TruStreet Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 If everything works out with Mrs. Santa, I will be getting a Dillon XL-650 for Christmas. In preparation for this present I'm building this bench. The bench top will be a solid core door 1 3/4" thick (made of Mahogany). A friend thats been reloading for several years suggested that I put a 2 ft sq. piece of metal at least 1/8" thick on the bench top. He said this is to keep it from splintering. Do you guys feel I need this? The frame is made out of 2X4s. bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman33_99 Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 My bench is a solid core door (not Mahogany, bet it will look nice), and I have not had any problems. Slight splintering when the drill came out the other side, but that can easily be fixed by putting a backing board under when you drill. I think a steel plate is definate overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Have you been to The Gallery. If you have several HOURS you can look at a Bunch of em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 A friend thats been reloading for several years suggested that I put a 2 ft sq. piece of metal at least 1/8" thick on the bench top. Sounds like overkill... I have 3 different presses all mounted to 3/4 plywood, but that's only so I can move them easily. It seems my RCBS single stage moved the workbench more than any of the Dillons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiG Lady Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Steel sounds like overkill to me, too! What ARE you planning to DO with that much reinforcement??!! Ditto what Merlin said... We have a HUUUUGGGGE, existing thread about reloading benches and workspaces that was started some many moons ago but is very current. Complete with dozens of actual photos of our "spaces." You'll love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 He said this is to keep it from splintering. The only reason that I would worry about it is if I was going to rehang the door and I was concerned about how "pretty" the 4 holes would look. If the door splinters then the washer will cover it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moruger Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Having worked in the high exsplosives industry for 20 + years .I can say that steel and powder dont mix.I try to keep my bench all alum. or plastic on top.or just plain wood with good coat of paint.Take a look at the above mentioned sites and threads.Learn from the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRT Driver Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Mine is an old counter top. Craftsman makes a pretty slick workbench that looks like it would work well. I think its part of their new modular self line etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokshwn Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 You definitely do not need the steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twix Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 No(to the steel). If there is any area to go overkill it is in the solid mounting of the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 I just tore my bench and press down (moving it..so why not). I am going to see about adding a steel plate. My bench top is MDF...seems like it has got a bit spongy on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterj Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 if you plan on using all three drawers, be sure to use the strong mount. it will also help to spread the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 The strong mt is almost a must have and it spreads the load over enough area that steel is not needed. Enjoy the 650.------Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 If you have a mushy surface... instead of steel: You might look at some good Baltic Birch plywood (also found under Marine, Finnish, and Russian). Or, make a buther block type top with maple or some other hardwood. I used 3/4 hard maple gluded side-to-side. Guaranteed not to be mushy. And you might look at adding more underbracing.. I have maple bench top, then each press is on a peice of plywood to move around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman33_99 Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 I just tore my bench and press down (moving it..so why not).I am going to see about adding a steel plate. My bench top is MDF...seems like it has got a bit spongy on me. Go to lowes or Home Depot or whatever is nearby. They will almsot give away a scratch n dent/or floor demo model solid core or steel door. Makes a great bench top. I paid $10 for mine. Travis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Larry Cazes Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 As already stated, the steel plate is OVERKILL. My 550B has been mounted directly to 3/4" particle board for 2 years now with zero problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doggorloader Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 I found the best IMHO long term surface for my presses was to make my own "countertop" It takes a little work. It's made from double thickness 3/4" high density particle board glued and screwed together. Edge it with your favorite hardwood trim and contact cement down an oversize piece of "formica" type laminite. Use a router to trim off the excess and your are good to go. Spongy won't even come in to your mind. Depending on the size how to move it will. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiG Lady Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Mine's 1"x12" clearheart fir bolted right to the wall. Not going anywhere. Doesn't budge a millimeter in any direction. Not as heavy as steel plate either, and is designed to be disassembled quickly and reassembled elsewhere. ...or, as Doggorloader said, "...glued and screwed..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Bone Posted December 5, 2004 Share Posted December 5, 2004 Nope, steel is ridiculous. If you want overkill may I suggest the follow items/ideas that I used in the construction of my bench. - Use double layer of ¾ plywood for the top. At 1.5 inches thick there’s no such thing as “spongy”. - Use large diameter washers to distribute the load and eliminate splintering - Stay with plywood, as it will protect the finish of your weapons as you’re gunsmithing/cleaning. - The frame structure was constructed of 2x8 boards with 4x4 legs, attached with 16 lag bolts. The 16 lag bolts give you 4 per leg (2 each for the X & Y axis). This thing is solid as a rock. - Put some thought into the height. I chose to make mine 4 ft tall. This brings the reloading operation much closer to these old eyes and minimizes back strain. The only issue here is although you can load the brass feeder, if you want to look inside of there you need to use a step stool or remove it from the post. I’d considered making the post and feed tube shorter but after using it for a while I found that it really wasn’t an issue. Now that’s overkill….but very effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoTenX Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 If everything works out with Mrs. Santa, I will be getting a Dillon XL-650 for Christmas. In preparation for this present I'm building this bench. The bench top will be a solid core door 1 3/4" thick (made of Mahogany). A friend thats been reloading for several years suggested that I put a 2 ft sq. piece of metal at least 1/8" thick on the bench top. He said this is to keep it from splintering. Do you guys feel I need this?The frame is made out of 2X4s. bench You should attach it to the wall also unless the bench is 300 pounds. attach a 2 x4 to wall so you can then attach bench to 2x x4 . A solid bench is one of the most important thing you can do for consistant ammo and trouble free dillon. powder throw more consistant and primers dont get flipped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimWarner Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Front Man Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 I like the concept Time Warner! Get that baby anchored to the wall and it should solid as a rock. FM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derwoodski Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 So thats where those Devil 9 major loads come from!! Wassup man I thinks its time again soon. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'll have pics of the new bench up soon. With my short time left in NC, I shipped my 1050 in 38 Super out east and found a SWEET work bench at Sam's Club for under $200. Top is 1-3/4" butcher block and the frame is all steel. Includes leveling feet and is setup for one shelf. I should have pics up later today but it's definitely worth a look. I checked it out as my Dad (in CA) told me that there was a nice bench available at Costco (not in NC). Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdriver Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 If everything works out with Mrs. Santa, I will be getting a Dillon XL-650 for Christmas. In preparation for this present I'm building this bench. The bench top will be a solid core door 1 3/4" thick (made of Mahogany). A friend thats been reloading for several years suggested that I put a 2 ft sq. piece of metal at least 1/8" thick on the bench top. He said this is to keep it from splintering. Do you guys feel I need this?The frame is made out of 2X4s. bench Well I wanted to make a reloading and work bench. A very heavy duty one at that. SSSOOO, I took 6' 2 X4 and shoot them on edge, and nailed them together. I just keep adding till A had a table 3" wide and 6' long. I then used 2" pipe and 2" flange fittings on the bottom for lega. Usings flanges allowed me to adjust them were it would be stable. I then sanded the top smooth, and put formica on it. Moved it against the wall of my work shop and put an another 2 X 4 along the back edge, and screwed it to the joist. That thing will never move or wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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