Bob Hostetter Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 G17, Bomar rear sight, .110 front sight, Bar Sto barrel, G21 mag release button, and one of our trigger jobs. By the way on our trigger jobs we can eliminate as much take up as you want without disabling the safeties. We also eliminate the overtravel. Our triggers are very close in feel to the 1911, or at least as close as you can get with plastic parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Any chance we could also get the setup for a Limited Glock? Say a G22? I've been checking out the threads and nowhere have I found a straight-up parts/mods list like you guys are providing here. It would keep me from bugging Flex via e-mail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Any chance we could also get the setup for a Limited Glock? Say a G22? I've been checking out the threads and nowhere have I found a straight-up parts/mods list like you guys are providing here. It would keep me from bugging Flex via e-mail. O.K., I admit it --- I'm slightly odd in that my limited gun is another G-34. That's right --- I chose to shoot minor. Mods could be applied to a 22 or a 35 and are as follows: Heinie Streight Eight Night Sights because I also use this gun in IDPA (w/ minor mods) and the Heinie's gave me the sight picture closest to the Bo-Mars on all my other guns. THE Accessories Tungsten Rod and ISMI 13lb. spring with three coils clipped. EricW's TRU-Grit grip tape --- the best grip mod ever! Lightning Strike Striker Safety Plunger and Spring. Wolff Reduced Power Striker Spring. About an hour of polish time. I'm sure I could get a lighter trigger pull, but this one's smooth. THE Accessories Brass Magwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 By the way on our trigger jobs we can eliminate as much take up as you want without disabling the safeties. I've heard claims like this before but I still haven't seen such a trigger job with my own eyes. In every case at least the drop safety was inactivated when a lot of the take-up was removed. Can you explain at least conceptually how your outfit accomplishes this and how you test that none of the three safeties listed are affected? Inquiring minds want to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 Nik Habicht Thanks for the reply. I saw flex mention a G20 (if that's the 10mm - I'm still new to glocks) with a .40 barrel is a good option too. I've got some surfing to do, but if the 20 has a bigger grip, and I need a new barrel anyway, that may be the best choice for me. It also allows me to fool myself into thinking I'm buying another barrel to get a 2nd caliber, not because somebody designed a barrel that won't shoot lead bullets. I've got to get current on the glock. Right now I'm going to check simple things like will a G22 barrel fit a G20 slide and are the mags different (with the G20 mags being harder to find or something else negative). Flex may get that e-mail after all. I can't agree more about Eric's trugrips. No doubt that will be the first thing I order. Without them, I don't know if I'd even consider a glock at all. I do know I'm starting to get kind of fired up over the thought of playing with a glock. Now, before I get a bad reputation, I'm going to drop out of this non-Limited thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 JFD, Glockmeister.com is pretty much THE reference source for what Glock parts wil interchange together. Highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 Thanks for the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 I am not an m but am working on it .my curent clas is A l-10 My wepon of choice started life as a 35. There ends the resemblence. I scraped the top end and slid on a caspian 24 with a fit kkm barrel. sights thanks to dave dawson custom dovetailed unit ..090 thick with .060 fiber .250 tall caspian rear bomar clone. this is an awsome sight picture. internals LS triger highly modified with 1911 type takeup reset. LS plunger with reduced power spring. LS ti striker with reduced power spring 3.5 conector "masaged" triger is 2.5 pounds smouth and crisp with no take up and little over travel At the 2004 glock anual in conyers ga Bob Carver and Dale Rhea comented That the triger was "crisp" recoil spring and guide rod thanks to LS steel unit. external mods include Dawson Ice mag well grafted on custom created mag button Hand stippled frame with undercut trigergaurd. Althought I am an avid open Glock shooter this has been my winningest gun in my battery. it is so easy to shoot and so light recoiling I shoot it much like an open gun.In feb 04 I got a C card in L10 by july I shot the Ga state champion ship finishing second overall Taking 1st A and Ga state championship.(section by laws state that a champion must be crowned fro the section) I credit this success to the Gun . The easiest gun That I have to shoot . Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hostetter Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Vincent, Its actually pretty easy, we recontour the tab that depresses the striker block. We also recontour the trigger face safety lever to compensate for the change in location of the trigger. How to test it? Take a rear slide cover and drill a hole in it so that you can push forward on the striker. Then mount the gun in a vise, run a dial indicator down the barrel flush against the breachface over the firing pin hole, then push forward on the striker with a pin punch. If the firing pin is not blocked it will move forward extending thru the breachface and you will see it with the dial indicator. Plus with the trigger held further back you are perloading the striker and mechncially limiting the froward movement of the striker by the trigger bar. The trick is making a pretravel limiter that doesn't have any flex in it so that it holds the striker rearward and prevents it from moving forward if the weapon is struck on the muzzle. How to test the trigger safety lever? Push rearward on the trigger without depressing the safety lever. Not sure what area you are in but if you know someone in the So California area have them get in touch with me and we can arrange for them to test the trigger to their satification and report back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Hello Bob, Thanks for the info. It's good to hear that you have a solid technique for testing. You didn't talk about the drop safety. As I mentioned in my previous post this one is often overlooked. What I'm calling the drop safety is the shelf in the ejecter/trigger housing that physically prevents the trigger bar/sear from dropping down from a sharp impact and releasing the striker when the trigger is fully forward. Usually when take-up is removed by doing what you described the trigger at rest ends up further enough to the rear that the trigger bar is out of the factory drop safety shelf. Modifying the trigger/ejector housing to build a longer drop safety ledge is one solution. I've just never seen it all put together so now the "remove all takeup and not disable any safeties" has become one of my pet peeves. But again I haven't seen all of the professional gunsmith trigger jobs available. With all the talent in the industry I have to believe it is do-able. Thanks for the opportunity to check out the work. If I'm out in So Cal, I'll look you up. -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hostetter Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Mine are set up so there is about .045" of the step still in play. If you don't maintain that overlap then the guns are prone to doubling (or worse). There is no secret to getting the trigger right, but to do it right requires more work then most people are aware. Making them fairly light is easy, but making them very short, light, and crisp (and still safe) requires all of the individual parts be properly fit and within spec's. Thats the reason I don't sell kits for someone else to install............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 (edited) So I picked up a G22 from our own Chris Patty. I put Eric's grip on it (spectacular!) and then got some Dawson's to replace the horrible stock sights (thanks again Cy). I've resolved that I need to do a major trigger job on it and will add either a Dawson, SJC or THE magwell (suggestions appreciated). However, after that, I guess a SS or tungsten guide rod (non-captured), maybe a lighter recoil spring (like 13#), what else? I can do grip mods myself. I'll grind the finger grooves off, but how high can I go under the trigger guard 'til I hit mag release? Thanks in advance. Rich ETA: Any place where I can learn to do some of this work myself? Also...how in the hell do you remove these sights? Edited November 11, 2006 by uscbigdawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaJoe Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 (edited) Not a master but here's what I run. Production G22 CGR Race Cut Hienie sights liberal amounts of grip tape RS trigger kit stainless g/r with 13lb ISMI spring Limited and L-10 G22 Barsto Barrel CGR race cut Hienies liberal amounts of grip tape undercut trigger guard RS trigger kit stainless g/r with 13lb ISMI spring THE brass magwell Arredondo extensions Guns runs great when I do my part. Who would have thought mag springs go bad? Joe Edited November 12, 2006 by ParaJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Not Master yet, but I will be soon! G34 w/ Eric's masterful grip tape THE tungsten guide or and 12 lbs spring Dawson front and Heinie rear RS Trigger kit and Lone Wolf overtravel stop I've been kicking around the idea of Vaneks drop in kit, but I could make 2000 rounds for the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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