock design is that it can very easily double or multiple fire if the trigger is "worked". The slide returns to battery with the trigger to the rear and the trigger bar "up" so the bump has the striker safety plunger in the UP (fire) position. If the striker tab can slip off the trigger bar hook (some call a sear) when the slide impacts the frame, you have an automatic weapon. Every other major design (Beretta, SIG, SW, Browning HP, HK, SA XD) uses a pivoting lever safety design so that when it fires and the slide moves out of battery, the lifting plunger is released and the slide returns to battery with the FP safety in the SAFE position. The trigger must be fully released and repulled to lift the firing pin block out of the way. There's a reason EVERYBODY uses that design. It makes multiple fire events almost impossible. Edited January 25, 2014 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I would start putting back the oem parts one by one, when the problem goes away you have found the solution. I would start with the striker. You probably do not have the 1/3 engagement. If you have the orange slide cover plate you can check the amount of contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 He's describing a potential doubling or auto fire. The drop leg of the striker does not have enough engagement of the cruciform kick up or sear The GW striker leg should be longer than OEM but I would check it as d83 suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Will also mention for you to check to make sure the connector isn't causeing the trigger bar to bind. When you hold the trigger pad back use your left hand and turn the firearm so you can see the extractor and ejection port now using your right hand slide the slide back and while listening for the snap of the trigger bar reseting look at the area between the slide and frame where the slide rides the rails. You should be able to see the bar snap up and see the shiny top edge of the bar if it isn't being allowed to snap up anf you are using a new connector (which I have gotten more than a few out of spec from ZEV in the past) and if you are using an OT stop in the housing then the bar is not getting enough travel in the drop safety slot to pop up and engage the striker drop leg sufficiently. As J said the drop leg on the V4 striker is a few thous longer so something is wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Ryder Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I followed this thread ( http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187821 ) about getting all the springs right to reduce the trigger pull of my G34. So Far I have a Zev 3.5 connector, Zev competition spring kit, Zev stainless steel lightened striker with a Wolff 4.5 lb striker spring, Trigger pull is VERY nice and crisp. I tried to leave the stock striker safety spring in place but I ran into a problem. Upon DRY fire, if I held the trigger in after pulling it, the gun fired again upon a slight release of the trigger without a reset. Do you mean you pulled the trigger (held it back) then cycled the slide and heard it fire again as you released the trigger slightly? The slide would have to be cycled to make another firing possible. Yes Sir. That is exactly what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I followed this thread ( http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187821 ) about getting all the springs right to reduce the trigger pull of my G34. So Far I have a Zev 3.5 connector, Zev competition spring kit, Zev stainless steel lightened striker with a Wolff 4.5 lb striker spring, Trigger pull is VERY nice and crisp. I tried to leave the stock striker safety spring in place but I ran into a problem. Upon DRY fire, if I held the trigger in after pulling it, the gun fired again upon a slight release of the trigger without a reset. Do you mean you pulled the trigger (held it back) then cycled the slide and heard it fire again as you released the trigger slightly? The slide would have to be cycled to make another firing possible. Yes Sir. That is exactly what happened. Then, as stated above, the sear tab on the trigger bar is not engaging enough of the striker tab to hold it securely for any of he reasons listed above. Make sure the trigger bar is popping up as the slide pulls out of battery. If this is not happening, that will cause the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Ryder Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Would anyone like to share EXACTLY what they did to reduced the trigger pull without affecting reliability or making their gun burst fire or go auto? Please include all springs and connector weight. I think a crisp 3-3.5 pound trigger on a competition production division Glock 34 is optimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swatcop Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I have a G35. It has a reduced power firing pin spring, extra power trigger spring, extended striker/firing pin, and glock minus connector. All springs are zev tech. Its about 2.5 or so. The firing pin safety and spring stock. The only issue I have ever had with this setup- Gun started doubling during a USPSA match. Upon dis-assembly I found the firing pin safety spring had turned sideways not allowing the firing pin safety to return to position therefore allowing the firing pin to flow back and forth. I believe that this error was self induced during reassembly the night before. Stopped, Put it together right. Before then and since then, thousands of rounds problem free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 A good habit is holding the firing pin safety upside down by the spring and shaking before assembly to insure the spring is seated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G17 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I have a G35. It has a reduced power firing pin spring, extra power trigger spring, extended striker/firing pin, and glock minus connector. All springs are zev tech. Its about 2.5 or so. The firing pin safety and spring stock. The only issue I have ever had with this setup- Gun started doubling during a USPSA match. Upon dis-assembly I found the firing pin safety spring had turned sideways not allowing the firing pin safety to return to position therefore allowing the firing pin to flow back and forth. I believe that this error was self induced during reassembly the night before. Stopped, Put it together right. Before then and since then, thousands of rounds problem free. That's weird. I'v done a few range sessions without the fire pin safety in the gun at all. It's technically one of those parts (like the trigger safety tab) that is not needed to make the gun function. Although, YES it's certainly good to have it obviously but maybe there was another reason you're gun doubled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Exactly that had nothing to do with his doubling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G17 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Would anyone like to share EXACTLY what they did to reduced the trigger pull without affecting reliability or making their gun burst fire or go auto? Please include all springs and connector weight. I think a crisp 3-3.5 pound trigger on a competition production division Glock 34 is optimal. 4lb striker spring (these are sometimes marketed differently, although it's the lightest one i'v found available) 6lb Trigger spring Zev Titanium plunger/reduced plunger spring Jager Striker Zev Fulcrum trigger bar Zev V4 connector I stoned and repolished the striker/trig bar/connector I guess i must be lucky or something, i'v experimented soo much with the glock internals on many different glocks at one point or another. Never had the gun double or go full auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Then you have not experimented ENOUGH Bahahahahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vluc Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Would anyone like to share EXACTLY what they did to reduced the trigger pull without affecting reliability or making their gun burst fire or go auto? Please include all springs and connector weight. I think a crisp 3-3.5 pound trigger on a competition production division Glock 34 is optimal. Rob, just keep in mind the tolerances or lack thereof that Glocks have, making each pistol slightly unique. On the three G34's I have, I can swap all of the internals out of my main competition pistol, move them into another one, with the only difference being the slide and the frame, and the feel and break is completely different. Put them back in my main gun and it is right as rain again. I can go through every internal part between all of them and can't identify the one thing that gives this gun or that gun its "feel". Good luck on your quest young padawan. I see we are going to have an interesting season.... Edited January 26, 2014 by vluc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I heard of a new company that had a fully adjustable Production Legal kit that is 2.5-3lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Pre and over travel user adjustable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G17 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Pre and over travel user adjustable Is it out yet? Any links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G17 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Then you have not experimented ENOUGH Bahahahahaha Maybe i just know what i'm doing... most likely not. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prattj50 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I believe the trigger kit he is talking about is made by Dk Custom At www.glockcustomtriggers.com It is the best glock trigger I have ever owned and I have tried the top brands. It's the only trigger i will run in my matches run in my matches. If you buy it you will not be disappointed. Jason Pratt IDPA: A45403 USPSA: A78020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewilson224 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) I am running one of the DK triggers like my buddy Jason "P-Snizzle" "Peckerhead "Pratt. I have been shooting 1911's in IDPA and USPSA and recently made the transition to a G35 (gen 4) to be more competitive in LIMITED and to shoot PRODUCTION this year. The Glock trigger as you all know in its stock configuration feels like...... well poop IMO. I am used to the crisp breaking, nice trigger that I have in my 1911's with a Cylinder and Slide kit in it that breaks right around 3.25-.3.5 lbs. The DK trigger kit is as close to my 1911's as it can possibly in a production type gun like a Glock. I didn't think it could be done, but I was proven wrong. I have not had a single issue yet and have shot a couple of matches with it with a few live fire practice sessions and a lot of dry fire. I am more than impressed with it thus far. I also added a Jager guide rod and one of the Zev red (14lb.) recoil spring with the reducing ring. (Must get the reducing ring if you are running a gen 4 because of the different design on the front of the pistol). This has also had a significant on splits over the Glock stock recoil spring assembly and has made the pistol to have a really nice recoil that returns on target very nicely. IMO, you will not go wrong with this trigger kit. That is my 2cents. Be safe guys and girls.EW Edited January 26, 2014 by Ewilson224 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I heard of a new company that had a fully adjustable Production Legal kit that is 2.5-3lbs Where are they located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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