What's the trick to chamfering the Black 38super 8 shot cylinder

[mrmetalweld57]

I've got the Brownells cutter. Would the cylinder chamfer with the tool if the hardened coating is removed from the hole edges?

[RevolverJockey]

I've got the Brownells cutter. Would the cylinder chamfer with the tool if the hardened coating is removed from the hole edges?

I tend to think it would; I assume the steel underneath is the standard stainless. I don't see how removing the coating would look any better than the dremel for the whole job. The problem is getting the job done professionaly is around $75. The tool I already own is also $75. What a quandary.

[mrmetalweld57]

May have to just jump in and give it a try. Good thing I own a welding supply company, I may have to weld it back up, lol.

[Gregg K]

I've got the Brownells cutter. Would the cylinder chamfer with the tool if the hardened coating is removed from the hole edges?

I have not cut one of the black cylinders but the Ti cylinders are very hard to cut with the Brownell's tool too but if you use a dremel to remove the coating the tool cuts easily after word. If you are not real comfortable doing it all with a dremel you should be able to start it with the dremel and clean it up with the Brownell's tool if you like.

[alecmc]

I've got the Brownells cutter. Would the cylinder chamfer with the tool if the hardened coating is removed from the hole edges?

Well, the tool is designed to complete this specific job, so yes - it'll work... It takes a bit of downward pressure at first to get it started. use lots of CUTTING OIL as well.

I put the cylinder in a padded vice and work with it like that.

[seanc]

I've got the Brownells cutter. Would the cylinder chamfer with the tool if the hardened coating is removed from the hole edges?

I tend to think it would; I assume the steel underneath is the standard stainless. I don't see how removing the coating would look any better than the dremel for the whole job. The problem is getting the job done professionaly is around $75. The tool I already own is also $75. What a quandary.

Quandry.

I often look at cost of tools do do it myself vs sending it out. The tools typically cost a little less or possible much less than the job costs from a smith.

However in this example...

Cost of tool $75

Cost of experience using this tool ???

Cost of replacing destroyed part ???

[RevolverJockey]

I see 4 options.

1) I use the tool and it works out fine. Free

2) I sent it out and have someone else do it and am more than likely satisfied with the amount of chamfer. $75

3) I do it myself and ruin my tool which has to be replaced then I still have to pay to get it finished. $150

4) I ruin the tool and the cylinder and I am not sure if there are even replacement cylinders out there. $75+$???

Lee

Edited November 27, 2013 by RevolverJockey

[toothguy]

I see 4 options.

1) I use the tool and it works out fine. Free

2) I sent it out and have someone else do it and am more than likely satisfied with the amount of chamfer. $75

3) I do it myself and ruin my tool which has to be replaced then I still have to pay to get it finished. $150

4) I ruin the tool and the cylinder and I am not sure if there are even replacement cylinders out there. $75+$???

Lee

Option 2) send it to alecmc

[alecmc]

Ha, thanks tooth guy, but in all seriousness - it's not rocket science, if you have a dremel, and 3 dollars for the bit, you can do it yourself.

it's a 1/2 round grinding stone bit thingamabob, looks like a lollipop

this is it:

go slow, I use some wd40 to keep it cool and lubed, put it in a padded vice, keep the dremel vertical, adjust speed accordingly so it doesnt chatter, i go around half speed. go a little, test it out, go a little more.

after your done give it a nice polish with a buffing bit and some compound and clean her up , done !

Edited November 27, 2013 by alecmc

[seanc]

Ha, thanks tooth guy, but in all seriousness - it's not rocket science, if you have a dremel, and 3 dollars for the bit, you can do it yourself.

it's a 1/2 round grinding stone bit thingamabob, looks like a lollipop

this is it:

go slow, I use some wd40 to keep it cool and lubed, put it in a padded vice, keep the dremel vertical, adjust speed accordingly so it doesnt chatter, i go around half speed. go a little, test it out, go a little more.

after your done give it a nice polish with a buffing bit and some compound and clean her up , done !

I guess it depends on level of comfort. I get it, don't get me wrong, I am fairly mechanical most of the time, but rush and break crap sometimes too.

On a 38 super cylinder, which is probably extremely difficult to replace at best, I would gladly spend 75 bucks to have a gunsmith that has done a couple hundred of them do it for me before I went free hand with a dremel on a nearly irreplaceable part.

[Carmoney]

I am not what doctors refer to as "coordinated". Dremels and I don't really get along and I feel like I need something a little more like this:

Sweet gentle jeezus.....what a frickin' mess.

DON'T do anything like this. Way overboard. Good candidate for the dremel hall of shame.

[RevolverJockey]

I went ahead and tried chamfering a 686+. Feel free to flame. I would rather mess up this cylinder than my Super cylinder.

Lee

[alecmc]

Looks clean. But more importantly - how does it load ?

[RevolverJockey]

I think it does it's part if I do mine. Having never shot an 8 shot I didn't realize how much close the rounds need to be to the frame to go in straight. Even with the short cases, I think I will be thinning my BB grips a little. This revolver belongs to a friend who wants to keep shooting loose rounds. I think on my super I will go a little farther and double pin the star for timing. I don't think that gun will ever see anything but a moonclip.

Lee

Edited November 28, 2013 by RevolverJockey

[Carmoney]

I went ahead and tried chamfering a 686+. Feel free to flame. I would rather mess up this cylinder than my Super cylinder.

Lee

Looks just fine to me, Lee. No reason to chamfer them any further.

[mrmetalweld57]

Thanks for all the advice, ideas, and pics!!! Guess I'll get a couple dremel stones and give it a try.

Thanks, Ed

[eisenhow]

Ha, thanks tooth guy, but in all seriousness - it's not rocket science, if you have a dremel, and 3 dollars for the bit, you can do it yourself.

it's a 1/2 round grinding stone bit thingamabob, looks like a lollipop

this is it:

go slow, I use some wd40 to keep it cool and lubed, put it in a padded vice, keep the dremel vertical, adjust speed accordingly so it doesnt chatter, i go around half speed. go a little, test it out, go a little more.

after your done give it a nice polish with a buffing bit and some compound and clean her up , done !

I think they discontinued this tool #921. If you search for it on dremel.com it has a dead link. I stopped at 4 stores today (Ace, HomeDepot, Lowes, and Walmart) and nobody had it.

[Jaxshooter]

I did mine the easy way. It is "Carmonized". That cylinder is way past ugly near the far side of fugly.

[alecmc]

Ha, thanks tooth guy, but in all seriousness - it's not rocket science, if you have a dremel, and 3 dollars for the bit, you can do it yourself.

it's a 1/2 round grinding stone bit thingamabob, looks like a lollipop

this is it:

go slow, I use some wd40 to keep it cool and lubed, put it in a padded vice, keep the dremel vertical, adjust speed accordingly so it doesnt chatter, i go around half speed. go a little, test it out, go a little more.

after your done give it a nice polish with a buffing bit and some compound and clean her up , done !

I think they discontinued this tool #921. If you search for it on dremel.com it has a dead link. I stopped at 4 stores today (Ace, HomeDepot, Lowes, and Walmart) and nobody had it.

You're right, it slipped my mind to mention it, when I heard it was discontinued when I tried to order it from 3rd party site I called dremel up directly and bought out whatever stock they had, I should have about a dozen or so left.

They may have some residual stock left, give them a call directly.

I dont want to get rid of all of them, but if somebody really wants one shoot me a PM.

Edited November 30, 2013 by alecmc

[RussB]

You can still get 1/8" shank mounted stones from most industrial suppliers. Alec, are those 1/2" diameter?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#abrasive-mounted-stones/=pm0zoc

[4mike]

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146065

[RevolverJockey]

I did a Ti cylinder today.

Tomorrow I tackle the .38 Super. Wish me luck. Also, I don't feel like starting a new topic, but for those running a JM mainspring with the spur still on, what rebound spring do you use for ~6# trigger with all the normals (Fed well seated, Starline etc.)? I addressed a few small areas in the action and when I put the kit in and set the strain screw to 6# the rebound spring seemed heavy. I am not opposed to clipping coils if that is the solution, but I don't know the weight of the spring in his kit either. Thanks,

Lee

Edited December 5, 2013 by RevolverJockey

[EEH]

I am not what doctors refer to as "coordinated". Dremels and I don't really get along and I feel like I need something a little more like this:

Sweet gentle jeezus.....what a frickin' mess.

DON'T do anything like this. Way overboard. Good candidate for the dremel hall of shame.

Mans got to know his limitations !!

Keep away from my guns,,,

[toothguy]

I did a Ti cylinder today.

Tomorrow I tackle the .38 Super. Wish me luck. Also, I don't feel like starting a new topic, but for those running a JM mainspring with the spur still on, what rebound spring do you use for ~6# trigger with all the normals (Fed well seated, Starline etc.)? I addressed a few small areas in the action and when I put the kit in and set the strain screw to 6# the rebound spring seemed heavy. I am not opposed to clipping coils if that is the solution, but I don't know the weight of the spring in his kit either. Thanks,

Lee

Lee, if you are talking about the Miculek kit I think the rebound spring is around #14. The hammer spring and the rebound spring working together give you the trigger pull. I use an 11# rebound spring with his hammer spring. It would be better not to try to shorten a #14 pound spring by clipping coils and just buy a lighter spring. Put in the #11 rebound spring first then set the hammer spring. You can't go below so many oz. on the hammer spring (I have it written down at home and can tell you later).

Edited December 5, 2013 by toothguy

[alecmc]

I did a Ti cylinder today.

Tomorrow I tackle the .38 Super. Wish me luck. Also, I don't feel like starting a new topic, but for those running a JM mainspring with the spur still on, what rebound spring do you use for ~6# trigger with all the normals (Fed well seated, Starline etc.)? I addressed a few small areas in the action and when I put the kit in and set the strain screw to 6# the rebound spring seemed heavy. I am not opposed to clipping coils if that is the solution, but I don't know the weight of the spring in his kit either. Thanks,

Lee

Lee, if you are talking about the Miculek kit I think the rebound spring is around #14. The hammer spring and the rebound spring working together give you the trigger pull. I use an 11# rebound spring with his hammer spring. It would be better not to try to shorten a #14 pound spring by clipping coils and just buy a lighter spring. Put in the #11 rebound spring first then set the hammer spring. You can't go below so many oz. on the hammer spring (I have it written down at home and can tell you later).

I've got the same setup in my guns, Bang Inc. main spring, and 11 lb rebound springs, you can shave them down or trim coils.